DeesZ

Just guessing here, but I would not immediately think that the two issues are closely related..... I'd suspect for the clutch either you're low on fluid or a faulty slave or master (in that order). As for not being able to move the car, likely brakes binding.... try putting it in gear and then tapping the starter; hopefully that would pop loose any minor binding. Then you'll be able to push it out where you wish to work on it. As suggested, start simple things first by checking the fluid level and make sure there is nothing under the wheels keeping you from moving it. Then, before bleeding (and during) make sure that the master cylinder is full enough not to suck air. Please keep us posted with respect to what you find. "Starting simple" reminds me of a good friend who had no water flowing in the kitchen sink after remodeling the kitchen. He replaced about $1K worth of plumbing & had his wife doing dishes in the bathtub for two weeks.... (need I say how happy she was?) What was it? The screen in the sink faucet, a $0.05 item. I've done things like that as well....

Prior to taking things all apart, have power to it and give it a few whacks with a piece of wood (screw driver handle?)..... Very often they will start working, and in some cases there will be no more problems. This has worked for me on several Zs.

I've got two or three of them out in the garage... If you wish I can check to make sure that they match the one on my '71 .....

Well, left to the free market, the piece of unobtainium sold for - Winning bid: US $89.00....

South-Central PA. I'm aware of four HLS30's, and two of them are mine. Over the last 35 years rust has taken away two others that I have had. Is anyone aware of how to get one of those world maps up on line here so that we could populate it with little dots that represent us and show the concentration of members/users in all areas? Or is there one here and I'm just too challenged to find it?

The one I have shown in the pictures is metal, so I'm not expecting any major amount of flex. The point about flexing is a good one, although, and I'm glad it was offered... I was thinking about a non-metal one for another Z that should have one.... It's amazing what the shrouds do for cooling (at least in my experience). The belly splash pans tend to help as well.

It's interesting to see the comments about keeping the clutch fan come up. I came to that conclusion myself and am re-converting things back to a clutch fan with a 10" pusher as supplemental when needed. I'm happy that others are of a similar mindset. I will be using a relay for it as well. Relays were covered at least twice in the responses, and they are important. I would not run an electric fan on a 240 without one. Darbji is driving a '76 280.... and I'll be the first to admit that I am not very familiar with the wiring on them. I'd assume there were a few upgrades, but probably not enough to safely run a fan without a relay.

This should explain....

No, not the same four holes... Your radiator should have eight mounting points... four on the front where it bolts to the car, and four on the rear (side where the hoses mount) that are a bit more closely spaced together. Those last four are where the shroud will mount to the radiator... Check to see if you can tell what I mean. If not, I'll try to get a pix or two for you later... I have both a radiator and a shroud sitting loose in the garage right now... (actually about three rads! ... need one?)

Thick/wider at the top.... thin at the bottom. At least on my '72 that's the way it is. Where are the bolt holes on that?

I think the picture you posted has it upside down... you should find the fan a bit off center towards the right (with the extra space, if you will, on the left, and the narrow on the right). It's getting late here where I am... am I correct, folks?

Yep, not that hard of a job.... even I could do it. Do your measurements very well; as stated in earlier posts, a left side mount will give you the room that you need because the fan pulley tends to force an off-center orientation. Fan depth is important, as is the amperage. Think through the power requirements well & how you will safely supply it. I'm certain you are familiar with the differences in amperage requirements among all of the fans that are out there. A relay is worth a consideration - I recommend it along with the fuse. I ended up with an Imperial 16" (same as Hayden now I think) because the depth and amps suited my needs best. The dual fan solution is kick-arse especially if you consider separate circuits so that one or two can be run at a time to meet your needs as they change. All that being said, on my '72, I am about ready to begin going back from where it all began by re-installing a clutch fan.... and adding a Zirgo 10" pusher as a supplement for when conditions may require it. This will be coupled up with a recored original radiator (only reused the top & bottom brass - looks stock original but with a good modern technology tight-finned core), a stock fan shroud, belly pan (both of which surprisingly took a long time to find at a reasonable price - took the junkyard route - they are way to expensive on the open market like eBay), and a new water pump while I'm in there. I like to believe that the stock radiator shroud, splash pan, and fan w/clutch bring the best air flow for coolant and engine compartment cooling, and bring me a step closer to 'the way it was and I want it to be'. The 10" Zirgo pusher is my ace in the hole for hot days when romping or stuck in traffic, and hardly noticeable up front & out of the way. Please let us know what you do and how it works! I'm always interested in Z-car cooling solutions!

I'm fairly sure (but I could be wrong...) the owner had posted quite a bit here in the forum about this car.... from pre-purchase to repairs, including plans for his options to get it back to Canada. From what I recall, his purchase was less than what it was cracked up to be, and he's regretted not taking Carl up on an offer to give it a looking over. But that being said, he bit the bullet and gave it a proper fixing & also followed with some details about the repairs, which IIRC he put some of his heart & soul into. This wasn't all that long ago, and for what he sank into it I'm a bit surprised to see it up on eBay this soon... On the other hand, maybe this is a completely different car with some similar history... the one I am referencing was not a "near mint" car to begin with. $18.5K would require me to put a lot of faith in his work and abilities. I must say it looks pretty nice, but the definition of "showroom condition" is somewhat left to the interpretation of the buyer.

Well, this is the free market "supply and demand" thing at work. Sales on eBay never cease to surprise me. If someone does not buy it during this offering, they very well may several weeks later. There are likely dozens of these things sitting around in various states of condition. I think I still have one or two used ones sitting out in the garage.... but I can assure you that they are not in the same condition that the one being offered for sale is. If someone is finishing off a restoration, this would be a nice piece to have. The asking price - in my opinion (which is worth very little because it's not mine, nor do I want or need one) is very high and it gives me a chuckle. To an individual who wants or needs one, they may be reaching for their wallet as we discuss this. Anything is worth what someone is willing to pay for it, and the time that they want to spend looking for it will have a direct relationship to the price paid.

I'm partial to headers that shine... stainless or chrome. I've got a set of chrome ones hanging on the wall waiting to be mounted. I don't suggest a wrap unless you are racing. I've seen them after being unwraped, and it was an ugly sight of rust... Just my opinion....

If you are running nothing beyond stock equipment, the old 45 AMP alt is still marginal (IMHO). Further, the external regulators are an old technology pain in the arse. I swapped in a 280ZX 60 AMP internally regulated unit with one of the 'conversion plugs' with a diode in it (plug sold on this site - $15.00 if I recall correctly)... Absolutely idiot proof (I know because with electrical stuff I am an idiot). 15 minute job (pint of chilled Guinness included). Tremendous improvement - better regulated power and more of it to go around - lights never dim at idle, etc... I recommend the conversion. It's the most simple thing I've done to the car and the results are noticeable. Low cost / anyone can do it / high yield results with more safer better regulated juice. My opinion, anyway.

Thanks, Arne... would they be suitable with a Pertronix with stock coil & ballast (still connected as per Pertronix instruction sheet)? I have read debate on this forum about having the resistor connected, but I followed the instructions. Didn't upgrade the coil, either. Any opinion on that with the -11 plugs?

I looked at batteries very recently until I passed out. In agreement with everyone else, "Group 24" is what you want if you wish to stay close to OEM, and check your cables and post placement to decide on the issue of 24 or 24F. The following is my opinion and to be considered for what it's worth.... The only downside to the positive post facing the engine is that I could screw up with a wrench, etc. and there it will be to do me in. (I already have a few blue tinted wrenches from past escapades.)- maybe that is Nissan didn't put it there in the first place - I don't know for sure. I did not like the positive under the fender metal, but the hold down system is adequate to prevent disaster - I added a plastic/rubber 'cover' for the terminal, but ended up discarding it and am now comfortable with the placement and hold-down system. There is a full range of batteries out there with respect to quality, construction, warranty, and cost. There are also only about three companies who manufacture the bulk of them... Johnson Controls, Exide, and another I can't recall at the moment. I almost went with an Optima or the NAPA equivalent (O-9, or something like that). I dropped back ten yards after speaking to a few people in the business that I trust. They suggested that the key is getting a battery with adequate Cranking Amps (CA) & Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) and a GOOD warranty, and unless you have special needs or demands, don't let much else fog your decision. CA & CCA needs can vary depending upon where you live. I'm in the NE, so higher CCA was a consideration for me. A "good" warranty to me is defined as the period during which you can get a full replacement for it if it fails. I wouldn't pay too much attention to the number of pro-rated months offered because you won't get much credit. I was surprised by how few batteries come with a three-year full replacement warranty! Once reason set in for me (and it will be different for different people), and I considered 'value' (which to me was cost, available money, other wants, real needs/function for what I am buying, etc.), I ended up buying an EverStart Maxx from Walmart - 875 CA / 700 CCA - 3 year full replacement warranty; cost was around $65.00. Their 'number' is "24N". It fits very well in the OEM hold-down brackets, the posts are forward, with the negative post on the inside, putting the positive in the 'notch' that Carl referenced. This is also a great time to consider new battery cables. That replacement cost me about $20.00, I did that about a year ago (with the old battery) and that alone made a world of difference. Got them from NAPA and am happy with them as they came with wires fitted permanently on each terminal; the negative wire extends to the grounding point on the firewall without any problem, and the positive is there if you will be using any accessories that need a good connection at the battery. Sorry this got long winded, but it is something that I think is worth factoring in on such decisions.

NGK here... BPR6Es or BP6ES have been by far the best in my experience. I've tried them all over the years... The only runner-up was a Bosch Platinum, but the cost and 'almost as good' performance precludes me from using them again. I've never tried the -11 plug, but now that I've installed a Pertronix (on my '72 L24) I may give them a shot when a change is due. Thanks, Arne! Gotta ask, what's the -11 plug difference?

I've seen some nicer 'refresh' jobs than this one. As y'all stated, there are some obvious issues, and it is far from 'restored' (in my dictionary that leads one to believe 'returned to it's original condition). Also note the 'fitment' issues with the hood (uneven gaps between fenders) and hatch (sits a bit 'in' from the rear corner of the fender, and in other pix doesn't seem to be flush with the surrounding surfaces)... I usually don't like to pick at the cars of others, but the written representation for this one doesn't fit the visual one. Why would a car with 30K mi. show so many issues and replacements?

I agree with Beandip that there is "something else going on" in there. In addition to the good advice already provided, be careful not to mix the parts up from one carb to the other when reassembling them. In other words, make sure the same dome and piston go on the same carb body that they came off of originally. (A suggestion here would be to do one carb at a time to prevent the possibility of mixing up the parts.) As for damper oil, I have used all of the previously mentioned suggestions at one time or another - MMO even works well in some carbs, straight or mixed with your choice of motor oil. I have pretty much settled in using 3-in-1 oil for years to provide the effect of 20W, and it has worked well for me and my needs for normal driving. It also is readily available in the small quantities that you will need, easy to put in with the tiny little spout it comes with, and easy to safely/cleanly store until needed the next time you need it. Please keep us up to date with your findings.... It is the final resolution to so many problems that often don't get posted here....

Hi, TomoHawk.... They are handy little things, and have made some tasks really simple for my memory challenged moments. Speaking of 'memory', I have no clue where I got them..... been in the garage for a long time, but one set will last a lifetime. They come in a small 'book' and the numbers are peel & stick... They are great for almost any wiring project. Here's a lead for them that I found on the Internet.... http://wd.wescodist.com/cultures/en-us/Products/ProductListDetail.aspx?pik=22145&productId=22145&getyourprice=1 and another: http://www.electricsupplyonline.com/prod/gb-misc.php I suspect that they would be available at many electronics / electrical supply stores, too... Product Name: Wire Markers Manufacturer: Gardner Bender, Inc. Catalog Number: 42-027 You must grab your seat when the price pops up.... $20.+ per book, but they are worth it.

Thanks, Stephen! I have an inquiry in with him about a few things at this point. I suspect we'll be doing some business. Your suggestion and insight on this is greatly appreciated! John

Stephen, this is at auction on eBay... seller name is "blax240" location Nismo Heights.... The seller name hints at your description! Thank you for your feedback. This unit may be a solution for me. John