240kconvertible

If any one can help I still need the window parts and also a new steel dash facia if possible. Cheers Andrew

I'm still keen for a grill and carbon bonnet/guards, I really need the guards as mine are so fked out of shape I can't be bother fixing them . . . . especially as it was me who bent them out of shape sanding and welding them, when you totally root something sometimes it's best to just walk away :tapemouth

Your brother has done an awesome job on the arches., i'm pretty impressed with the end result. The sedan is a nice ride too, all they need is a set of rims and away you go. I'm all for seeing it painted black but it will look killer in any colour you choose even canary yellow.

Sorry it took me so long I have 5 x 3mm thick plates left at $5 each. I've welded one plate to the firewall and the another plate to the pedal mounting bracket for extra strength.

That looks like it's straight out of Mad Max, I love matt black. What colour are you going to end up with? How much space did you have between the top of the rear arch and the tyre? I ended up with quite a lot as seen in the shot but that is without lowered springs installed in the rear. Just wanted to be safe and drive it around a bit with 3 lads in the back to make sure of no scrubbing before i go the lowered route on the rear <a href="http://s660.photobucket.com/albums/uu327/240kconvertible/?action=view&current=DSC00825.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu327/240kconvertible/DSC00825.jpg" border="0" alt="rear arch"></a>

Post some photos for us Tyrone. Do you get out much in the car scene over there?

That's one sweet ride your putting together Gerry. You've done an awesome job on the arches. How did you weld up inside the wheel well to make space for the 19's? can you post some photos.

Hi Guys, I'm getting some plates laser cut to be welded to the firewall behind the brake booster and also to the back of the steering column support to offer extra strength. They will fit the new model skyline booster pattern. If any one is interested I can get some made up for them. I'm paying about $55 to get the pattern made and two cut, after that I think they will charge $10 each one they do. The reason I need it is that I forgot the column can be adjusted in the K and when you move mine up it hits the bottom of the booster, as I now have six holes in the firewall (two new ones to mount r34 booster) not 4 and will end up with ten holes when I drill the new 4 to mount the booster higher I figured I better support it properly. Pm me if your keen to get one. Cheers Andrew

Post some photos of your projects!

Haha your not allowed to make the slightest stuff up on this forum without someone taking the wizz out of you

The 73 I've got only had the two fuel lines running to the rear of the car. To bypass it I just put a bolt in the return line and ran the main line straight to the fuel pump. Should work a treat. I did have a problem with fuel fumes for a while though, I put that down to the fuel filler being inside the boot.

I ran my L24 without the return line hooked up. When I first tried to start the engine the valve was letting the fuel pump suck air up through the return line not fuel like it should. I just bypassed it and the car ran fine for over 1 year with no petrol supply problems.

What size discs are you using? are the vz calipers 4 piston?

Hahaha yes, that is correct, why didn't I think of that. For future reference to bridge the starter you need a small piece of metal, maybe a screwdriver and you bridge the two terminals on the starter so that power can run between them. This will bypass the keys action and get the starter to kick in. As you have run the wire straight from the battery to the coil the car should run with the key in the off position. Tyrone, does the car still start and then die when you give it some gas or is it not starting up at all now?

It will be a lot of hard work to repair those section as it is a curved piece of steel, without panel beating experience you'll end up taking a long time to do it. It will be better to find one without the rust. What kind of car is it? does he have any c110's in there?

I don't know the answer to the booster issue, it would be best to take your one off make a template for the holes and take it into a wreckers to match it up. Would you be able to bid on some mirrors for me? I could transfer some cash to your bank or paypal account, whatever is easier for you. Cheers Andrew

At least you'll have the stick to keep the back open when you find a new Z Also, a couple of people on hybridz have dropped the la mopar smallblock V8 straight into Z's with only a custom gearbox mount required. You can have mopar power and Z handling.

Hotwire it! run a wire from the battery positive to the coil positive and then bridge the starter motor terminals. If it runs you have a wiring issue somewhere between the ignition barrel and the coil.

Nice K Welcome to the club!

This Forum your on now is the best place for C110 info in Australia. The only flaws I see in the K are the rear drum brakes and not having rack & pinion steering, otherwise they are AWESOME!!!

That's a nice looking collection of K's you have there! I'm envious. The Ugly isn't as ugly as I had imagined it would be, maybe it's just that it's stored nicely without the usual kayak and bar fridge on top that makes it look good. What are your plans for them all?

Thanks Adzmax, I was talking about the front window:classic:. I probably won't need them as Kent might have a set for me. I'll let you know if we run into any problems.

Bruce, it looks like you have quite a collection of K parts there, would you happen to have a spare drivers side set of nuts and bolts to attach the window to the rails?

As the title suggests I'm missing a few window parts and would like to know if anyone has any of them spare that they would like to sell to me. The bits I'm after are the driver side brackets that connect the two rails to the glass and the plastic gromments that go into the glass which the frame that winds the window up connects to. There are 4 plastic clips which run up the two rails as well. All in all it's everything that is connected to the glass. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Andrew

You'll need a bigger booster and a 1 inch master cylinder to run the 4 pot r32 brakes. The suspension in the convertible is z32 rear cradle and r31 front crossmember. I'll be upgrading to s14 struts and lower control arms shortly to increase the front track. Can you let me know what the mirrors go for in Japan? Cheers