DeesZ

as seen on a '72...

The attached may help with a rebuild/inspection. It was posted here a while back. Check it out. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17688

Picture as requested - hope this helps.

I like the look as well. There are a lot of options available to dress these things up. I have worked over a dozen or so - click on the gallery link below...

I just fixed mine two weeks ago, and it's all messed up again. I have much more faith in the Z-Home list found at: http://www.zhome.com/. Thank you, Carl for your efforts in creation and maintenance.

I ditto that. Be careful. If it flies off, there is the potential to damage the people behind you. If it's tethered to the car when it flies off, you'll beat the rear of your own vehicle to death (along with the spoiler). I don't like either scenario. IMHO I'd not put one on if I didn't want to drill holes.

I'm not recommending 20W-50. I do not use it in my 240 these days. You may wish to go back to the weight you were using previously to see if your problem backs off.

Curious, what weight oil were you using prior to the change to 10W-30? Back in the '70s, I switched from 20W-50 GTX to 10W-30. The car consumed mass quantities (and blue smoke was visible upon hard acceleration / deceleration). Back to the 20W-50, and there was no problem at all. Just a thought for consideration -

Harbor Freight sells a tool for u-joint replacement. I used it on the old Jeep more than once with good results - yet to use it on my 240, but anticipate that it will make the job much easier than without it. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38335 I recall the price somewhat less than now listed, but it was years ago & may have been on sale at the time.

The car is worth what the buyer is willing to pay. If this suits your wants, then you will likely be willing to pay more than many others, whose tastes this package would not suit. Not trying to throw a bucket of water on the campfire, but personally, I would be a bit uneasy about an engine that's billed as a stroker and has no documentation related to who did what, when, and how it really performs. If this was a documented Rebello, I'd feel much better about the price, but, unless I missed something, it is a pig in a poke. As Dirty Harry Callahan once said, "How lucky do you feel.....?" I would be tempted to dig for considerably more information before I opened my wallet. That's just me and my opinion, you need not share it, but it is in response to your question.

Welcome aboard, Al!! This is the best place I am aware of to learn about the Z-Cars.

My guess would be a mfg. date at the very end of 1970 or early 1971, likely sold as a 1971. If the data plate is still on the car, the date of mfg. should be noted there. Welcome to another Pennsylvania resident!! I'm just an hour or two down from you in Millersburg.....

I have used, with great results, Krylon "Fusion" satin black. It's designed to adhere to plastic, etc. There are a few pictures of repair & refinish results in my gallery... I hope the links here take you to the pictures I posted a while back. This thing was broken and ugly prior to a bit of work. It shows the Krylon results on both sides, and it's the same type of material you will be refreshing. Hope this helps. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=21626&d=1202345518 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=21625&d=1202345518 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=21627&d=1202345518

AZ-240z related my exact thoughts on a remedy. IMHO it is least invasive and provides some protection to the surrounding area. I have had success using this method also.

There are pictures that can be found in our photos gallery that may help. I did a search on "flat top" and came up with this:http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/search.php?searchid=4460 You may find more trolling around there as well. Search function here is invaluable! (Just be aware that not all results are flat top carbs....)

Post a picture so we can see what carbs you are referencing. Are they the flat-tops (as found on most 73 mods.) I assume so since you mention 'all original', or perhaps round-top replacements which are very common? Either way, there should be many pictures available among us.

Nice testimony. Good service deserves it. I have had very good experiences with them as well. One time my wife ordered something for me, and in error she ordered for a 350Z, not a 240. When I called to inquire about an exchange, they apologized for letting it go out without questioning it because they knew I had a 240! They even offered free pick-up for the exchange part and free postage for the new one. Honestly, in this day and age, that is hard service to beat. Good service deserves being acknowledged.

Congratulations on your find and purchase! Welcome aboard! You will find the information you need here, with lots of it in archive. If you don't already have one, invest in a Factory Service Manual (FSM). It will serve you well for diagnostics and repair. Am I correct that you are not far from Fort Lee?

The easiest thing for you to do is to quit posting to the thread. He who has the last word is often not the wisest in the group. Further, I can do without your rude reference to developmentally challenged individuals. I prefer to use the word retard when discussing my ignition system.

I second that. 5/8" ID. Just recently replaced mine. No magic.

Many electrical gremlins were eliminated for me when I replaced my old battery cables. If they have any age on them, it is something that you will need to do anyway. $20.00 well invested. NAPA has what you need, just take good measurements before you go. They even have them made with additional leads for your ground and or hooking up accessories. As Stevef1972Z said, they will deteriorate "from the inside out, unseen...." It's easy to throw lots of money at problems like these only to find out that it's something that was discounted early on.... (ask me how I know).

I concur, Dr. Taylor.

Welcome aboard, Arnie. Wow! You're bringing up three new Z-car fans for the future! What a way to pass on some skills, and they will last a lifetime. And two Zs!! Way to go! Looks like you'll be able to get at least one nice one out of them.

What happens without a jump? Slow or no crank? I can tell you from first-hand experience that having a new battery does not eliminate the possibility that the battery is shot. The battery must provide you with both voltage and amperage to get the car started. Have it load-tested to see what's up with the amperage. I assume your terminal connections are clean and tight, and that your grounds are secure since you stated that you checked them all. Another often overlooked component is the battery cables themselves. I had a bad set that looked just fine. They were old and weren't doing the job they were designed to do.

Yep, precisely. Two-tone puke orange and white (which the factory rep denied they made three months after I bought it and the paint started falling off).