DeesZ

That's ugly - are you getting any loud rapping noises out of that thing?

Nice looking 260Z! I'm glad you posted the pictures. I had to check out one of the few other Z's in Pennsylvania! I see that you have your cat reading up on the 260Z literature, too. I have a small flock of cats (ok, so what is the right word for a herd of cats?), and they simply love the 240 that I have. If I leave the windows open I am assured to find at least two cats sleeping in there within an hour or two. I guess they like the confined quarters..... Heck, I remember 'back in the day' I'd just leave my social events and go to work about 3:00a.m. and curl up in the hatch for a few hours of shut-eye. That was when I was flexible, young, (and somewhat stupid....)

I agree that it's not the stuff to use in place of real welding. And if so, only in an emergency as a stop-gap measure. But for those things that cannot be welded, it's been giving me consistently good results, and very few failures.

I have used JB Weld for a lot of things that I thought were hopeless basket cases (in some cases with a young child asking "Daddy, please try!" I gave it a shot). I have had great results with the stuff. PLEASE be aware that where I buy the stuff (my local NAPA) there are two varieties of the stuff - Regular and Quick (might be spelled Kwik or something like that). The Quick Weld states a quicker curing time and a lower resistance to heat. I tried it once for something and it worked okay, but in my opinion I'd stick with the original formula for important repairs. For the floorboard repair I'd stay away from bondo. Many folks say that bondo and moisture are a poor combination. The POR fix is likely the avenue I would take as a stop-gap approach. I think it'll also be best to get off as much of the rust as you can first. That'll leave you with larger pin holes, but lessen the chance of reoccurance. Guess what, yep, I've got a Buick, and it's sporting JB Weld in a few spots. It's funny, I came to the board to ask y'all your opinions for a repair job that I am considering JB for, and found this thread right on top! I'll start a separate thread for that one rather than hijack this one.

Good reading (entertainment) listing on eBay.... not that bad looking, and cheap (now, but with a long time to go....) We can learn something new every day. Here I found that the dash came with an "original hard cover which so many Zs don't have". He's right, most of us don't have an original one. Someone must have trashed mine before the dealer sold it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-71-DATSUN-240z-CA-CAR-EVERY-DAY-DRIVER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6187QQihZ006QQitemZ160107541862QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

I've experimented with mine... It simply slows down closing the throttle when you take your foot off of the pedal, rather considerably, too (at least mine does). I plugged it as you have and have what I consider better pedal response, probably at the expense of creating a few more emissions, because it is part of that system. Sometimes I run with it, and sometimes without - I guess that it depends on my mood.

Ditto on the coolant leak, Beandip. That was my first thought. Depending on what is being used as coolant, you may/may not be able to smell it distinctly. When a leak is bad enough, your defroster can actually create more 'fog' than it gets rid of. Also, some coolants will actually leave a thin film of crud on the inside of the windshield that you may be able to see if you get it in the bright light at the proper angle. That's been my experience, anyway. Please let us know what you find as the root cause..... mine does it every now and again...

Graphite powder has worked well for me. I had similar experiences with WD-40 (good in the beginning but poor at the end). I can say that the WD was good for getting 35 years of grunge loose and helping to clean things up a bit. Before using the graphite I suggest getting as much of the WD, etc. off of the surfaces & out of the way. Please let us know how things work out.

I just got these Western wheels on a 240 I picked up yesterday. They are in good shape except for 20 years worth of storage dirt - no curb rash to mention, etc. Don't know the width yet - must pull one. I kind of like them, and may clean them up for use on my '72. I have wanted a set of Libre, but they are prooving elusive.... got a whole car with these on it for probably less than a set of Libre wheels would cost me. (Will post some more on the new car elsewhere as I inspect it closer in the future - must clean out the garage to make room for #2 first.) Is anyone familiar with these wheels? Good? Not-so-good? Where might I find a set of good lug nuts? Thanks! John

OK, I've read the "thread of origin". I commended Geezer for the apology because it takes a bigger person to do what he did than to complain. I stand by that statement, but now see no reason why an apology was necessary in the first place! There are people offended by nothing, and people offended by everything..... fortunately most of us live somewhere in the middle. We must remember that freedoms also come with responsibilities attached (or should I say "implied"). This situation presents a good example: The freedom of speech (for which we should all be quite thankful) comes with the responsibility to use it properly - it's not what we "can" say.... it's what we "should" say. Yes, it's a free country, and people can say what they wish, but we should think just a touch about what it is that we 'do' say. Geezer, your initial comments IMHO deserved no response or condemnation.... but that's my opinion. What's good about this? Well, we are finding out that the vast majority of this community lives somewhere in between the extremes of "offended by nothing or everything"...... most of us have a good / reasonable sense of humor. Perhaps this will serve as a wake-up call to those at the far extreme end who are looking for things to be offended about. It seems in this community they are not in the majority; that's why I enjoy spending time here. Common sense goes a long way in our relationships with other people. We were not all given an equal amount of that at our creation.... the good thing is that we can develop some common sense on our own if we pay attention to our surroundings, and learn / take the lead from others. As rediculous as this seemed in the beginning, I'm happy to see the response of support for geezer Ron. This exercise has displayed that most of us have a good level of tolerance and common sense. Let's not loose that, for if we do, the next thread to go will be "boobs"..... (and we really don't want that to happen, do we?) Remember, when freedoms are lost or given up, there are far reaching consequences!

Ron, very few people today would do what you have just done. IMHO you have set a good example. It's easy to make comments and considerably more difficult to apologize.

Well, the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania is not imune to these issues either. Around here, road rage surfaces often. Solves nothing, but keeps rearing its ugly head. Yesterday my wife advised me that I was a terrible passenger - You know, the one that applies the brakes from the passenger seat, etc. That opened up the opportunity for me to suggest that she was violating about 8 of the 10 rules outlined above. She took it better than expected, but I suspect it will change nothing. Old habits die hard.... or they can kill you and others.

Depending on what you want in the end, you could factor in another 2K on up for rust repairs over the next couple years, etc... Price seems fair (IMHO) if it is as represented.

On my '72 I have what looks to the eye 3/8" belt which corresponds well to your measurement of 25/64". On the fan pulley when the belt is seated, the belt very slightly rides above the outer rims of the pulley. To the best of my knowkledge that's the proper fit. I'm sure others can and will comment as to if that is correct or not.

I agree with what's been said so far..... Your investment dividend will be in "enjoyment", not cash. If enjoying it isn't your cup of tea, and cash value is, I'd suggest selling it and investing the money in a fashion that will match your level of investment risk. Somehow when you get into enjoying these cars they take on a character that encourages you to spend money on them that you know you will never see again.... (kinda like that woman of your dreams, isn't it? But you know what, with a collective 15+ years of Z ownership, I've never had an argument or been to divorce court with one of them..... unlike the human element I liken them to.... actually not a bad investment when you think about it in that light.)

I have the Plug and Chug that fits in the ash tray. It works, but does get in the way when shifting. It is better than holding a coffee in the crotch, it can be quickly removed and gotten out of sight when not in use. It's well constructed.... doing it over, I'd get the other one (and probably have the same or similar issues).

My guess would be that you will get the best sound from where the manufacturer suggests that you mount it. I assume that this is a desirable piece of equipment to some folks, and from my experience mounting something like that in a spot designed to be 'seen' usually leads to it being seen and going missing (along with some of your glass). If you wish to keep it for a long period of time cover it up - or buy two of them.... the second to replace the first after it gets liberated.

I have a spare external regulator sitting here that I don't need. Yours for $5.00 + postage if desired. It was brand new from NAPA last year, their $40.00 variety (not the $18.00 cheepo). I had a similar problem with a voltage regulator before it eventually it blew all of the bulbs that were on when the VR gave it's last gasp (literally exploded several of them), and fried the fusible link. Of course it was dark at the time and I had to drag my girl home at midnight. Anyway, consider the upgrade to the higher output 280 internally regulated alternator along with the plug unit that takes care of all the wiring issues. If you decide against the upgrade (which I DO recommend), drop me a PM. The regulator I have has about 5 hours on it and it's getting very dusty on my workbench. Good luck! p.s. please take the advice to get it fixed before driving any more lest you will be tempting a malfunction that can easily result in a very expensive fire. As for the plug adapter.... Arne, weren't you involved with making those available at one point? (I could be wrong there, but somehow I think of your yellow Z - which I really like - when I think of those adapter plugs.)

I looked at that a few days ago too. For the $45.00 it will cost to get it, it would seem logical to stick with used OEM parts. Just my opinion. A few years ago the 'universal' replacements were in most of the stores like NAPA, Auto Zone, Pep Boys, etc. I have not looked lately, so they may still be available. Many of the used ones available that do not work can be made to do so by tapping on the motor a few times while it's powered up. Seems like they freeze up after a few years of inactivity. I've picked up at least two of them that were inop & they worked just fine after powering on/off several times & tapping them. Just a thought / suggestion if you've got a dead one looking at you.....

Coming on 56 as of May 14........

Really good point on the idle setting! Also, in your shoes as things seem to be fresh back from the 'Z-guy', I'd take it back to him and let him have a chance to give you what you paid for, a reasonably good running car. If he knows his stuff, this should be a quick fix since he's aware of what he's done up to this point, and something has changed recently from when it ran well. Perhaps the bolts were not seated tightly enough on the distributor allowing it to shift slightly (which would alter your timing), or something simple like that? Personally I think that Sea Foam may get some crap out of the engine, but I still leaning to the more mechanical adjustments as being the root. In his post Z train kinda summed it up pretty well.

The heat treatment usually works very well, I agree. I've also been known to get it hot around the case and then apply an ice cube to the plug itself.... If I recall from physics class that compounds the dynamic of altering the change in metal sizes and helps free up the plug. It's worked well for me more than once with stubborn drain/filler plugs. On the other hand, I haven't looked at a physics book for 40+ years, so maybe I'm the one who needs advice.

This is just my opinion and practice. Some folks will take issue with it because this seems to be an overly sensitive subject, but hey, it works for me, and it's pretty much what the FSM recommends. I have used 10-30 mostly. In the old days Penzoil or Quakerstate were my choice because they were rendered from Pennsylvania crude oil (which has been argued to be one of the best crudes available). Today I don't think either are from that source any longer. I now use Castrol 10-30. I will say this, going 'back' to 10-30 after you use 20-50 for an extended time may cause excessive burning of the oil (I guess from blow-by). I had that happen back in the '70s. My old store became a Castrol distributor and I was able to get a great deal at cost or promotional courtesy/gift/bribery. 20-50 GTX came on the scene and was a huge hit with everyone, so I switched over at the encouragement (actually bribery) of the Castrol rep. The stuff was great - no question about it. But in the north-east when winter hit hard the car did not seem to be able to crank as fast as I wished it would and starting before killing the battery became an issue. Mr. Castrol suggested that the heavier oil could be slowing things down a bit so he gave me a case of 10-30 to see if that took care of the problem (he wanted me real happy since I was in the position to recommend his products above those of several competitors). It was the fix that I needed for the sluggish starting in bitter weather issue. But there was the issue of oil consumption after the switch-back. If I'd get on it at all, there would be blue smoke out the back. Switched back to 20-50 & smoke went away. Made me happy that I wasn't facing a major repair. That 20-50 performed flawlessly for about 8 more years until I sold the car. It did leave me more at the mercy of bitter cold weather with the starting issue. I thought about getting a heated dipstick like I had when in Alaska, but a trucker friend of mine suggested a 100W light bulb under the hood beside the block overnight with the hood closed. Worked like a charm for many cold winters even with the 20-50. My current 240Z doesn't need racing oil; the 10-30 gives me comfort of knowing that I am protected well at start-up with the thinner low-end & adequately with anything I am going to throw at it with the 30 at the high end. Keep in mind that the oils today are superior to those that were commonly available in the '70s when the factory recommended 10-30 for temps ranging from -5 ~ +105degF. As I said right up front; just my opinion and practice, for which I see no compelling reason to change at this time. I could be persuaded to change with some good reasoning..... just haven't found it yet.

From my experience, "run-on" is most often caused by a timing issue. Fuel could also be involved. Make sure that you have good fresh fuel. Mine (straight stock) runs flawlessly on 87 octane as it is supposed to. Valve clearance adjustment or excessive carbon in the combustion chamber could be at issue too. Try the process of elimination doing the easiest first - timing adjustment. Work your way up to the harde$t task, that of removing the head to get the carbon out - also, some folks like to run Sea Foam through the engine to loosen up carbon - many swear by this solution and you will find some threads on it here in the archives. Please let us know what you find.

240ZX, I agree with you. I have discovered that this winter as well; the pause in cranking does really help the starting process. I have a couple gear reduction starters out in the garage from previous projects, so I think I'll test one and install it too.