DeesZ

I got one of these, too. Excellent product and workmanship. Check it out in the "Products" area on this site, or click on this link: http://www.classiczcars.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=12&cat=7

Poindexter, thanks for the air horn pictures! They should wake up the neighborhood! Mike B, I'll look forward to the horn pictures! rtaylor and Arne, thanks for the input on this. If you ever get around that area with the camera, snap a picture or two. (I know it's not the easiest shot to get!) So, thus far there are at two paint schemes; flat black and dark olive-drab. I wonder, perhaps different manufacturers or lot numbers? Just wondering, does the paint on these cover everything front and back? I guess I'm asking 'do they look as if they were painted after assembly, or are the nuts & bolts bare metal as if installed after the painting was done?'

I wonder how my wife would feel about a third one....? I must investigate that.... Not a bad deal.

Over the last 45 years I've used the product several times, usually when I was in a 'pinch' away from home, or not welcoming throwing dollars at a marginal car. With the disclaimer that EScanlon stated, I have had fairly good luck with the stuff; most often I never had to do any more to the vehicle. I've also had the same advice given to me about it being a Band-Aid and to do it right. Never had any real problems afterwards..... zkeep us posted.

I've got a Snap-on blaster cabinet (made by Dee-Blast) the box size is about 44"X30"X20", and it's mounted on legs, with dual dust collectors, so it's a "stand alone in the corner" unit. I power it with a DeVilbiss two-stage oil lubricated compressor with an 80 gallon tank that puts out about 16.9 SCFM @ 175 psi. They are fairly well matched up with about a 50/50 work cycle for the compressor. Depending upon the media, the weather, and the subject, I run at pressures between 50 & 90 psi. I'm still looking for a ratty slave cylinder that I replaced on my '71, but it just won't surface... can't believe that I pitched it, pack rat that I am... I want to show some good before & after results... I found a really ratty looking 280Z brake master that I'll get to soon... Here are a few more before & after pictures from the other day....

It went off at $620. Not nearly the activity that I thought it would get. Wrong again. Hopefully that's the worst error I'll make this week. Wish me luck.

Yes, that is! Does this one belong to a member? It looks familiar somehow...

Poindexter, thanks for the information on air horns. I may change my thinking about that. The switch sounds interesting... any pix? geezer, I sent a PM but didn't get into the "increase my inventory" issue.... just saw that post, and am interested in doing so. Spares sitting around, folks??? AZ 240z, thanks for the additional information. This is not muddying the waters at all, rather trying to clear them up. We have the potential to find out the facts on this, so I hope that we do. That way I could do a refresh on these things that would be faithful to originality. It wouldn't be much more work, if any at all, to do it "right". You're right, there are certainly some fantastic 'originals' out there waiting to make a contribution to our knowledge base.... hopefully some will surface for us to see.

Mikewags, I'm open to doing just about anything in the cabinet as long as it fits. (Thought I'd so my grille today but got sidetracked... must measure to be sure it'll fit! It'll be tight.) Let me dig out some crusty master and or slave cylinders that I should have sitting around, give them a shot in the cabinet, and see what kind of results I can get. I'll post before & after pix then you can think about what you'd wish to have done. It won't be right away, but I'll get to it. Thanks for the compliment! We'll be in touch.

I've been considering something louder, too, for the same reasons. (I'll just box up the stock horns and shelve them with the 1,000 other parts I have sitting around.) What has anyone else done? I don't really want to go with air horns (at least I don't think so right at the moment) or ones that play "Dixie", just something louder.... Suggestions?

Thanks for the compliment, Geezer! I appreciate that..... have been thinking about how to supplement my income with this hobby, as I do enjoy it very much and have the equipment to at least start-up production. I've got to give some serious thought to how to 'price' a service, taking in to consideration making a good deal while at the same time getting reimbursed for the materials, other overhead (like long-run needing a new compressor, media, time). I have a friend at work who has started a business doing glass, stone, plexiglass, etc., but no car parts. He loves the work and it shows in his end products. He's got the equipment to make me the resists that I would need for creative work, so I wouldn't have that cost, up front, anyway.... It's a thought that I may pursue. I never knew what "clean" and "refreshed" meant until I got the cabinet! I'm certain others would like the results, so I may think about marketing a service. Anybody got any good ideas?

Mikewags, see the attached picture for horn location on the front crossmember. This picture is courtesy of Mark Brandyberry (mdbrandy) from an earlier thread post. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10496&d=1135869237

It would be sad to spend such big bucks and then have it crack on you later on.... I prefer the repair route as well. But, I own a 'driver', not a show car. Therein likely lies the difference.

Yep, moving on up. My guess is that it will come close to doubling that at the end. The last few seconds of this auction have the potential to be very interesting. I'm glad that I'm not in the market for one!

Thanks, Geezer. Hopefully more will chime in with the "correct color" issue. As for media on cast aluminum, it depends what you are starting with and looking for as an end result. For really dirty, stained parts, I use a medium or fine grit coal slag. It cuts nicely just about anything (also etches glass nicely!) This stuff is great for removing scratches, file marks (like those that remain after filing off some casting marks), etc. You'll find it marketed under various names, usually with the word "black" incorporated (e.g. Black Magic, Black Beauty, Black Diamond, etc.). Also, it's dirt cheap if you can find it locally and avoid shipping costs. A smoother finish can be had with fine glass beads. Often I will do two passes; first with coal slag, second with glass beads. In the blaster right now I am using a mixture of about 50~50% coal slag and glass beads. This gives me the convenience of being able to deep clean quickly and have a reasonably smooth finish (but not as smooth as glass beads alone). The picture of the blasted horn is an example what this media mixture does. I've found beads great for finishing, but not very good at removing (quickly) heavier rust, paint, etc. Coal slag is quick at that. Aluminum oxide and garnet are also great, but my sources make those prohibitively expensive. (If anyone knows a cheap source, please let me know!) There is also room to get creative if you have different media at your disposal. Here's a picture of a cam cover that was finished overall with fine glass bead media, then I hand cut a resist of a "Z" and hit it with coal slag for about three seconds.... I call it the 'ghost Z'. I am looking for a good source of graphics for additional potential etchings, as a friend of mine has a plotter set up to cut resist material from good digital images (this will save me a ton of time with the X-acto knives!). This one was done by transferring the image (pencil etching) from the "Z" on the hatch of my '72, so it's an 'authentic' shape/font. Generally I finalize everything with a coat of hi-temp clear coat. This mutes the 'sparkle' that you'll have after blasting and darkens thing up a bit, but the surface won't pick up stains and dirt nearly as quickly. There are other pictures of my tinkering in my gallery. Thanks for your interest. I guess you can tell I enjoy the time that I spend at the media cabinet. I'm glad I got a big one, or I'd be out there looking to upgrade. Attached: several shots of the cam cover with the two types of media used. I think that this is a good way to show the difference between glass beads and coal slag media as well.... Note that the lettering and lands on the top of the cover were mildly polished with a very fine grit wet paper, and also clear coated.

Yes, they do get expensive... I suspect that this one may get even more expensive than the $600 range that it's in as I write this. This is the same guy that's selling the high number '70 mentioned in another thread. Here's the link for those that want to view:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140265812659&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fmotors.shop.ebay.com%3A80%2F__%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dm39%26_nkw%3D140265812659%26_nd1%3D%26_fvi%3D1

Thanks, Mike! Drop yours in Parcel Post tomorrow and I'll have them done for you next weekend! (Not kidding..... ) Does the semi-gloss black work for you? I am guessing that is how they came new. Can anyone verify that or tell me otherwise? Check out my gallery and albums for other items that have been cleaned up.... it may inspire you to send more than just the horns.

I was going to suggest checking the voltage regulator, but with a drained battery today, you have other things to address. A failing battery may have required all of the charging that you reported, and it finally failed. Or perhaps there is a drain that has caused a low (now dead) battery? I am discounting the stereo because you said that you "just" put it in. Simple things first: check the battery cables - are they cleanly connected at both ends, and are they in very good shape overall? Are all of your grounds good and clean? Have you charged the battery to get it up to capacity? If not, try doing so with clean connections and see what the electrical system does. If still a problem, you will have to start testing and eliminating components (or take it to a shop to have a diagnostic of the charging system performed to determine where the problem originates). Just my late-night $0.02.... I'm certain that others on the board will come up with some other great suggestions as well.

Welcome aboard, Jumbo Jet! I'm certain that you will enjoy 240Z ownership! Having full support of the wife is a component that some people overlook going into this and it can take a lot of fun out of the experience.... You got it and you're off to a good start. The advice to get the best that you can afford is quite valuable. Just a thought FWIW...... Since you plan to 'invest in it as you go', why don't you consider spending the upper end projected dollar figure up front, and pay yourself back over time. (Example: borrow from your 401K if you have one, and make regular payments back to yourself.) You'll end up spending the money either way, and many folks never get back their 'investment' in a restoration; they seem to get back considerably less than they put out when they go to sell (which translates to a bargain for the buyer). If you're not doing the major parts of the work yourself, it will get expensive to farm it all out. In other words, maybe you could pick up a great car at a fair price and actually save yourself a good amount of money over the long run. (not to mention having the ability to drive and or show it from day-one of ownership). Honestly, if I had it to do over again myself, I would take that route. Again, my 2c for what it's worth... If by the same token you really want to do the work and get the satisfaction factor out of it, I respect that as well..... (as a matter of fact, I could likely hook you up with a car that would fill that bill.....)