DeesZ

Hopefully some of these will help. (From several desk reference books):

I am looking to locally source the (four each) studs, nuts, and washers that couple the water pump to the water pump pulley and fan clutch flange. I have searched the archives and come up with no results (hard to believe). The car is a 05/1972 manufacture. The parts manual calls for the following: Studs # 08226-61410 - stud M6 coupling to water pump Nuts # 08911-10610 - nut - hex M6 Washers # 08915-13601 - washer-spring M6 Must I pick these up from Nissan, or are there good substitutes available out there aftermarket? My guys at NAPA drew a total blank when they looked it up. They are usually pretty helpful with finding stuff, and I find it hard to believe that these are not readily available. Please let me know what suggestions you have for finding suitable replacements (or upgrade if there is such a thing). I hesitate to re-use the old ones as they have been in/out more than once already and I don't like the looks of them any longer.

Hi, twsutt... This suggestion sounded good because I've had many older cars that worked that way. Got me to thinking that maybe mine weren't working correctly, so I checked the book (owner's manual) on both my '71 & '72. To quote the '71 manual: "The door will not lock, even if you push the knob down unless you shut the door. This is so that you will not possibly lock all doors leaving your keys inside." (The '72 manual states about the same thing but a little less clearly.) I still wonder when the change was made to favor creature convenience over lock-in prevention.... anyone recall what year?

This is an old thread, I know, but it came in very handy for a repair that I had to do.... One of my cam covers suffered from deteriorating sealant as described, and I tried the fix that was suggested with Permatex #2. So far the results are excellent, but I will have to report back later on how it holds up under use. Attached are some before, during and after pictures if you are interested. Before the clean-up and fix. Note the missing screw (which may have contributed to the fact that I found the donor car in a boneyard). During the clean-up (media blasted) Then reassembled and sealed up with the Permatex #2 (messy, messy stuff during my experimentation of how to run a bead, but I figured it out!) Thanks to all y'all who contribute your knowledge and make these things easier for the next person in need. If interested in how the outside turned out, see the pictures in my gallery.

Congratulations on getting the issue resolved in short order. My '72 won't lock without the key (or pushing the lock down from the inside). I usually think of this as an inconvenience of old school technology, but your circumstance has made me think otherwise. When did the Z-car go with the "improvement" that allows one to lock keys in their car?

I guess that all depends upon what the owner wants to do with the car. To some people it would be an important issue (like someone wanting to do a restoration), and for others, meaningless (an individual wanting a driver or to do an engine transplant). Personally, I think an original engine adds something, but the 'value' of that is in the eyes of the buyer when the car is being sold. The last Z I sold was a '71 with matching engine.... the buyer gave me the engine when we settled up. Obviously it meant nothing to him.

For metal I media blast (glass or coal slag, maybe both), then wipe down with mineral spirits, then clear coat with a high temp rattle can. Results are nice, and you can sometimes get a bit creative with the blasting and detali painting as well. Check out some of the pictures in my gallery..... http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=9676

Nice Garand! 30.06 rules in this house as well. Had the same hobby, but pretty much out of it now.

I got some bulbs at NAPA I think they were 4W (but I cannot verify that). The part number on the box is 53.......

Back to one of the the original questions in post #1, about "...what is the gold standard of valuation for, say, 240Z's? It can't be mainly ebay auctions." Honestly, I don't know where other than ebay you will be able to get a better pulse on what people are willing to pay for our cars. There is nowhere else that I am aware of that has the high volume of these vehicles for sale at any given time, and also makes the sale results available to us. (If there was, I think we'd talk about it as much as we all seem to about ebay.) As with most other items on ebay, some of them sell high, and some of them sell low, and that's based largely upon who wants them at any given time.... and it's relatively easy for us to conclude what the average prices are for vehicles in various states of originality by looking at the auction results. Don't get me wrong here, I love my 240Z (and I loved the one I drove for ten years earlier in my life, but if I had the means, I'd be driving an E-Type or +8. I had a '65 XKE and should have kept it. I can afford the 240Z I now have and enjoy it very, very much, and 'affordability' is a large part of the equation that yields 'enjoyment'. If I was to hit the lottery, my dream garage would shelter a 240Z or two, in addition to an E-Type, an A-H 100-6, a '65 Chevelle Super Sport, a TR-3, a TD, MGA, and a Morgan Plus 8, and a 442.......... but I dream. 'Til then I will be content with my '72 driver.

As Carl stated, the whole thing is a function of supply and demand.... very basic economics. If there comes a time when people with deep pockets start chasing our cars, then the prices will increase. If not, then don't expect them to increase much beyond basic inflationary trends. One must wonder, will there be much interest in these cars after we all pass on? Likely only with the cream-of-the-crop examples.

Some pictures may help us help you....

Read through this thread & you will be able to have a console that looks like new... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29404&highlight=jb+weld

Those are several odd issues in combination, bigoak.... I'm certain you are well aware of all of the "clean connection" and "grounding" issues, and probably have addressed those a long while ago (your car looks great, by the way). That 'no dash lights on restart' is an odd one. Did you fiddle with the rheostat dimmer a bit? And maybe swap out the fuse, but do the other things on the same circuit work while the dash is dark? The battery not at full charge is the easiest and first thing to eliminate in my estimation, as I've had some very strange things happen that were all cleared up with new battery cables (one of which was no start / turn-over after a stop as you describe). I did battle with electrical gremlins for about 18 months. The good magic happened when I replaced the cables. They didn't look 'that' bad, either, but they were old replacements that I decided needed replaced mostly for looks.... glad I did that! Anyway, there is probably a test that could be done to see if the cables are deteriorating on you... anyone? Please chime in. Of course if it is the battery not holding a full charge, then you are on the track another direction with the charging system (do you still have the external regulator, or did you do the upgrade conversion to IR alternator?)

I'm just going by memory, but some of the hoses look misplaced - such as the AB valve connection to the air cleaner. Also, are those dampers the type that came on flat top carbs?

The 280Z radiator is larger in length than the 240Z. I have had a 280Z radiator (no shroud) mounted in a '72, and it extends dangerously low in the front tempting road hazards, but it fits and functions (must use a different bottom hose). The radiator shroud for a 280Z is therefore longer as well. I will attach a picture of a 240Z shroud mounted to a 240Z radiator so that you can compare the shrouds side-by-side. The 280Z shroud might fit on a 240Z, but it appears to me that there would be some overhang at the bottom, and the side bolts may be a bit different as well. I hope the picture will help you with your search for the correct one. The shroud does IMO do a good job maximizing the efficiency of the stock fan.... I guess that's why the engineers put it there to begin with. Unfortunately the shrouds and belly pans were most often discarded during maintenance because they were in the way. Now they are becoming high priced items. If you wish to have any measurements, just let me know. Also, IIRC, it's not that big of a deal to remove it. I think all that I had to do is remove the fan/clutch unit, then in/out with the radiator or shroud. I can't see why I'd need to be removing it very often anyway.

The "hot - cold" method may assist.... Try heating the surrounding area moderately (not enough to burn anything or get anything even near 'red') with a torch and putting some ice on the plug. Expansion and contraction action should assist in the effort to loosen it up. I've had luck with this method with other applications and problems.

I met with the molding people today. They told me that "molding" would not be a good option for this piece due to size and thickness. I was referred to another fabricator who they suggest may be better suited to meet my needs with a totally different process. I have been unable to make contact with the new folks. Looks as if I am back to the drawing board on this for the time being. I will advise when I make progress. I'm convinced there is enough interest.

I have no dollar figures yet, but the molding folks got back to me with a question. What material should they be made of? I have no idea what would be good, so can y'all help me out here? The choices of common materials they use are: · Nylon · Polyurethane · Mineral Filled Resin · Thermplastic Rubber · Polyester · Polycarbonate · PVC · Glass Filled Resin · ABS · Santo-Prene · Acrylic · Acetal · And many additional types (of which I have no clue what they are yet) Can someone please chime in with some opinions on what the best material will be for a molded splash pan? I should be knowing more soon about costs and what they may recommend as a material. We've been playing voice-mail tag (which is encouraging to me, anyway).

Thanks, Kats! That is a nice selection of parts you have available in Japan. I just put an inquiry in with a fabricator a close distance from me to get an estimate related to the cost of local production in USA. If there is interest out there in the community, let me know. Who knows, these people I contacted just might be interested in working with me on this. Not holding my breath on this one.... We'll see.