Znut

COZY Z COLE, Thank you very much for taking the time to point me in the right direction, much obliged. Znut

Ed, Found an old e-mail of yours suggesting you might have a wiring diagram for the 1978 280Z but couldn't find it on the sight anywhere. Do you have one you'd be willing to share? Znut

Well folks, I'm making a little progress, but I've run into a bit of a snag. I decided to pull the EGR valve to see what it looked like and wouldn't you know both the valvle and the intake manifold were alomost completely plugged up. The manifold was so corroded that I'm not sure what it is suppose to look like. So, I'm hoping one of you good folks have a good picture or can send me to a location that has one? Any ideas??? Znut

Thanks guys, another excellent round of advice which is very much appreciated. Let me have another go at it with the proposed testing and see what that reveals. I'm going to give the wire swap a try and see if that narrows things down any. How difficult is it to pull an injector and test its spray pattern and or is this a practical approach. I'm guessing its the injectors is why I ask, I took a look a the plugs which I recently replaced and while the ones in cylinder 1 & 2 were a little on the black side they were just bearly moist with fuel - I'd expected them to be very wet given the car had been running for about 10 - 15 minutes. Znut

To all, Well, I've made it through some of the recommendations you good folks have provided, but in the course found something a little strange and figured I'd see what everyone thought? Things I've checked: AFM: removed and cleaned terminal and checked flap operation - seems fine Fuel Pump: installed pressure gauge between fuel filter and fuel rail - constant 30 - 35 pressure. Pressure holds even when the ignition is turned off. Electrical connectors: underhood connectors removed, cleaned and reinstalled - no apparent corrosion. RESULTS: Starts better and no more gurgling in the fuel tank, but still falls on its face when trying to accelerate. NEW FINDING: If the plug wires are removed while the engine is running I get no result when removing the wire from the sparg plug on cylinders 1 & 2, but I know there is spark because if I put the wire end to a ground I can see it - also got a little jolt while putting the wires back on. Any new ideas??????? Znut

To all who've replied, Thank you very much for your inputs they are all greatly appreciated. I have a little time this evening so I'm going to attempt to perform some of the tests that have been recommended and I'll report back with my findings in the event that it can be used to assist someone else with similar troubles. Znut

Virto, Thanks a million for the for the feedback it is very much appreciated. Any ideas about the gurgling in the gas tank? At one point I did integrate a pressure gauge in the fuel line just past the fuel filter and it seemed to maintain good pressure - not sure this is an absolute way of determining if the pump is good though. Znut

Any advise would be appreciated. I've just joined your forum and I've done some searching in the archives, but have to say I couldn't find anything that specifically addressed my situation. Below I've provided a description of my problem and would very much appreciate any guidance you may be able to provide. My 78 Datsun 280Z seems to have a bit of a problem in handling its fuel. I have checked the fuel pump pressure which meets spec and I've ran fuel injector cleaner through it a number of times with little to no results. I've also changed the spark plugs, fuel filter, fuel regulator and clean the fuel tank. Here's what it's doing.... When preparing to start the car I normally need to leave the key in the on position for several minutes before the car will even attempt to start. Once started it will run fine for a few minutes and then it will start to spit and sputter. When I try to accellerate sometimes it's fine it smooths out and other times it attempts to die. The oddest thing of all is that when I have the key in the on position without the car running I can hear a gurggling in the gas tank - I have no idea what that could be, but I'd bet it has something to do with my problem. Znut

webdawg1, I tried to use the link you posted to download the "efi bible" per your post below, but had no luck - has the site moved? Thank you in advance for any asssitance. Znut You might want to go to the following url and download the "EFI bible" which will probably help you sort things out with the EFI. Will probably save you a lot of time and money if you use it as a general EFI troubleshhooting guide. Print it out and put in a cheap binder as you'll probably be refering to it quite a bit...might want to get a FSM (Factory Service Manual) as well, because you'll be needing it also. http://www.72hours.net/~zcar/

fattyjay22, I have what seems to be a similar issue and was interested to know if you found a solution to your problem. Below is how I'd describe my problem. Thank you in advance for any assistance. Znut ____________________________________________________ My 78 Datsun 280Z has been giving me some problems in that it seems it has a bit of a problem in handling its fuel. I have checked the fuel pump pressure and ran fuel injector cleaner through it a number of times with little to no results. When preparing to start the car I normally need to leave the key in the on position for several minutes before the car will even attempt to start. Once started it will run fine for a few minutes and then it will start to cut-out. When you try to accellerate sometimes it's fine, other times it attempts to die. The oddest thing of all is that when I have the key in the on position without the car running I can hear a gurggling in the gas tank - I have no idea what that could be, but I'd bet it has something to do with my problem.