240kconvertible

Did I mention that my family build boats? check out www.scruffie.com I've been looking into one of those little plating kits you see in the car mags, I have quite a few little bits like door latch etc etc that I want to do. Don't worry I'll compare prices before I buy the stainless screws, I like to save as many $$$ as possible. Can anyone get a cheap price on the plating kits? Bu Zamil my freind was applyng pressure repeatedly to screws not nuts & bolts, all of those came off really easy on my car... maybe as they were all off within the last 10 years.

We call it panelbeating, it's good to have a friend who does it if you like old cars. My whole light panel assembly came away from the tail section really easy but I had a hard time with those screws on the lights holding it to the panel, I got the first screw out with no worries. The second one I started to burr, I then invited a friend who's an electrictian over for "tea" in the garage and presented him with the lights. He proceeded to laugh at my efforts of removing the screws and took over the job. I was surprised to see him remove every screw including the one I had burred without any problems. I can now say that I've been taught to remove hard screws properly. What he does is push down really hard and work at the screw a little at a time by repeatedly applying pressure (like a hammerdrill but turning instead of going up and down). Many of you will already know this but a few will be like me and just try to get it going in one go (like opening a jar of jam). The only other hard screw I had a problem with was the bracket holding the front left brake line to the bottom of the front chassis rail, I had to use a impact driver socket and bit attached to a large breaker bar which was pushed up towards the bottom of the rail by a jack. It took about 10minutes to get this one out. Every nut, bolt and screw is now in individual bags labeled waiting to get replaced. I have no idea how much this will cost but they're all going to be stainless from now on.

Bu Zamil, I'm very envious of the price you pay for petrol, all of you should be driving V8's around at that price. No wonder the english speaking nations invaded the middle east. We pay $1.25 for 1 litre AU Dollars All your prices are remarkably cheap to get the work done, What is your average wage over there in US dollars? I think we're about 45-50,000 a year AU Dollars, not sure though. I could use sand but it doesn't work as well as the special grit (glass shards i think) that I'm getting. I want to do it in 2-3 days so the cost is worth it to me if it's going to save time. A friend just came over and read this thread, he reckons you guys would just park the car in a sandstorm to strip it back It made me laugh. I'll get back to you shortly with my final costs for the stripping and primering of the vert.

Yeah you don't want to know how much it cost to paint them, are you taking your shell back to metal? I did a short list for you but ended up posting it on another thread, i'm sure you'll read it. www.pistonheads.tv/clip1077 check this link you'll be able to see "my" M3 briefly in it. I liked the Lambo spitting flames in the tunnel shame about the smoke it's blowing though. My bro went on a cannonball run to a French Chateu.The M3, mx5 (why this was there I don't know) and the Evo we're the only ones to get through a roadblock that was set up for them. Everyone else had to pay 600 euro on the spot or have their car impounded. Robin said when it came to cornering at 110mph his M3 was somewhat lacking compared to the others. Oh and also the Evo was the quickest there on the day. It was a FQ400 souped up.

Thats so cheap are you sure your figures are right? wiring only $200?? What I'm spending approximately to just fix the rust and paint the body. $40 on grinding discs $50 sandpaper $150 sandblasting grit 1 ton $400 special rust paint Por 15 $300 etch primer $150 diesel to run compressor to sandblast $1000 paint materials colour/clear quality paint $300 sound deadening $200 food/beer for mates helping sandblast and primer the shell $1200 to have all my rust holes welded up by a pro $1000 last colour coat and clear top coat sprayed by a pro $Priceless the hundreds of hours I'll spend working on the convertible This is the cheapest I could get a good job done in Sydney, I'm getting trade price on all materials and workmanship as a friend owns a panelshop in Roseberry. Another friend owns the truck that will be transporting the shell around and also the industrial sand blaster and compressor that will strip it back, all I have to pay for is diesel and materials. You can't beat good friends when it comes to restoring/modifying a car. In regards to a chassis in a 240k I recommend it, I could get 1 back wheel in the air going up driveways and lift 1 side of the car with 1 jack in the middle of the sill. I believe my convertible is stiffer than a standard coupe with a roof, I have only driven 1 other 4 door but the difference was very noticible. My convertible weighs in at 1181kg with half a tank of gas, this was tested on a weighbridge prior to registration of the car. The main box section of my vert measures as follows 100mm x 50mm x 1700mm x 5mm thick lucky for me the box section wasn't touched by the rust at all, it was just the sill that wasted away. In my opnion Nissan should have at least put some decent rust protection into them, if you look at the early model valiants S-VC they all handle the rust very well VE onwards they all waste away. The VC was the last model that chrysler body dipped in rust proofing.

If your going to use it for parts over there and strip it you should also call all the wreckers in the yellow pages Australia wide and ask if they have any. This is a really big job and would be best if you had family or a friend to do it for you as it would take months to call them all. I'm sure most people on this site will keep a look out for any 4 doors that come up for sale for you.

go to yellow pages online put "metal plating" into the search section for business type, then put tasmania into the search section for area. 5 different shops should come up. Hope that helps

I don't understand what you mean Fesal can you get SkyC110 to translate for you

Check this link if your interested in importing cars http://www.dotars.gov.au/transport/safety/road/bulletin/importing.aspx#5.06 go down to this section and read on 5. Personal Imports - Part 8 on Application Form it's an easy way to avoid a few taxes bringing a car into the country. You can sell them after having them in the country for a day. I'll be landing it for about 35k max, I have to get a lot of the interior replaced as the thieves ruined it looking for the tracker. They thought the sat nav was it. I'll be doing the big sand blast and primer of the shell shortly, found even more rust at the bottom of the chassis rails where they turn into small boxes under the front seats. I'm fairly certain that this is the last spot I will have to fix.

I'm even more upset after looking at that link Camo. I'd love to put a SR20 Turbo into it and a set of 17's.....it's probably for the best that I don't get something as rare as that. Did you put the bid on Ebay for the GTR book Camo? I was going to bid and then noticed your name.

I was happily reading the Sep-Oct 06 (latest) edition of Unique cars when I happened upon a small article which left me a little bewildered. the article read like this, word for word and was at the top of page 39 -the pretty mid-60's Nissan Silvia 1600 sports coupe was largely hand-built in small numbers and sold in Australia for the premium price of $4390. Despite their high cost, some 49 Silivias were sold here before production ceased in 1968 after 554 cars, making Australia the Silvia 1600's largest single export market and enshrining the car's rarity and ultimate collectability. Shannons had an original 1967 Silvia up for auction on Sep 4 which sold unreserved for an excellent $7500. :eek: Now i'll be the first to admit that I don't know much about the value of old nissans or any other model/make for that matter, but this seemed really cheap to me. I was offered around 8-10k for my vert a few times while it was on the road and i wouldn't value it as worth half as much as that Silvia. What is going on here guys? How can a car which was made in such small numbers sell for such a pittance and how can Shannons say it sold for an excellent price? If anyone ever see's a car like this for sale can they please post details on this thread as I would've bought this Silvia had I known it was up for auction and had an idea of the price it would go for.

Try the tradingpost, here's the web address www.tradingpost.com.au they should have one somewhere in Australia

Nice work you have just solved one of my problems on the list that I wasn't even going to look at for ages. Did you ever look into how much it would cost to get them sent over? Also how much did you pay for your seats? that's another thing I haven't priced up yet.

Picture of the Vanquish won't show up, we all know how good they are anyway.

That's where Saddam hid them the whole time. Just think if they had searched the boot we would have a valid reason for invading another country. Anyway the picture didn't come up i'll try again. you'll like the Porsche vs Nissan one

I too thought about pulling the wool over customs eyes but for the sake of a 5 months it isn't worth it, if anything were to go wrong I'd hate to think where it may end. I can still collect parts along the way for the vert so my "Datsun 240k GL" fetish will still be appeased, in fact my current quest is searching for the coupe door window chrome trims I can't find anyone who will sell them. He's leaning towards the 911 then the SL at the moment but changes his mind daily, can't have the M6 as just had the bmw. He lives in little Aston and Aston Martin's are dime a dozen as well as Bentley's. I call it little Astonmartinville. My favourite Aston is the new Vanquish. pic attached

He's in England, Funny you should mention the RS4 as he nearly bought one instead of the M3. The reason he went for the M3 was that he really wanted the RS6 Advant but couldn't afford it. The M3 was stolen and then recovered later that same day, I now have to buy it from the insurance company in my Bros name and then wait till March to get it here. If it wasn't stolen I would have just bought it in March instead, 1 plus is I save about 10k aus on the purchase price now. He's looking into getting an AMG SL55, TVR Chimera, Porsche GT3 or some form of 911 to replace the tainted M3, whichever he buys you can be sure I'll bring it out here one day in a couple of years. He's quite high up in DHL and has to have some serious weaponary for the corporate carpark. Who wouldn't want a twin turbo V8 wagon from the factory anyway

I agree Kent, I'll stick with being anal and insist on having it in writing. Sadly though I won't be able to even get mine into the engineers until early april now:disappoin as I have to spend my hard saved cash to import my bro's 2003 M3 into the country. I have to buy it now and leave it over there till March after which he will have owned it for a year and can import it as his personal vehicle. I'm landing it for 35k approx I have to sell it straight away as no insurance company will cover me in it as I've lost my licence twice from speeding now. I can't risk anything happening to it. So now my C110 will sit in primer surrounded by it's parts for the next 5 months and the car I've spent my cash on I don't even get to drive:cry: I'm guessing that it will be on the road later in the year as winter hits now. Perfect timing for a convertible to be released into the wild.:stupid: The good news is that I will have more than enough money to finish her properly now, instead of buying half the required parts and putting it back on the road half finished. Also I now have a workshop manual for the C110 if anyone desperately needs any pages emailed to them pm me.

count me in.... How do I pay you? can you pm me your bank details and i'll transfer the cash

Awwwww don't tell me that I found it easier to sleep thinking my C110 GL was a GT, you've gone and ruined it for me. I might as well build a fake GTR now................except those damn parts cost sooooooo much. Guess I'll have to settle for GL.

Nice ride Noodle, good to hear there are some driving around Tassie. Has anyone got an idea how many are still cruising the streets in Oz in total? could it get to triple figures?

The engineer has to put the whole 300zx rear diff, suspension and brake assembly in as well as the front crossmember from a R31. As it's all getting changed I want it in writing that it will all be perfectly straight when finished. Do you think I'm being a bit of a wank about this? my mates kinda do!

So far it hasn't gone too well, the three other engineers I have contacted all have about a three month waiting list. Make sure you give them heaps of time or you'll end up like me having to wait to get it done.:disappoin :disappoin :disappoin I dopn't think mine will be on the road now until late May:( :( I'm meeting with 2 of them next week so will keep you updated, all 3 of them aren't too impressed with what I want to pay so I may just end up going with the original engineer. I'm making the engineer put it in writing that all four wheels will be in the right position (lined up straight and checked at the wheel aligners) or they won't get paid. All of them weren't too happy about this but agreed it was fair enough. Apparently no one ever asks for this.

I checked out the Rare spares site you directed me too, it has wiring harnesses there which are right hand drive. Is there any reason why you're going for a left one? I'm trying to keep as many of my stock gauges as possible but with led's as well. I have a guy in China who can change the standard lights to led but I don't really want to get it done over there. I'll post details on this thread if I find anyone over here. A mate who's doing all of my wiring ( it's all being replaced with new ) said that if your half intelligent, handy with a soldering iron and can read a wiring diagram you shouldn't have any problems with what your doing. I have my harness in 4 section now, the boot part, from the firewall to the boot part, under dash section, inside engine bay section. It all just clips together and comes apart quite easily (except for the two main harness clips they took me ages to get apart)

Does anyone know of a C110 coupe that raced at lemans? I seem to recall reading something somewhere about it but can't find any info. I haven't put too much effort into finding it as I figured the smartest thing to do would be to draw on the wealth of information members of this club have stored away in their brains. Drew