DeesZ

I do recall reading (in this forum, I think) about a misprint in the Haynes book related to firing order. IIRC, it was corrected for later editions. I searched the forum to find the information, but came up with no results. Here's a picture of a properly wired distributor on a '72 in case it can help you.

I think I am getting the idea - thank you very much for the details - I am electrically challenged. I did some Internet surfing last night and found this gem by Spal. Is this the answer (of course in addition to the recommendations that you have made)? Pictures attached. The description follows / price is about $25.00 USD. "This fused relay block works great to safely control your aftermarket fan(s), NOS, fuel pump(s), water pump, etc. The block includes two 12v/20a relays fused to a single 10a fuse. The block has provisions for up to 5 relays through 4 fused links. The cover protects the relays/fuses, while the wires cleanly route out the back. Eliminate multiple relays with one block unit."

I thank you for this, also, Nissanman! And thanks to Wingnut for asking the question in the first place. I've been considering relays for a fan, radio/amplifier, etc., as well as the headlight & tail light conversions being sold on this site. Your explanation makes the task seem like something I could do without frying my car (or myself). Taking the question a step farther, what recommendations are out there that would neatly 'consolidate' several relays and circuit fuses? When I do this I'd be trying to keep a neat appearance and an organized approach to adding the components. Any suggestions on location and equipment will be very welcome. I have a '72, and am running an internally regulated alternator, which gives me a bit of free space where the old VR was once mounted. What's been done out there to accomplish this? I'm sure someone makes a unit that will accept several relays, but I must be looking in the wrong places. Thanks!

Lehigh, PA... not far from Bath, right? (or am I way off there?) Not many Z-cars in the area, although I did just pick one up in Emaus.... If 'bad really comes to worse', I may have a sale and/or storage solution for you - about 2.5 hour drive for you on Rt 209..... where 209 meets the Susquehanna River...

I had no problems of that sort with my installation..... but yes, there was very little clearance as mentioned above - a bit less than the installation instructions called for if I recall correctly. I'm pleased with the unit and its performance.

IMHO it's the 1972. Thank God we have our differences in taste, or we wouldn't be able to afford the things we want.

Yep, what Arne said - ditto. It's a tough move from 35MM to digital - especially if you have a large investment in lenses, etc. - but if you enjoy photography, you will be happy that you did it. Some of the DSLR units are being made to accept the 35MM lenses, as well which takes some of the pain out of it. And having your own darkroom at your computer fingertips is simply fantastic.

I am not that well educated in this topic, but would an impact wrench be a suitable tool in this instance? The "hammering" effect has loosened many very sticky situations for me. Or is there a reason that this would not be recommended for this situation?

#305 still sits with no bids at a $10K opener & unknown reserve.... 5 hours remaining..... The 'free market invisible hand' hasn't gotten a grip on it yet.... Those last few minutes will be interesting (either way, bids or no bids).

That's $3,500.... 'reserve not met'..... I suspect the reserve price is much more than that, but it does get bidders involved when there is a low opening bid price. This one will be interesting to watch. I've been watching the prices on these for several years, and they sure are not going down.

You guys think it would look better in the factory grey than the black? Yes, I think the factory gray is the best option mentioned. It will be close to original, and in my opinion, by far the most appealing. Black would be a bit too much......

My personal opinion is that I prefer the original charcoal color. I have one original, and another painted the same color of the car, so I experience both every day..... If I put the second one back on the road it will be returned to a close to stock color. Again, that's only my opinion - if you really like the same-as-car color, go for it. Remember, it's yours, and your goal is not to please me.

I have been looking for a set for about two years, so I have a feeling for the price... The way I have experienced it, a real nice set without curb rash, etc. will likely be selling for around $500.00+ If you end up spending much less than that it seems that you end up buying a bunch of rash, etc., that will cost considerably to remedy (your time or your money). Actually I've seen them sell for about that much plus another $100.00 for shipping! Seems like the price on these has spiked in the last several years.... I guess there are too many boomers like me looking to have a set. I just got a real nice set of Western's with a whole car attached for that amount, so Libre's, as much as I'd love to have a set, will be taking the back seat until I stumble across a nice set that is priced to my taste. Good luck with that Arne.... If they are fairly priced don't let them sit too long while you think about it! Let me know how you make out. I'd like to share your joy on that find!!

I keep a hard copy handy.... I have enough trouble trying to figure out how to use the features on my cell phone, let alone a palm-thingy. Staying old school as demanded by my limitations (which at this stage in my life I can find no reason to overcome).

Not at all original here, but I use "the White One" and "The Red One". I did have "Goldie"... guess what color she was... Unfortunately Goldie has been reduced to boxed up spare parts in the garage, so I guess in a way she lives on. There is no question about them being hot-blooded females. They do like to be lavished with gifts, and tend to compete to see who can get the most attention, financial and otherwise.... And for some strange reason that I cannot begin to explain or understand, I enjoy doing it. (I suspect many of us here share that feeling.)

I have used the method Beandip described for years. A soda bottle and a piece of aquarium air hose has served me well for years on a variety of antique and classic vehicles. Although air bleeding back in at the threads may be an issue for some, I've never had the problem. I learned the method from the motor pool guys in the Army back in the early '70s.

What "size" would be of interest? I have a friend who knows something about this type of work, and I've floated an inquiry to her. No response yet, but I know the question of 'size' will come up real early in a discussion. Let me know how much interest there is in this as well. I have a background in printing, and from experience know that there is a better per unit price as the quantity increases. The majority of the costs are associated with preparation and set-up.

I'll have to let the experts address the left-side / right-side issue for cooling efficiency. If I am remembering correctly, you have more room on the left, but the air pump sticks out further on the left than the alternator on the right side, so "depth" is to be considered. I addressed it by putting mine into 'push' mode and installed in the front (which created other issues... they never end.) I will soon be going back to a stock clutch fan and shroud with a supplemental electric pusher on the front. I've concluded that the engineers had it pretty well figured out at the factory.... not perfect, and of course we have options today that weren't available back then, too. Another thought.... what is the amperage draw of your new fan? Will you have enough juice available to run it comfortably?

Yes, you must re-secure the pulley or it will come off with some consequences that you do not wish to face. It could just be the picture, but things look cockeyed with the pulley. Remove the belt to get rid of the tension on it so that you can get it tightened well in the correct position. Now is also the time to check the placement of your new fan to assure that you really have enough room to install it without interference from the pulley. You are making progress!! I should be out in the garage working on my cooling system too.... but it's such a good day to procrastinate!

Several for sale, but a bit salty ..... but if you need them, I guess it looks more reasonable...http://www.zcar.com/classifieds/index.php?method=showdetails&list=advertisement&rollid=39347&fromfromlist=classifiedscategory&fromfrommethod=showhtmllist&fromfromid=34&

My first suspicion would be u-joint. It's the most frequent failure back there from my experience, anyway, and there are several to check. Many failures that I have experienced began with a ticking sound that got worse. I've had several that developed vibrations at certain loads and or rpm. They can be elusive sometimes in their failure. How long has it been since they were replaced? Hopefully you will find it to be u-joints because it's the easiest and least costly of many possibilities. Please keep us updated on what you find.

Geezer.... Others may not agree or see the issue the same way, but I think you made a good buy on that compressor. It was a chunk of change back then, but look at what you got.... how many years of excellent service you have gotten?.... over twenty so far.... and it's likely going to work well for the next generation of your family. Ingersoll-Rand made a fine compressor back then, and there wasn't much competition from the Japanese and especially Chinese import goods. You "bought well, and bought once", and there is a true economy to that approach. Had you started small or medium and worked up the ladder to what you now have, you would have paid perhaps twice that amount in total (considering you would have taken a beating on 2 or 3 other compressors by the time you got your last one). And 23.1 CFM @ 100 psi is nothing to sneeze at, even today. Most compressors are delivering a fraction of that. Your needs have been well met, and you have a considerable volume of excess capacity. The out of whack CFM ratings you reference do seem that way and I think it is because there are so many units being offered at discount prices - with the "I wish I knew that when I bought this" sacrifice of SCFMs. As I posted earlier, my advice to someone looking to buy, is to look at the SCFM need you will have, multiply it by 1.5 or 2, and buy accordingly. For those of you considering a purchase, don't be fooled by a big tank. They are an important part of the "delivery" equation, but there is a lot more to it than just the tank. And "delivery" is exactly what you are looking for. You want a machine that will "deliver" enough air to truly satisfy your needs, so focus on the SCFM, and make a purchase that solves your needs. And if you are thinking about growing into a larger one, you will likely spend less in the long run by meeting your needs with your first (or next) purchase. I truly realize what happens when you go to buy one. Been there. Once you figure what you really need now and in the future, and get by the analysis paralysis (I had a bad case of that) the sticker shock sets in. For many of us the range faces $1000.+, and that's way too much to justify. The wife and kid will need clothes too, and It's nice to feed then every now and again. I found myself compromising to make my needs fit my budget. I resolved that I would buy on the lower end so I could at least get one. Then I ran in to one being sold by a friend - nice big unit in good shape! Bigger than what I needed, and half the price of a new one... in other words "excess capacity for the price that I could afford". Well, I guess I was too excited, or something. The guy decided to hook it back up and keep it. So, knowing that I can get what I need affordably If I look around and wait for a good used one, that's what I did. Glad I did, too, because I got one that should last a lifetime and satisfy all future needs for less than the first one I almost bought. There are thousands of good units out there not being used in somebody's garage that will exceed your needs for less than the cost for the new one that doesn't really do the job. Unless you must buy a "new" one for some reason, look around for a while and see what comes up. It tool me 6 months or so, but I ended up spending one-third of what I was going to spend, and I got twice the SCFM than I was going to "settle" for before. The wife and son were able to eat, and I was happy.... a rare combination around my place. They want crab legs - I want Castrol..... A good compressor can easily become the heart of your garage. Purchase wisely, or purchase often. I have nothing against used - but very well cared for - equipment. I will never buy another new vehicle again, either for similar reasons. I guess it boils down to the issue of "value": Getting something that meets your needs & pleases you, at a reasonable cost.

Yes, WELCOME! I second what SportBikeMike said.... this is a fantastic place to learn about your new car. Post some pictures of your new baby soon! The archives are full of information, and you will find people here who own the same year car who are ready willing and able to assist with questions. There is a lot of knowledge among the membership here, and a great willingness to share it.

I am by no means an expert on compressors, but have learned a lot about them over the last several years. I decided to get a "larger" unit than the little guy I got several years before, and did some research before getting one. I'm glad that I did, because my normal impulse purchasing habits would not have served me well for this purchase. Here's a few things that I've learned... anyone with corrections or additions, please post them (again, I'm not an expert). Proper compressor sizing will provide you with suitable performance and longer compressor life (because you will not 'overwork' the unit). Air compressors are rated by horsepower, pressure, and cubic feet per minute (CFM) of output at a given tank pressure. A good way to choose a compressor is to first decide which tools you are going to use with it (you have done that, but will you get bigger ones as time goes on?); the compressor should exceed the CFM requirement of the largest tool you will use by probably at least 1.5 times. If you plan to run more than one tool at a time off the same compressor, add the CFM's of the tools together before multiplying by 1.5. Generally, tools like sanders, grinders, sandblasters, etc. need a continuous flow of air and will need larger, more powerful compressors to work properly. Another issue to get a grip on is what is known as the "duty cycle". The duty cycle is usually expressed as a ratio - how much time the compressor can safely run within a given period of time. As an example, a common "duty cycle" for compressors is 50%, meaning that the compressor should not run more than 50% of one hour... During the "on" time, the motor is pressurizing the tank. During the "off" time, your tools are running on the air stored under pressure in the tank. If your tools are draining the pressure off too fast, the compressor must run at more than 50% of the time that you have it in use. (With the 50% duty cycle the maximum pumping time per hour would be 30 minutes.) Horsepower ratings of electric motors can be measured several ways and the figures have been abused by manufacturers over the years, so they are not a reliable way to measure performance. The CFM and pressure ratings of an air compressor the absolute best measure of how a compressor will meet your needs. You'll probably end up looking at a piston type compressor. There are several types of those to consider..... single-stage and two-stage. Single-stage compressors have one piston usually (sometimes two) that compresses air and delivers it to your storage tank. The single-stage system is normally found on light or medium-duty compressors with a maximum rating somewhere below 150 pounds psi. Single-stage compressors are adequate for many of our needs. Two-stage compressors have two pistons that compress air. The first piston compresses the air and pushes it through a check valve to the second piston. The second piston further compresses the air and delivers it to your storage tank. The two-stage system is usually found on better heavy-duty compressors with maximum ratings above 150 psi. Two-stage compressors are good choices for heavy use environments. Then there is the decision to get an "oil-free" or "oil-lubricated" unit. Depending on what your needs are you may not have a choice. Oil free units require less maintenance, no oil changes, etc., but some people claim that they do make more noise and will not last as long. They are good for a lot of applications, and I know many happy users of that variety. I have very limited experience with oil-free units, and I have no complaints with them. "Oil-lubricated" units are most often found in more demanding environments. Some people claim that they are a bit quieter and that they last longer. Of course there is maintenance involved with oil changes. Personally I prefer the latter variety despite the maintenance (I have this 'thing' about parts rubbing each other without lubrication.... what can I say?) Any variety that you will get will be loud. I have never been around a quiet one, so consider 'placement' in your garage, and maybe some noise control. Sticker price can be an eye popper for a nice unit, but don't skimp if you can possibly swing it. Consider what you may wish to use it for in the future, beyond your immediate needs. A good heavy-duty unit new will likely be between $900. ~ $1500. This is where patience can come in. I decided to look for a used well cared for unit. Found one (DeVilbiss brand) on eBay for $300.(plus a 150 mile drive) with about 50 hours of use - looks and performs like new, 80 gallon tank, oil-lubricated two-stage, and delivers 17.4 SCFM @ 100 psi & 16.9 SCFM @ 175 psi. I am very happy with the unit and it will meet any demands that I put upon it now and in the future. When I got home with it I asked my wife to help me get it out of the back of the truck... It was a bit big for me to do alone safely.... her only comment was "holy $^!#!"

There is a set of push-button type on eBay right now ('72 ). He's sell in left and right in separate auctions. They come up for auction often.... there was a sale a week or so ago on eBay for push-button type that never got any bids with a $0.99 starting bid, and others that have brought good prices. I don't know what the magic is related to that.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/72-Datsun-240Z-L-H-Seat-Belt-OEM-assy-N-R-LOOK_W0QQitemZ330124201484QQihZ014QQcategoryZ140721QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem