240kconvertible

Hi guys, I need some advice on what to do with my break booster issues. I have std z32 300zx rear discs and calipers and R32 GTR front discs and calipers and I need to sort out a brake booster master cylinder system that will work with those calipers and (hopefully) fit right onto my 240k Skyline C110 1973. You can see the original booster fitted to the 240k was a joke and I swear it took power away from the brakes instead of giving it. I've been informed that I could use a 240Z booster and a vertical mounting holes 280zx master cylinder 15/16ths ratio and that this would be a direct bolt on system that will work fine with the calipers. Does any one know if this will work? or if there is a better system that will bolt up? Also does anyone know where I could purchase the parts in Australia? I would prefer to have a 1inch master cylinder as I'm worried about a spongy pedal but I've been assured that the 15/16ths master will work fine. Let me know your thoughts. Cheers Andrew

It turned out that I cut the rear arches perfectly, when I lowered the car without the rear shocks/springs the wheels had 12 and 11 cm left to go before touching the steel. I expect them to touch the fibreglass arch first so they will have about 8cm travel on each rear wheel when the arches are installed. The rear has std height kings springs and the front has been lowered 1inch. It was sitting up more in the front after the v8 was fitted so only the front came down to bring it in line with the rear. I'll post some more photos of it when it has all the arches on.

A few more photos of the colour, one has the flash on the other doesn't. There is also a shot of the vert without the rear shocks or springs in.

I was after a more tomato red look to the car, besides I could only just barely spray a nice coat with a solid colour if I tried a flake paint I surely wouldn't have been able to get a uniform coat going.

my heart started beating so fast watching that video that I could feel my pulse in my lips, and I started drooling.

I need a drivers side boot hinge and might be interested in the centre console and wiper blade body's if they're in good condition. Can you get me a photo of the console and wipers? also let me know what you want for them Matt. Thanks Andrew

Yeah I'm spraying it all in my dusty garage and back patio, I wet the floor just before I spray but I still seem to get a few bits of gunk on every panel. I aimed to save $$ before it goes to the paintshop for a proper coat. Also now it has gloss I can see the spots that aren't straight that I've missed I've done alright for a first timer on the spray gun but it really needs 2 more good coats by a spray painter in a panel shop to look nice close up.

Your eyes would hurt even more if you saw these panels in direct sunlight I don't mind it but I don't like it that much, the car needs to go through an oven to give it that burnt look. It's just too bright. People keep on asking me if I've cut my hands as the colour looks just like blood on your skin, I've been thinking about dribbling some on to a note to get that full scare effect next shop I pay at.

I've just started spraying on the colour to my panels and wanted to know what everyone thought of the colour I picked. It's not the exact colour I wanted as I was unable to locate the 1969 Mopar colour Tor Red in Aus so ended up with Renault Rouge instead. I think it's a bit too bright for me but I don't mind it. Don't feel afraid to sledge my choice if you don't like it. It looks good in the shade but in direct sunlight it's just too bright. After spending 2 hours looking through colour charts I ended up just going with this one as the car will get sprayed in a panel shop within 2 years so it doesn't really matter too much. The spray job looks good from afar but is sooo very far from being good. I sprayed outside so it has a lot of crap in it and the spray gun was spitting out water. I had a water catcher on the compressor and one on the gun but they couldn't do $^!# against the Queensland humidity. I've left the door lock holes on the door as I will have a button there to open the door, it replaces the door handles. I won't have door locks on the car as you can just unclip the roof to get in anyway so they are useless.

Thanks Kent, how's your beastie coming along?

I called up these guys and they don't make the 240k 1973 coupe carpet, any other ideas guys?

If you can go to the wreckers I need a drivers side boot hinge asap Cheers Andrew

Do you have the rear panel to go with these lights Alfa? I'm also chasing the rear skyline badge. Cheers Andrew

The third link looks like it would do the job, I'll have to look into getting one as I still have a few hard to reach spots to spray into. I was able to thin out the 2k high build primer but to get it to spray it would be double th recommended thinning amount. I was using a 3mm tip on the gun. It doesn't matter for me anymore as nearly all the priming is finished, just a few little spots to get now. Cheers for you tips

The guy who's selling the blue one has bought a few parts off me before, he's a nice chap and has quite a few datsuns and valiants in his yard as well as quite a few nissans now i think about it. The blue one looks like an easy restorer compared to what I've seen and put myself through.

I haven't been able to get my high build primer or por products to spray out of any of my guns, in the end I used a engine degreaser gun to spray them on. It worked really well but would put a bit too much on or if you turned the nozzel down it would mist too much. I'll try using your method for the underside when I get round to it. Could you post a photo of what your set up looks like? I tried to search on the net but didn't come up with the goods. Cheers Andrew

I actually used a dishwashing liquid concentrate before the prepwash (not prepsol I thought they were the same) then washed with water then used the metal ready. I didn't mention the dishwashing liquid as I thought someone may have a laugh at using that. Guess I was wrong. It's not as bad as you think using por as an undercoat but it is as you state very expensive. You just have to make sure there are no runs in it as they cause big problems. If you use a high build primer you can cover the por quite easily but the runs will get you. With the tie coat your not supposed to sand it just keep it clean and apply the next coat of primer. I don't know why but the instructions say the next coat on top of por tiecoat will adhere better if you don't sand it. So all you have to do is spray por then spray tie coat then spray 2k primer and you have a very durable and rust proof barrier on the car. You won't need to pick up the sand paper until the 2k primer is on. If you live near the sea or are taking your car to England like me it is worth the money putting the por and tiecoat on. That way you'll be able to sleep at night knowing the rust monster won't get to your pride and joy again.

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/pc-10285-499-9605-evercoat-rage-gold-premium-lighweight-filler-112.aspx I used this and found it to be very good, it is yellow in the can with blue hardener so when you mix it up it goes green and is really easy to see when you have the right mix. It's really easy to sand and drys very fast, I had no problems with it clogging my sandpaper. I also bought some finishing putty but found it was harder to sand than the gold so it is still sitting in my garage. Make sure you beat the dent out or use a slide hammer to pull it out.

Are you talking about general painting or Por specific painting? I didn't have to use prepsol due to my car being sand blasted which por states is then ready for coating and all my panels were dipped to remove paint and any residue. The only spot that wasn't treated this way was the rear quater panels which were prepsol'd before the metal ready, was applied. In saying this I still didn't like the use of water at the end even if I know it's for the best.

So that's how it's done, I was filling in my door handles today and when I see that little bit of yellow under the por (visible due to sanding) I get worried about it lasting even though the coat has stuck so well it's takes a power sander to get through it, sanding by hand just takes to long to get through por. I wish I had of known this method to do as I would have liked to not have the yellow tan all over my panels. Cheers for the tip. I love a good thread hijack ilikemyz and zcarmannn seems to have forgotten he even started this thread. Let us know what you end up doing with your bonnet.

So that's how it's done, I was filling in my door handles today and when I see that little bit of yellow under the por (visible due to sanding) I get worried about it lasting even though the coat has stuck so well it's takes a power sander to get through it, sanding by hand just takes to long to get through por. I wish I had of known this method to do as I would have liked to not have the yellow tan all over my panels. Cheers for the tip. I love a good thread hijack ilikemyz and zcarmannn seems to have forgotten he even started this thread. Let us know what you end up doing with your bonnet.

You can only "spray" a light mist of 2k primer over the por while it is still tacky, a normal thinckness coat will stop the por drying properly and the use of most other paints will stuff the coat as well. Using the metal ready is a pretty weird thing to do as you have to soak the area treated with water once finished, it starts to get a little surface rust after the water has dried.

I would go and get the hood dipped and then apply por on the inside only, remember things rust from the inside out so if you have rust on the outside you can bet there will be rust on the inside which will just keep on going unless you treat it. If you do it this way you can guarantee that you won't need to do it again, I can't stress how important it is to get it right first time around you'll save $$ in the long run. If you use por make sure you don't get any runs in the job as it's really hard to sand once dried. Because of this sanding hardship it's mostly used just to treat the really rusty areas and not whole panels. I did my whole car in the stuff with the addition of runs and it has given me headaches on the large flat panel areas. Just use a good quality 2k paint for the outside panels. Por really comes in handy when you are putting it over areas that still have rust on them and it states in the tech sheet that it will bond better to a lightly rusted surface than perfectly clean metal. If you use por make sure you buy por tie coat to go over the top of the por that way you won't have to sand the por at all. If I could turn back time I wouldn't have done all the outside panel areas on my car, I'd just have used 2k paint and only have done small areas with por, this would have saved me a lot of time and $$$. If you dip the panels you will need to lay it flat and upside down while you use a degreraser gun to spray paint in the holes. You lay it flat and upside down so the paint falls on the top & bottom surfaces. Hope this helps

Yep, I guess your right I'm in crazy love, although I'd like to venture forth that Kent (Khughes) is a bit more in crazy love than me as he's just bought another one to caress late at night in the garage....every guy wants to have a threesome though