DeesZ

Welcome aboard, jpuga. Hold off for a good one, as the selection in yoyr area is very good - you can afford to be a bit picky. And take the advice of hls30.com by posting some pictures of the ones you look at. There is an education at your fingertips at this site. Check out the posts related to cars for sale on eBay, and you will quickly pick up on what site members focus in on. Use this knowledge base as a foundation for a purchase that you will be happy that you made!

Thanks, Gary! Exactly what I needed to know. John

Well, when it was down around $300.00, it wasn't such a bad deal. The defects are obvious, and now it's at $1K.... somewhat beyond what I'd pay now. And if that car is daily driver, his insurance company should be notified! Missing lug nuts worry me. I almost got killed one night by a flying wheel! The sucker flew right off an MGB and hit the bar I was going in to - missed my head by about a foot. Seems the guy rebuilt the front end a week before and reversed the hubs where the knock-offs secure the wheel. He threw on his brakes and there was an awful racket and spark show. I was looking at that when the tire & wheel went by! I had an extra drink or two that evening - probably should have turned around and gone to a church instead.

I searched the archive and turned up no results on this. Lots of other good reading that set me back about an hour and a half, but not this. for a 1972 240Z what size is the heater hose that attaches to the heater core - the one that branches off above the oil filter, just before the reducer hose. Thanks!!

This is a good old thread on plastic repairs... I'm glad that I used the "search" feature - It's simply incredible the amount of knowledge collected here! To the point - Are there any 'updates' here? I just acquired my second 240Z (mfg 2-71)with the intentions of parting it out to support my habit with #1 (5-72), but, and I say this without a thorough inspection, it may be too nice to do that to... I will get under it soon to draw a final conclusion. So, today I dug through a box of stuff that came with it, and found the ash tray assembly. Unfortunately broken, but only in two pieces, and it's all there. It has residue of a previous gluing attempt which can easily be removed to make a really tight fit for repair with just light clamping. The repair is a relatively easy one compared to many others that I've done, but my question is this: "What repair compound do y'all recommend?" I was going to simply J-B Weld & clamp it, but after reading these threads, I think that there are maybe some better options. What results have been obtained since this thread ended in late 2004? Has anyone ever used the Permatex dash repair kit? I have one out in the garage that I never used (comes with texture sheets, a little heater, dyes, some kinda compound, etc.). Is that a possibility, or is there something better such as the products mentioned earlier in the thread? I was thinking that whatever I end up using will likely get a patch piece on the bottom with J-B to reinforce it from future breakage. What are your thoughts & suggestions? I'll attach a couple pictures so that you can see what I am dealing with.

That's ugly - are you getting any loud rapping noises out of that thing?

Nice looking 260Z! I'm glad you posted the pictures. I had to check out one of the few other Z's in Pennsylvania! I see that you have your cat reading up on the 260Z literature, too. I have a small flock of cats (ok, so what is the right word for a herd of cats?), and they simply love the 240 that I have. If I leave the windows open I am assured to find at least two cats sleeping in there within an hour or two. I guess they like the confined quarters..... Heck, I remember 'back in the day' I'd just leave my social events and go to work about 3:00a.m. and curl up in the hatch for a few hours of shut-eye. That was when I was flexible, young, (and somewhat stupid....)

I agree that it's not the stuff to use in place of real welding. And if so, only in an emergency as a stop-gap measure. But for those things that cannot be welded, it's been giving me consistently good results, and very few failures.

I have used JB Weld for a lot of things that I thought were hopeless basket cases (in some cases with a young child asking "Daddy, please try!" I gave it a shot). I have had great results with the stuff. PLEASE be aware that where I buy the stuff (my local NAPA) there are two varieties of the stuff - Regular and Quick (might be spelled Kwik or something like that). The Quick Weld states a quicker curing time and a lower resistance to heat. I tried it once for something and it worked okay, but in my opinion I'd stick with the original formula for important repairs. For the floorboard repair I'd stay away from bondo. Many folks say that bondo and moisture are a poor combination. The POR fix is likely the avenue I would take as a stop-gap approach. I think it'll also be best to get off as much of the rust as you can first. That'll leave you with larger pin holes, but lessen the chance of reoccurance. Guess what, yep, I've got a Buick, and it's sporting JB Weld in a few spots. It's funny, I came to the board to ask y'all your opinions for a repair job that I am considering JB for, and found this thread right on top! I'll start a separate thread for that one rather than hijack this one.

Good reading (entertainment) listing on eBay.... not that bad looking, and cheap (now, but with a long time to go....) We can learn something new every day. Here I found that the dash came with an "original hard cover which so many Zs don't have". He's right, most of us don't have an original one. Someone must have trashed mine before the dealer sold it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-71-DATSUN-240z-CA-CAR-EVERY-DAY-DRIVER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6187QQihZ006QQitemZ160107541862QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

I've experimented with mine... It simply slows down closing the throttle when you take your foot off of the pedal, rather considerably, too (at least mine does). I plugged it as you have and have what I consider better pedal response, probably at the expense of creating a few more emissions, because it is part of that system. Sometimes I run with it, and sometimes without - I guess that it depends on my mood.

Ditto on the coolant leak, Beandip. That was my first thought. Depending on what is being used as coolant, you may/may not be able to smell it distinctly. When a leak is bad enough, your defroster can actually create more 'fog' than it gets rid of. Also, some coolants will actually leave a thin film of crud on the inside of the windshield that you may be able to see if you get it in the bright light at the proper angle. That's been my experience, anyway. Please let us know what you find as the root cause..... mine does it every now and again...

Graphite powder has worked well for me. I had similar experiences with WD-40 (good in the beginning but poor at the end). I can say that the WD was good for getting 35 years of grunge loose and helping to clean things up a bit. Before using the graphite I suggest getting as much of the WD, etc. off of the surfaces & out of the way. Please let us know how things work out.

I just got these Western wheels on a 240 I picked up yesterday. They are in good shape except for 20 years worth of storage dirt - no curb rash to mention, etc. Don't know the width yet - must pull one. I kind of like them, and may clean them up for use on my '72. I have wanted a set of Libre, but they are prooving elusive.... got a whole car with these on it for probably less than a set of Libre wheels would cost me. (Will post some more on the new car elsewhere as I inspect it closer in the future - must clean out the garage to make room for #2 first.) Is anyone familiar with these wheels? Good? Not-so-good? Where might I find a set of good lug nuts? Thanks! John

OK, I've read the "thread of origin". I commended Geezer for the apology because it takes a bigger person to do what he did than to complain. I stand by that statement, but now see no reason why an apology was necessary in the first place! There are people offended by nothing, and people offended by everything..... fortunately most of us live somewhere in the middle. We must remember that freedoms also come with responsibilities attached (or should I say "implied"). This situation presents a good example: The freedom of speech (for which we should all be quite thankful) comes with the responsibility to use it properly - it's not what we "can" say.... it's what we "should" say. Yes, it's a free country, and people can say what they wish, but we should think just a touch about what it is that we 'do' say. Geezer, your initial comments IMHO deserved no response or condemnation.... but that's my opinion. What's good about this? Well, we are finding out that the vast majority of this community lives somewhere in between the extremes of "offended by nothing or everything"...... most of us have a good / reasonable sense of humor. Perhaps this will serve as a wake-up call to those at the far extreme end who are looking for things to be offended about. It seems in this community they are not in the majority; that's why I enjoy spending time here. Common sense goes a long way in our relationships with other people. We were not all given an equal amount of that at our creation.... the good thing is that we can develop some common sense on our own if we pay attention to our surroundings, and learn / take the lead from others. As rediculous as this seemed in the beginning, I'm happy to see the response of support for geezer Ron. This exercise has displayed that most of us have a good level of tolerance and common sense. Let's not loose that, for if we do, the next thread to go will be "boobs"..... (and we really don't want that to happen, do we?) Remember, when freedoms are lost or given up, there are far reaching consequences!

Ron, very few people today would do what you have just done. IMHO you have set a good example. It's easy to make comments and considerably more difficult to apologize.

Well, the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania is not imune to these issues either. Around here, road rage surfaces often. Solves nothing, but keeps rearing its ugly head. Yesterday my wife advised me that I was a terrible passenger - You know, the one that applies the brakes from the passenger seat, etc. That opened up the opportunity for me to suggest that she was violating about 8 of the 10 rules outlined above. She took it better than expected, but I suspect it will change nothing. Old habits die hard.... or they can kill you and others.

Depending on what you want in the end, you could factor in another 2K on up for rust repairs over the next couple years, etc... Price seems fair (IMHO) if it is as represented.

On my '72 I have what looks to the eye 3/8" belt which corresponds well to your measurement of 25/64". On the fan pulley when the belt is seated, the belt very slightly rides above the outer rims of the pulley. To the best of my knowkledge that's the proper fit. I'm sure others can and will comment as to if that is correct or not.

I agree with what's been said so far..... Your investment dividend will be in "enjoyment", not cash. If enjoying it isn't your cup of tea, and cash value is, I'd suggest selling it and investing the money in a fashion that will match your level of investment risk. Somehow when you get into enjoying these cars they take on a character that encourages you to spend money on them that you know you will never see again.... (kinda like that woman of your dreams, isn't it? But you know what, with a collective 15+ years of Z ownership, I've never had an argument or been to divorce court with one of them..... unlike the human element I liken them to.... actually not a bad investment when you think about it in that light.)

I have the Plug and Chug that fits in the ash tray. It works, but does get in the way when shifting. It is better than holding a coffee in the crotch, it can be quickly removed and gotten out of sight when not in use. It's well constructed.... doing it over, I'd get the other one (and probably have the same or similar issues).

My guess would be that you will get the best sound from where the manufacturer suggests that you mount it. I assume that this is a desirable piece of equipment to some folks, and from my experience mounting something like that in a spot designed to be 'seen' usually leads to it being seen and going missing (along with some of your glass). If you wish to keep it for a long period of time cover it up - or buy two of them.... the second to replace the first after it gets liberated.

I have a spare external regulator sitting here that I don't need. Yours for $5.00 + postage if desired. It was brand new from NAPA last year, their $40.00 variety (not the $18.00 cheepo). I had a similar problem with a voltage regulator before it eventually it blew all of the bulbs that were on when the VR gave it's last gasp (literally exploded several of them), and fried the fusible link. Of course it was dark at the time and I had to drag my girl home at midnight. Anyway, consider the upgrade to the higher output 280 internally regulated alternator along with the plug unit that takes care of all the wiring issues. If you decide against the upgrade (which I DO recommend), drop me a PM. The regulator I have has about 5 hours on it and it's getting very dusty on my workbench. Good luck! p.s. please take the advice to get it fixed before driving any more lest you will be tempting a malfunction that can easily result in a very expensive fire. As for the plug adapter.... Arne, weren't you involved with making those available at one point? (I could be wrong there, but somehow I think of your yellow Z - which I really like - when I think of those adapter plugs.)

I looked at that a few days ago too. For the $45.00 it will cost to get it, it would seem logical to stick with used OEM parts. Just my opinion. A few years ago the 'universal' replacements were in most of the stores like NAPA, Auto Zone, Pep Boys, etc. I have not looked lately, so they may still be available. Many of the used ones available that do not work can be made to do so by tapping on the motor a few times while it's powered up. Seems like they freeze up after a few years of inactivity. I've picked up at least two of them that were inop & they worked just fine after powering on/off several times & tapping them. Just a thought / suggestion if you've got a dead one looking at you.....

Coming on 56 as of May 14........