DeesZ

I think if you research the topic you will find that dielectric grease is not a good conductor of electricity. Dielectric grease is often applied to electrical connectors (not the 'connection' itself) as a way to provide a nonconductive lubricant and sealer for the rubber/plastic parts of the connector. A good example of this would be an application to the boots of the spark plug wires so that they do not stick to the ceramic part of the plug.

A turkey baster from the kitchen would work also, but you better replace it before the wife notices it missing. Bonzi Lon Very wise man, Bonzi Lon! It takes years to learn the art of balancing the issues of auto mechanics as a hobby and domestic relations! Good tip on draining the fluids, too. Also, I have used the old-time method of a soda bottle and clear aquarium hose very successfully for many years - very inexpensive and very functional.

I did a Google of Z432 images.... Motor Trend published one on the www.... http://image.motortrend.com/f/features/auto_news/2007/9502809/112_0708_52z+1971_nissan_fairlady_Z432+engine_bay_view.jpg And this video shows a clip of the linkage in motion.... http://video.aol.com/video-detail/nissan-fairlady-240z-and-z432/1995574059 Hope that this helps

Thanks for the follow-up, Wayne... those numbers translate to Nissan part numbers for bolts. I'll likely pick some up from a dealer or MSA as you did.

Welcome to the joys of ownership! Post some pictures! Hey, and now you can update your profile and get rid of the "none yet" under cars owned! Perhaps we will cross paths... I'm in south-central PA. Welcome aboard!

A picture is worth a thousand words, so are these the wheels in question? Maybe this will help turn some up for you.

Hi, Gary.... I thought about the diaphragm replacement as a solution, but discounted it because all of the 'problems' with the oil seep seem to be between the diaphragm and the head. In other words, I was thinking that the problem/leak was 'before' the diaphragm.... does that make sense? Maybe I'm looking at the situation wrong or backwards. Was an oil leak solved with a new diaphragm by your club member?

I'd lay odds on it being an oil leak from the fuel pump (no, not fuel leak). Mine did (does) the same thing at the same place, and it took a while before I could track it down. Look at all of the crud build-up under and on the bottom of the fuel pump. Suggestion: clean up that area very well, and especially the bottom side of the fuel pump, until it's spotless. Drive it for a few miles and after you park it, run your finger on the bottom side of the fuel pump in the area under where the lever passes through..... I'll betcha you get about one drop of motor oil on your finger. I have not swapped out the fuel pump yet on mine and I get a drop after a bit of driving. I guess that the pivot pin area or somewhere around there inside is leaking and working its way through to the little weep hole/vent on the pump. This leak was discussed a while back somewhere in the archives and I do not recall anyone suggesting what a fix (other than another pump) would be. Please let us know what you find! If it's the same problem, then there are two of us looking for a fix (short of replacement).

Welcome aboard! Your sister-in-law is very fortunate. You are at the right place for advice; the archives are full of information and details, and the membership here is very helpful. Good luck with the project.

With some TLC and patience, you may find that the engine does not need to be rebuilt. There is a lot of information in the archives about "bringing back" one of these engines that has been sitting for years. It could be well worth your time to check into that option first. These engines have the potential to last quite a long time without needing a rebuild..... heck, in a recent thread here a member was having a few problems with an engine that had 300K on it. That seems on the high end, but the point is that they were well made in the first place. Following the suggestions in the archives here I successfully brought one back to life that was sitting for 19 years, and It runs quite well (actually better than my daily driver).

Don't feel too stupid.... I only made the suggestion because I've "been there".... I had a '52 Jeep that told me it had 1/2 tank of fuel (but it didn't). It's a long time and labor consuming story that I will not at this time elaborate further upon. Is there a fuel 'pick-up' tube in those tanks that may be corroded through or cracked? I think there is, but could easily be mistaken.... Someone who knows this year please chime in with a confirmation or correction.

With only 1/2 gallon of gas in the tank, how much do you think will be picked up and pumped? I'll be the first to say that I know next to nothing about EFI, but with that amount of gas in there, I wouldn't expect much with my carbs....

The manifold looks like an N33, just like the one that I took off of my 1973 (you can see pictures in my gallery). The rest of the set-up is not familiar to me.... Perhaps this is a collection of various early to late parts put together as an assembly?

I should get some of these too. Should I dig up the part numbers for the individual pieces to give to the dealer, or do they sell them in a little 'kit' as found on ebay? What has been your experience on that?

Is this what you are looking for? See part BO-56 http://www.zzxdatsun.com/

I just spent the last half-hour looking.... There IS a place that has them new for about $6 ~ $10.... but I'll be danged if I can find them again.... I need a new one as well, and I bookmarked the page (it's in there with the other 200 bookmarks in the Datsun Parts file somewhere). I should have bought it when I first found it.

http://www.nissanparts.cc/cart/?pn=79907E4101 Here it is at NissanParts.cc

Now, THERE is some fodder for a B-J Auction!!! Lots of these stories are just that, stories, but fact is some of them are true. I'd be spending some time tracking down the facts without a doubt. (I'd really hate to be the one who 'discounted' the story to find out later that it was true.) I'd also be talking to my banker about the possibility of refinancing my home, just in case. I have personally seen two '67 A-H 3000's on blocks, properly preserved, with 3 miles on both of them. I was with the guy when he bought them new back in '67. We got back in touch when he had a problem getting someone to put a value on the one that remains for insurance purposes.... seems there is nothing comparable out there to bounce them up against. It's things like that that keep hope springing eternal.....

If you've been starting the car frequently without 'running' it, it could be the most simple thing, and that which KDMatt mentioned first.... spark plugs. Pull them and check to see if they are fouled..... Knowing what they look like will also help everyone diagnose. Keep us posted.