240kconvertible

And some more, thought I'd include a shot of my Bugatti badge, they are making the worlds fastest car, even if it is just a quad turbo'd VW W12 My friends call the vert the "Por car" now, as I've ended up doing everything in Por 15. Rust be damned. I can't describe how horrible it was using heat guns in the middle of a nice hot summer day to strip the sound deadening from the floor pan, take my advice do it in winter!

So all we need to do is get 12 people willing to buy a case of wild turkey each. I'd love a carbon fibre bonnet but will still drop my ratshit rusted bonnet off this week to get stripped along with the doors and boot lid. Can't really see us all getting this together in time. Engineers are booked in for mid Feb and the shell is nearly ready so that photo of the R230 in a 240k should be coming shortly Kent. If the engineer puts me off again to work on some cobra I'm going to cry. If anyone is upset about their neighbours making noise over christmas please direct your complaints at me, I turned two linked compressors on Christmas eve and Boxing day. When I heard one of my neighbours start playing bagpipes on Christmas day I nearly turned them on then too. Yes I'm sick in the head working an a Datto during Christmas but I just can't help it. I've attached photos of what's been done so far, they pretty much speak for themselves.

O ye of little faith or maybe your still reeling from the effects of Lachlan selling his beauty. I can honestly say that everyone on this site will support you 100% as I'm sorta doing the same thing as you and everyone has been more than great to me. I'm putting the whole assembly from a 300zx LSD IRS into mine, I've been told it's a R230 diff (1.4mm bigger than a 9inch) but I cannot verify this as I know nothing about them. I've attached photos of the IRS assembly, I bought it deliverd to my house for $450 AUD including 6 month warranty. With rough measurements it appears I will have to pump the rear guards 7cm each side :cheeky:

I'll check that out, that's for sure. Thanks for the tip. Do you know anything about the glass that has the blue tint in it? some people I've spoken to say it's a regular tint and others say it's made into the glass. I've seen cars get away with it on the windscreen........... now i think about it they were probably just show cars.

I've been quoted approx $300 each for new door glass for the coupe from Autoglass in Mascot, Sydney 9667 1933. They are currently making a pattern from my old scratched ones to send off to the custom glass manfacturers and if I choose to go ahead I can pick them up Jan sometime. Is this price reasonable? has anyone else had new glass made?

I think you should go and get your head checked out, you've obviously hit it quite hard recently. If by some foul chance you end up selling it for close to 10k please contact me before you go ahead as I would be very very interested in it at that price.

Sorry aarc240 I assumed it would cost more for carbon fibre moulds. I'd really like one but I can't see it happening it's just too big a cost for such a few bonnets. Epoxy resin is horrible stuff to work with, it and sanding drove me from the family business of boat building to a less dirty life of sales repping. If someone ever did get it going you'd have to sell them over the net and make about 50 to recoup your costs and time I reckon. First thing we need though is to find the perfect bonnet to start with. How long has it taken you on the engine bay so far Kent? the pictures look good.

so vefy grood engrish http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330057435056&ssPageName=MERC_VIC_RSCC_Pr4_PcY_BIN_Stores_IT&refitem=330053423782&itemcount=4&refwidgetloc=closed_view_item&usedrule1=StoreCatToStoreCat&refwidgettype=cross_promot_widget needless to say I bought one

Can't stop fantasising about a carbonfibre bonnet as we don't really have enough numbers to warrant building the moulds for the fibreglassing. I hopefully will be finished the majority of stripping/painting the shell this weekend so you should be able borrow the modified gun next week to get into the cavities Kent. As it stands i'm going to drop my bonnet, doors and boot lid into Redistrip at blacktown to strip them next week at a cost of $600 gst inc. $2000 to strip a whole car not painted though. I'll then cover them in POR before high build primer. The bonnet will be going to the panel beaters to get welded up the front passenger corner exists no more.

I filled up a whole in my K manifold with epoxy steel and drove it for one year without any problems at all. I'll post a photo shortly. It was a product called JB weld and was bought at a small auto shop in Australia. I'm certain this would fix your problem. Andrew

I should be finished my shell shortly, when that's done we will be able to take yours up to Newcastle and do the engine bay if you want. I also have a modified body deadner gun that you could borrow to get into the cavities, it works alright. It says on the Por instructions that it adheres best to rusty surfaces so I wouldn't worry about 1 week. I did a few test pieces that just had the rust removed by rubbing a hand over them and they came up fantastic with 1 thin coat. A copy of the bonnet would be great but it is already missing some of the front left corner. It's so bad I'm not sure I should even bother with it.... it has to be pulled apart to be fixed that's for sure. My bro missed the M3 auction at the insurance place so won't be bringing it into the country. He's gone and bought a M3 CSL now...surprise surprise I'll be aiming to get that over in a year. At least I can book the vert back into the engineers for the engine and suspension mods asap

I'll take the window strips that run along the top of the coupe doors, PM me your price and postage to Maroubra Sydney along with bank details and i'll transfer the cash straight away. Cheers Andrew

I also had a fun weekend using POR, did you manage to spray it on your face and hands? I seem to be very talented in that department and can't wait for my first meeting Monday morning. My bonnet is absolutely rooted with rust flakes floating around the inside of it, it's so bad I feel like getting another bonnet (this is actually the second anyway) as I will have to seperate the frame from the top to fix the rust. The bonus is that I'll know it's fine for 15 years+ as opposed to getting another and having this problem in 2 years. Aren't you worried about the inside Kent? I'm kinda considering just spraying por with the spray pot with flexible tip into the cavities and just being done with it. A few really rusty test pieces I por'd came up so good I feel like it would be fine to just brush the loose rust off and por without removing every spec of the rust. What do you think guys? is the bonnet worth seperating into 2 pieces to totally fix every spec of rust? I blasted the inner guards and most of the underbody and inside the chassis rails then applied two coats of POR. It looks really good I'll post photo's when the rear is finished. That's 2 full days spent so far just blasting and primering the body I can't wait for it to be finished. Sandblast the whole engine bay Kent, mine went fine (no warping) and was stripped and sprayed in a day with just me doing it. In saying that I will not be sandblasting any large flat panels from fear of warping.

If you want to go the whole way with POR you have to first spray wash it with marine wash leave for 15min-30min then wash off with water. Then spray on Metal ready leave for 30 min then wash off with water and dry straight away. The metal ready will zinc phosphate etch the metal. You can get away with only using the metal ready and POR, you don't have to get the Marine clean. It recommends to do two coats of POR minimum maybe 3 if it's a bad area. If a coat is left for more than 12 hours it should be sanded back. I'm really looking forward to spraying 4 litres of POR onto the vert. If you go down the paint stripper road on your engine bay keep me updated with the amount of time it takes to do. Damn Damn Damn I just read that if the area is sandblasted you don't need any marine clean or metal ready Doh

I got the paint from Vintage vee dub supplies in Campsie as a friend and i went there recently. They had to get the Por 15 in black sent in so I guess it was coming from PPC anyway. It sprays on so nicely and is a pleasure to use, the system still freaks me out though as you have to wash it with water just before you spray. I know it works but I still don't like it. I'll keep you updated with the progress on the PORing, I'll be using a modified body deadener gun to spray it into all the cavities which are all opened up now. We cut the gun midway along the shaft and put a piece of hose in between so that it is flexible and then start spraying and just pull it out.

Well I have finall begun the stripping and primering af the shell. I used a pressure pot sander at 160psi from 2 foot away with no distortsion problems but only in the engine bay. We tested what it took to warp a panel and it seems to be when the steel heats up it bends, we had it glowing red on a test piece. I found a heap of accident damage to the driver side front guard, it had been in a small accident but didn't affect the chassis rails. A lot of what you see i did by my self in about 5 hours with a heap of problems going wrong and only having a mate mix up paint for me. The blaster kept on cloggin as there was moisture in the garnet grit and the gun I was using was just spitting out paint. I will be using paint stripper to do all the large panels as I can't risk ruining them with the blaster. In the end I'll only use the blaster for the inside cabin and under body all other bits will be done with stripper or the hand help blaster. The small hand held blaster is slow as and is only good for the hard to get to spots. POR 15 arrives tomorrow. I paid approx $350 for 4 lt of POR 15 4 lt of metal ready and 4 lt of marine wash.

Heh heh thanks for letting my fantasy go for a while longer although I must add I meant the most modded c110 around. The one in the picture has been ruined with all the plastic fantastic, it would probably have standard internals I'd guess. Thank you very much for the book as well I am most happy with it. I just need to learn how to read japanese now.

I'll be welding them back up with plates so strength won't be affected. If your just going to drill into the rails just wash it out, no sandblasting and then coat it with a paint product. It's not the best way to do it but is better then nothing. A lot of panelshops won't even wash them out they just blow in there with compressed air and then just hit it with the spray.

I'll have a spare one shortly but it's rooted like yours and in Sydney. I've been led to believe that you can put a wrx lsd diff in bolt for bolt, I've only seen this done on a 180b sss though.

The powder is just another form of paint, do you have powdercoaters over there? My K has lived near the sea for most of it's life, hence the rust problem. I'm confident that it will be fine for many years after I'm finished restoring her though. To get into the rails to protect them you can wash them out (por has a product to do this) then blow them dry and spray a heap of fine mist coats into the inside. It was recommended to me to put a few nice drill size holes in them to get the spray in. If you go to one of the places that specialise in rust treatment you will see some body deadener guns with long rubber hoses on them to get into all the little hidden holes. I've just taken squares of steel out so I can get to it all 100%. After these have been welded up I'll have to spray inside again to cover the welds. You wouldn't cut them up unless the rust had attacked a lot of the car and opened up these spots.

It's funny you should say that as the earlier C10 skyline has a front end remarkably similar to the plymouth fury (i think) with the dip down over the twin lights. We all know the japanese like to copy the american designs i.e the celica mustang lookalike. I like to think that they (Nissan,Prince) liked the old Mopars and borrowed a few styling details, pity they didn't borrow the Hemi V8's or the smallblocks.

I spoke with John from Envirostrip this morning about sandblasting my shell. I wanted to know how much I would save by doing the job myself. He quoted me $2000 gst inc for a sandblast and primer of my shell. It appears I'm not saving much money at all by doing it myself and if I add in the cost of what I earn an hour plus my mates I'm actually losing money. I'm already at $1000 for primer, grit and petrol. All that's left is more petrol, food, beer and time. Average cost is $2000 to $2500 doing the stripping yourself, cost goes up a lot if he has to remove parts.To get this price the car had to be stripped and be just a rolling shell. John also blasts at low pressure 30psi to avoid any panel distortion. This he can do quite effectively. Also if you choose to get it powder coated he always uses an etch primer underneath. The only thing I wasn't happy with about his job was that he wouldn't get into the inside of a lot of places. http://www.envirostrip.com.au/ Address 3 Cosgrove Road Enfield NSW AUSTRALIA 2136 enquiries@envirostrip.com.au sales@envirostrip.com.au Phone/Fax 02 9642 7533 Mobile 0410620743 or 0433176796 I have attached a few photo's of my passenger side chassis rail, as you can see the long box section that goes into the engine bay was full of rust, the big lunch box size sections next to it were fine. The driver side rail had only just started to go. This would not be fixed by a sandblaster unless you opened up the rail for them. Can other K owners go and check the state of their rails please, you can get your finger into the big hole without laying on the ground. I'd like to know if anyone else is having the same problem as me.

I just noticed that it's a 4 door not a coupe, I'm not as upset now. It's still a shame to see what they've done, it could've been a weapon..............it probably is a weapon in someone's eyes :stupid: I didn't like that photo of the monster truck destroying the coupe..ouch Did you see the 590k skyline on the same website Camo?

picture didn't show up, is it just my browser which doesn't show up the attachments? http://www.c110-skyline.com/henge.htm that's the link scroll down and you'll see what I'm talking about.

I'm upset, how could they do this? And I thought I had the only one in the world.