Everything posted by DeesZ
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Car stalls - can't restart
Long shot here, but I've seen it happen.... check to assure that your distributor has not slipped out of position (loose, in other words)......
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Worsening vapor lock problem.........
That sounds like a plan. Mine is not far from yours .... although no electric pump. 05/72 - 84646
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Worsening vapor lock problem.........
I think that you are narrowing it down.... The electric fuel pump should have things squirting pretty good up front very quickly. I'd suspect an obstruction or failure of the pump. I'd probably start with cleaning up the electrical connection and ground to the electric pump. A long shot, yes, but easier than the next steps that require removal and inspection of parts... Please keep us posted... Hopefully someone else will chime in here with a silver bullet!! (As an aside, what's the build date of your Z?)
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Worsening vapor lock problem.........
Is this on your '72? If so, I guess the electric fuel pump was an add-on, correct? I'm guessing here, but your 'vapor lock' situation sounds to me more like 'fuel starvation'. #1 - The gasoline should not be getting hot enough from the tank to the mechanical pump to vaporize. I don't quite understand what you mean by "I removed the filter and there is no gas coming just from the electric pump. The pump works." If you are not getting gas, there is likely a clog somewhere. #2 - Yes, that could be clogged. Does your electric pump have a filter on it? If so, I'd take a look at it. #3 - My front filter often runs at about 1/2 or more full. If the car is not starting and the front filter is empty, it would appear to be lack of fuel. #4 - After an hour it will start & the filter is still 'low'.... so, fuel eventually gets there after sitting a while. I had two situations similar to this..... one was a clogged fuel filter (in a GM car), and the other was crud from the tank floating around and blocking the inlet. Generally, I would be seeking a resolution to the issue of getting too little fuel through the system, not vapor lock. I'd suggest starting at the back (the origin of the fuel flow) in the tank and working my way forward. FWIW, I have never had an issue with vapor lock with my '72. I hope that this helps.
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firing order with photos
Registering 1/8th tank of gas showing on the instrument isn't very much. I don't know beans about EFI, but before replacing anything I would first make sure that fuel is actually flowing, and at the pressure needed. If your tank has crud in it, the inlet or the filter in the inlet side of the fuel pump could be clogged... perhaps the fuel pick-up in the tank has corroded through and you are sucking air? Start at the origin of the supply and work forward would be my suggestion. The advice often offered up at this site is to start with the simple things and eliminate them first before throwing fists full of money at it. (Again, I speak from having a similar experience where I approached things from the wrong end and wasted lots of time.)
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I've Noticed Prices for Parts Increasing Quite a Bit... Have You?
Over the last several months I have noticed the price of some parts increasing substantially. I shop a lot on eBay and have seen several things skyrocket. Is this just a 'blip' or have others noticed it too? Examples of things that I've bought for '70 ~'72 Z-Cars over the last several years & what they go for very recently include: Radios: old price - $65.00 for an excellent example; new price range $150.00 - $350.00. Belly Pans: old price - $50.00; new price range $150.00 - $250.00. Radiator Shrouds: old price $25.00; new price range $150.00. I've also noticed the prices of the vehicles of the "daily driver" variety going what seems to be well beyond where they were stuck at a few years ago.... at least in some cases. (Glad I got mine when I did!) Are we seeing a dramatic change in the marketplace for these vehicles and parts, or is this just a blip on the RADAR? The "economic slow-down" doesn't seem to be recognized by Z-Car owners!
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Mounting a Radiator Shroud
My first Z, a 1972, came with a metal shroud. I THINK the earlier ones also had a shroud, but I could be wrong. The shroud and belly pans were often discarded because they were always 'in the way' when working on things, therefore most often these days they are missing on the cars. My current '72 came without either on it when I got it as the third owner. I did find a good OEM metal shroud on eBay for about $25.00. The parts manual shows several part numbers (one superseded by another) with interchangeability up through 07/73 (with no "from" date listed, I assume that the shroud came on all years.)
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firing order with photos
Probably a good idea to take a breath of fresh air at this point. Don't forget about all of the progress that you have made thus far! Also, you really don't want to sell it when it's not running, so, get it back on the road at your convenience and take some time to enjoy it! Just for kicks (and based upon an error that I made once), I must ask 'are you sure that there is enough gas in the tank?'
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Car won't start after tune-up
Yes!! And that's exactly why the picture was put there, with the hopes that it would benefit someone sometime. (My comment/response earlier wasn't intended to be rude...... rather to clarify what engine & year everyone was looking at.) When I use the search feature I typically get lost in the archives for hours. It's amazing what's out there.
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Car won't start after tune-up
The second picture is from a 1972 l24.... mine to be precise.
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Ethanol... why!?!
....just one more reason that I favor a smaller governmental role in our daily lives.... I really do not want the government functioning as my mommy and daddy making all decisions for me.... what you left out is the impact that this deal with the devil has on food prices (e.g. corn).... What the do-gooders fail to remember is a law of physics.... simply put, every action has an equal but opposite reaction. So many of these actions (laws) had a good intention, but in practice seem so ill conceived. Anyway.... just a "general discussion" opinion of mine and you need not agree....
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leaded gas question
My '72 runs very well on 87. Unleaded is all I can get anymore. I put some Marvel Mystery Oil in every other tank or so for some top end lubricant that I feel is missing since the lead has been removed and the alcohol has been added. I also use MMO in my carbs in the winter (3in1 in the summer). MMO seems high in detergents and also tends to keep things fairly clean.
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Help I need an oil pan!
I'm pretty sure I have several out in the garage.
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Front marker lights
Your goal is to make them as 'flat' to the surface as possible (if you were to imagine your Z-car as a box with 90 degree corners and flat sides). This way, the reflections (and transmissions) of light will be optimal in a driving circumstance. Soooo.... the fat end on the amber front ones goes forward, and on the red rear it goes aft. I hope that makes sense (it does to me, but you don't know 'me'). If not, let me know.
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3 into 2 MSA header
You can get a real good feel for the content of the book here:http://www.bentleypublishers.com/gallery.htm?code=G309&galleryId=1484 And perhaps actually a download of the book here (I've never used this service, but some folks say it works well). http://www.bushtorrent.com/torrents.php?search=&words=The+Scientific+Design+of+Exhaust+and+Intake+Systems
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No Electrical Power
Interesting... With 'nothing' working, I would be inclined to look at the battery cables first, or perhaps immediately after replacing the fusible links and cleaning up all of the connections. Mine (a '72) did this intermittently, and it drove me half nuts. The gremlin would come out of hiding when the car got warm... after doing an errand the car would just groan, or sometimes do nothing - very frustrating. Things got a bit better when I cleaned up connections at the battery, chassis ground point, fusible link, starter, and alternator; they all needed attention. The gremlin was finally eliminated when I actually replaced the battery cables. What a positive difference that made for everything electrical. I had cleaned the battery connections several times, so it must have been resistance within the cable itself. I actually replaced the cables for mostly cosmetic reasons, as they were looking a bit ratty. I guess you could say that I stumbled across the solution when I wasn't looking for it. I found great replacement cables at NAPA for about $25.00 (and they may have the fusible links on hand as well). Please keep us advised on this.
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History Channel show on the Z
I picked one up on eBay for $5.00..... It's interesting. Actually, when that thing first aired, it brought back so many memories of my first Z that I got motivated to go out and buy another.
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What is the best place to souce a 240Z 4 speed
Oh! So, so, so true.... You will be paying the piper one way or the other, and this does look like a nice car. Good advice, Carl.
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New shoes for the girlfriend
The new shoes look very nice.... as does the Z-Car!
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Yet Another Charging Issue Thread - '70 240z
From the FSM... Pg. EE-18 & EE-19. I hope that this helps. For some reason I am suspect that the battery needs a full charge or may be failing.... But this should help with your diagnostics. Post mere as you learn. [/ATTACH]
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Yet Another Charging Issue Thread - '70 240z
The part that you are questioning is to the best of my knowledge a condenser intended to eliminate radio interference from the VR. Part number 27984-80700, all same up to 07/73 mfg. Someone else please chime in here, but I do not think that this would have any bearing on your charging. I will shortly post the testing procedure for the alternator for you....
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240Z to 280ZX Disti Upgrade Plug On eBay?
He's still gouging on shipping charges, too.... Get one from Dave. I did, and have been very pleased with the results.
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Interior products of interest
The swivel studs are commonly used on old canvas applications... I think my old MGA & 100-6 both used them and I know for sure my old M38A1 used them (because I replaced a bunch of them...). Very typical attachment device for '50's vintage vehicles, and I'm sure others as well. Great for applications where a no-tools on/off is needed.
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phosphoric acid?
Phosphoric acid, if I recall correctly, is an active ingredient in navel jelly. It can also be purchased in various states of dilution at places like NAPA, etc. sold as aluminum brightner, etc. Navel jelly works well, but slowly, for removing rust, not 'converting' it to something else (as claimed by POR15 and other like products). So, depending on your definition of "kill rust", this may or may not be what you are looking for. And, yes, it is recommended that the acid be thoroughly washed away & neutralized prior to applying anything to the surface of the metal.
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Check out this Z
Not for me, but obviously it suited the PO's taste.... To each his own, and likely there are a few people out there that are getting excited about it...