240kconvertible

Yes it is, At this point in time it is in primer and waiting for the engineer to fit a 300zx rear suspension cradle diff & brakes, R31 front crossmember, steering and suspension, R33 front discs and a 318 chrysler small block stroked out to 390 cuin attached to a supra turbo gearbox. It is starting to cost a whole lot more than I first thought, but such is the car restoration & modification game. All donations to the convertible 240k fund are welcome You don't happen to want a free radiator do you?

Hi guys, As the title suggest I have a 240k radiator and the twin carby manifold with airbox which I'm giving away for free. They can be picked up in Maroubra NSW. The radiator is from my 1973 coupe and the manifold is off an E30 head. The air box is in good condition with only minor surface rust in a few spots. add a thread to this post if you would like them Cheers Andrew

What is the go with Phillip?? I have waited over 2 weeks to get a price for the overfenders to be sent to my place, I have had to call him 4 times and have had numerous promises of him getting back to me but nothing has happened. In the end I have had to organise my own courier as he is just too much of a numpty to be able to do it himself. :stupid: :stupid: His phone has run out of power on two occasions as well, I feel he needs to get his act together a little bit more. Also Kent the number you posted for him has one too many 6's in it it should read (0418) 567 019 I'll let you all know what the quality is like from the ones I'm getting shortly. Andrew

The tailshaft sounds like a nice little bit of equipment. I would be interested to find out what they charged you an hour for all that work. It will be nice to get the engineering stage completed as I've been waiting for 4 months already. The 300zx cradle is a lot wider than the standard one and I'm having trouble deciding weather or not to put the plastic flares on or flare the steel in the arches to accomodate the new cradle. What do you think? I was leaning away from the flares as the front wheels won't stick out as far as the rear ones will when the new suspension goes in and I get the feeling they won't fill the flares at the front without spacers.

So would I You should have put a whole rear cradle into yours as Trent agreed that $1500 would be enough for fitment of the cradle without brakes connected. I get the feeling he didn't take into account the arch flaring though. I'll probably end up doing the flaring of the rear guards myself and also the A - B pillar supports to save costs. I think that when they see the car for the first time and we discuss all the mods the price may vary. $2500 sounds a bit steep for rear disc upgrade though. The cheapest way to get it all done is to go to a welder/boiler maker and then get an engineer to sign off on it all. I wasn't happy to go this route because of the risk of not having the wheels in the right position. You'd be surprised at how cheap this route is. Do you know what they were charging you an hour? The price you've mentioned seems a bit high for the work you've had carried out. For example you can get 2 tailshafts cut and welded together & balanced from $250 in sydney and Hoppers bolt up kits from $1100 for brakes, at least I know that your happy with the finished result and I can go to sleep knowing my wheels will be aligned properly. . . . . . . . . I'll start preparing for a rude shock

Heh heh I know it's due for the bin but there are so many other things that should go with the head that I can't be bothered starting. There are 2 engines to get rid of, 1 x gearbox, 4 x lancer mags, assorted hilux parts, truck petrol tank, assorted rb30 parts and 7 rims & tyres. I really should list it on ebay with $0.01 cent reserve and get some other sucker to pick it up. In regards to the engineering I don't really have a price for certain yet, Trent didn't even want to start on it for a while due to other commitments, these being 3 x 180b rally specials and 1 x 240z rally special for a rally in Kenya. The job has grown quite a bit from my inital 3k quote from the original engineer who fuc&*d me around. I emailed them a list (check below) of what I want done and a price I'm happy to pay and they didn't seem scared and we're willing to take on the job. Although nothing is in writing and the start date is still a while away. List of Mods I offered $5500 to complete (1) fitment of 300zx rear cradle, diff, suspension and brakes. The rear arches will need to be widened, and holes cut out for the shocks + mounting points as well as 4 new mounting points fabricated for the cradle & tail shaft connected. (2) fitment of R31 front crossmember, suspension, rack & pinion steering. The steering would need to be connected - column to rack, crossmember & suspension made to fit (3) fitment of engine and gearbox Mounts would need to be made for both. The front firewall and tunnel will need to be cut to allow room for the gearbox bellhousing. I would like the front cylinder of the V8 to be in line with the front axle line. I have placed a bare block inside the engine bay and it appears that it will fit quite nicely. (4) A pillar to B pillar support bar fabricated (5) Brake booster master cylinder & lines + upgrade to hoppers style kit for front end. As you can see there is a heap of work to be completed and SWR has asked for 2 months to complete it. Summernats is now off the cards for another year sadly. When it's completed I'm going to ask Alfa for verfication on weather or not it is the most modded C110 around I'm quietly confident he won't be able to find one with more mods :classic:

I'm aiming for the same amount, shouldn't be too hard to get. I expect we'll be doing high 12's to low 13's with that kinda power. I sold an RB30 block recently for $200 the bastard only wanted the block so I still have the head ecu gearbox etc etc in my garage. The vert is now booked in for early september with SWR to get the engineering side of things done so hopefully should get on the road for summernats next year.

I can't look at mine to see as it hasn't been on the car for nearly a year now I do remember it not lining up properly as a panelbeater friend tried to line it up but was unsuccessful. We put it down to the convertible conversion and figured they stuffed it.

I think it's fair to say that I'm quite fond of this site if it were a girl I would take it away for a dirty weekend at a B & B

Hi guys, Ralph moore auto glass has failed to come through on his promised price of around $300 for each new door glass to be made. Does anyone else know of any other avenues to get new coupe glass for under $1000? Ralphs cost in the end to have them made up was about 5k for 5 pair to be made from scratch. I'm not really happy with just getting the glass polished as there are a few deep scratches in them.

Can you give me the address for the wreckers please I have to drive out there shortly so dropping in won't be a problem. Cheers Drew

I think it was called a engine degreaser gun but can't be 100% sure. It's a cheapie but does the job. http://www.wurth.com.au/MetalMar07SpecWeb.pdf check about one third of the way down the page. What you want is one like this but with the longer snout. I tried to extend one with tube but it didn't work at all. I found that you had to put it on it's smallest level of spray and then do a bit of each rail at a time to avoid pools building up. Timing belts are so much fun, I just did the head on a cressida and put the front cam seals on backwards. I didn't notice until a drive out to picton to go skydiving, when we arrived smoke was coming from under the bonnet. The seals have since been put on the right way. I guess this is what happens when amatuers do a mechanics job How much power at the wheels you aiming for Kent??

you could buy this http://cgi.ebay.com.au/DATSUN-240K-COUPE-BRAND-NEW-REAR-QUARTER-PANEL-NOS_W0QQitemZ170107293091QQihZ007QQcategoryZ102336QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem still leaves the other side though. I borrowed a mates welder and did the job myself, it has bonded quite nicely but took a lot of grinding back. I'm now bogging over the top to smooth it out.

Vote for Por!!! I love the stuff except when spraying it as it stays on your hands and face for days. Make sure you buy metal ready, marine clean and por tie coat. You need the metal ready to prepare the surface and the tie coat so you don't have to sand the por after coats. It says on the tech sheet that por sticks very well onto rusty surfaces. It dries from moisture and exposure to moisture only makes it harder and more angry . If you end up doing your whole car in it it gets quite expensive, so be prepared to cough up $$

If you'd like I can post the gun out to you or if your in Maroubra sometime you could come and pick it up and check out the vert. The really good gun with the long snout was stuffed by me so I had to replace it with a $24 dorrra job from supercheap (china) auto. It works quite well though and I even ended up spraying primer out of it as I couldn't get the industrial boat high fill primer to go through my normal primer gun. It will spray up into all of the rails fine and can even be used to spray the marine clean and metal ready. I used it and a garden hose to clean the rear rails out of dirt. Can't beat high pressure water. Seems like we have both been slack for a while. I was hoping to have mine on the road by end of financial. Did you get your body dipped or do it all your self? I ended up getting all the panels except 1 guard dipped. Made it soooo much easier.

Did you get your body dipped Kent? The floor looks nasty, like my sills were. My vert still hasn't gone to the engineer (and no closer to getting a strut brace). He kept promising it would go in in the next fortnight until after 5 months I gave him the arse. Don't anyone ever go to Cobra Craft engineering Ken is full of $^!#. I ended up booking it into Stewart wilkins motorsport following your lead for around the start of July. It will cost a bit more I think, but at least it should get done this year. I'm also glad to say that there is no more rust or rust holes left unwelded anywhere on the shell and it is all in primer with 2 coats of por 15 over everything.

I need the weather strips on the door windows for a coupe if they're still there. Cheers Drew

Does anyone know how many C110 coupes (not GTR's) were produced in total worldwide?

I find that video extremly hard to believe, Kingswoods handle like crap. You can see the driver takes a nice easy line in the Kingswood and then turns the others a lot sharper. Having driven all cars bar the ford cortina and owned a valiant, cressida and skyline before I can honestly say it's a load of s*&t. Although that cortina really did look like it was going to roll over. They must have put better tread and suspension on the Kingswood before the test and left the others on old crossply tyres to produce those results. The only car I have ever lost the rear out by accident, on a roundabout, in the wet was a kingswood wagon. In it's defence it drove over the traffic island like it wasn't even there as I was recovering from losing it.

He hasn't started on it yet as he has to get the engine fitted first before doing it. It will probably be done early next month, I'm not sure how it will be designed but if I can help you in any way with drawings or designs I will definitely send them to you. I'll keep you updated as it goes along Nigel. Andrew

I'm very close to getting a strut brace made up custom by the engineer doing the hard yards to my K, maybe we should get together and have a bulk batch made up??? I will be getting one custom made regardless of what happens as I really need it (no surprise here) and can't be bothered doing it myself. I will post a price my engineer (cobra craft) gives to me for the strut brace shortly. My vert should have been in the engineers shop by now but as they have been really busy catching up to the new year and I haven't finished all the welding that needs doing before it is finally ready it is booked in for the end of Feb. Fingers and toes crossed by everyone who reads this that it goes in in time. If I could produce a propper weld I'm sure it would have been finished at the engineers by now, but the truth is I can't weld for $^!#..........if I wasn't scared of being payed out for the next few years I would post pohoto's of the welds I produce, but thats not going to happen so lets just forget about it :tapemouth P.s I have an oxy welder in my garage (190 amp) that we can use but I don't really know how.

I too look forward to proving you wrong (fingers crossed) :paranoid: , it's sad how many pride and joys get sold as unfinished project, even if they are finished they sell for sweet F A. That Anaconda Torana that was on the front cover of Street Machine is up for sale for $40k in Unique Cars. What a waste of money, must have cost at least $100k to build. I have the poster up in my garage with the words "what not to do" written on it. Sorry for the thread highjack.

Can't post photos of the A frame as now the "manage attachments" button does nothing when I click it. Best pm me your email address and I'll forward some nice shots to you. It's obviously something on my end.

I don't know what's going on with the photos but 80% of the time they don't show up as the little thumbnail they come up as a minus sign and a few of them are always missing. I can see that there is an attachment on the thread but sometimes I can't access it or see it. Sometimes I post one photo and I can't see it straght away. It can't be my internet speed as it's 1500kb/s and It's been happening the whole time. When I can see the photos as little thumbnails it's all working fine but then 5 min later. . . . . drives me crazy. For some reason I can't upload photos anymore they start to upload and then crash just as they should appear. It comes up with the windows diagonistic page which says all connections are fine, I'm not very computer savy unless it's an online first person shoot em up so I have no idea. Pm me your email address Kent and I'll send out some shots of the modifications made to make it a vert or you can come and check the car yourself if you can be bothered driving to Maroubra. I have posted some shots on "attacked by rust" third thread. the only strengething done to the dash area was at the bottom of the A pillar with some plates being added. It's had two chasssis rails welded in then attached by a plate to the front engine bay rails and more plates to the rear. The heat gun won't do anything to the underneath except waste time but will get the sheets of deadening from the inside off fine enough, heat an area up then let cool off a little then you can just peel it off in big sections. We did an EH pano bottom with wire brushes while on floor trolleys it was horrible, make sure you get an old set of skiing goggles as they won't fog up as your working (took a while to work this out) all other types are a waste of time as $^!# goes in your eyes and you can't see what's happening. We did a bit of stripping the other day and the brushes that go into a drill with the red brush head (not steel and from bunnings), they seemed to work quite well and last a fair while. You can't beat the wire brushes though, get a few different sizes and drop the IRS, lift the car up with an engine hoist then chock up with bits of wood or steel bars (don't let any photos of you under it get onto the internet lest you end up in funny photos in the back of Street Machine) keep the hoist attached. Do the rear of the car one day then lift up the front and do the front half of the car. Make sure you have someone to help you as it's going to be a massive job by hand. We used chain and a home made massive A frame for the front and rope as seen in the photo for the rear. The farm you can see is my friends up in Newcastle, your right you can't beat the space or good mates when restoring a car. One of the photos shows the rear of the car hoisted up, in the back ground you can see the sand blasting equipment.

I have a problem viewing photos sometimes only a few of them shop up most of the time, it drives me nuts as I can't see what people are talking about. Can anyone help me with this problem? I can't even upload photos now for some reason. :disappoin