DeesZ

The car doesn't appear to be too bad. It would be nice to see some underside pictures. IMO the description is on the very light side; to me that leaves a lot of quesions. The price is getting "up there" for what it appears to be - $3550 at this moment and the reserve has not been met -. I would guess the reserve is set somewhere around $4300, (just a guess based on the buy-it-now price). Personally I wouldn't want to commit that much money to a deal where the description leaves me wondering. It might be worth contacting the seller to see how up front he will be with more information. Consider what questions you have, then give him a call. Trust me, if you listen to what's being said - and how it's being said, you will walk away either feeling good about buying it or you'll be glad you didn't get further involved. The listing invites calls, so give him a ring. Your main wish is for a clean body - IMO you could probably do better if you wait and search for just that, a nice clean body. That baby is starting to perc in places and there will be work to do (I speak from experience having bought one that looked somewhat better but it will be requiring attention in some of the same places that that one is showing distress).There was a pretty nice body for sale here in the classifieds not too long ago... it was stripped, blasted, etc., and you could really see what work was needed. Location in relation to where you are could add a substantial contribution to your final total - or, if you are close, your savings in transportation could work to your bidding advantage. All that's just my opinion, and I'm sure others here may have different thoughts. That's what makes this place great; we have an opportunity to get good advice from several different perspectives. Good luck in your search. I just read that listing again. I gotta say, it's a stretch to call that "almost rust free".

I second the locksmith suggestion. Same thing happened to mine last year...solution was a locksmith who has been in business for a while and has worked on the old school stuff. It only takes 5 ~ 10 minutes to fix (if you know what you're doing....) I have learned to be very careful now with the keys. Seems like almost anything fits in that hole, and the trouble begins when you turn it....

Thanks for the comments and information! I learn a lot here every day thanks to so many good hearted members. Just too many "unknowns" for me on this one. On eBay there are often reasons for the lack of information. If the seller was new at this I may be tempted, but he's been around the block with over 100 feedbacks. The distance added in to the issue kills my interest, but there may be someone on this board out there within a reasonable distance who would have interest. I need another Z that doesn't run like I need another hole in my head.... That won't stop me though (until they find a cure for the fever)! I'm sure one will turn up nearby that I just can't turn down. I'm the same way with animals.... got too many around here, but keep taking them in. John Millersburg, PA

There is a 240Z listed on eBay as a 1972. It looks "earlier", to me anyway, because of a few things like the console design, where the lighter is, the defogger not horizontal, etc. Or could it just be a very early '72? What's your opinion? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=110015474345&ih=001&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT#ebayphotohosting I emailed the guy asking for a VIN # and a few additional pictures. He got back to me promptly but said the car isn't where he is right now and that he won't be near it until the auction is over. He couldn't answer any questions about what the cam cover had on it either (OHC vs. 2400). He did add that the dash has a cap (we can see that), so we can assume it's relatively rough. I gave it some thought as a potential donor car for my '72, or maybe even a fixer-uper, but the round trip would be 400 miles for me with a come-along or a borrowed truck, and it's just too much of a pig in a poke for me right now....the eBay listing really leaves me with more questions than answers... (I can just imagine the look in my wife's eyes.... she wouldn't say much, but, you know, that look!)... If you are interested, it's sitting in Virginia.... John

Hi, Vince! Good taste must run in the family! The Z is an enjoyable automobile no matter what variety!

Yes, this happens all of the time.... Those not of the "old school" have not adopted the practice. Don't give up; they can learn (maybe). Keep in mind that this practice goes back to the day whan the American car was king, and there were but few imports. Personally, I find it difficult to pick the newer 'classics' out of the pack.

I hope you are successful in your search! Your story sounds just like mine, being a previous owner of a '72 way back when and getting the bug to do it again, and finding that there are nothing but rust buckets in my area (Pennsylvania). I did find one on eBay, but patience paid off... wait for the 'right' one from the right seller (one you can be comfortable with). I found a California car that was brought back east to New York and ended up for sale on eBay. That gave me a chance to go see it, etc. Also, a thought to consider.... I sold a car to a guy in Canada a while back. All went well until he discovered that there were some steep import taxes that almost doubled the price of the car for him. Check into that to see if it's true, and if so, how your pain can be minimized. Suggestion: Go for it! Owning a 240Z 'again' is a great experience. The cost of Z's is also still quite reasonable.... now/soon may be the time.... John

Eliminating the external VR is a VERY good idea in my opinion. I replaced my external after the first one malfunctioned and burnt out every light bulb in my car (except headlights and one dash light), a fusible link, and melted a post on my fuse block. The replacement worked, but not to my satisfaction. I recently replaced the alternator with a 60 amp one I had in my pile of parts that is internally regulated. I used the adapter plug with the diode that's being sold on this site (sweet set-up!) The system now works much, much better overall, providing me with a much more constant and even power supply.... even with things running. If you are not insisting on "originality", make that upgrade soon. You will be pleased with the results. There are reasons that external regulators are no longer being used. Just my $0.02 for what it's worth to you. John

I read a recent post form xxjoeyxxeb that has a link to a video he made asking us to listen to his z-car engine. I clicked on it to check it out (I agree, a valve adjustment sounds like it is in order). The reason for this post is that I suggest you go to the website, do a search for "240Z", and check out some of the videos that are there! There are a lot of 'tire toasters' with their V-8 conversions, but beyond that, some VERY interesting material.... even some with a historical twist to them. Here's a link to one of the several videos that I really enjoyed - "Then And Now-Z Generations Battle" It will get you to the site where you can do a search after you watch the 'battle' (interesting results!) This is one of those sites where just about anybody posts videos about just about anything - be prepared to spend a bit of time there.... enjoy it.

That sounds right in the ballpark. I recently got a quote from a local machine shop (one that did work for me 35 years ago w/same ownership - knows & remembers what an L24 is!).... Was quoted $400.00+- worst case scenario, likely something less. Likely the most trustworthy shop within a 50 mile radius of me in south-central Pennsylvania.

I have owned two 240Z's. Both 1972's. Have driven 240, 260, and a variety of 280's, and I keep going back to the '72 as my preference. I've also owned a series of British... (Austin-Healey 100-6 & several 3000's, E-Type Jag, MGA, TR-250, TR-6... ) Z-car is by far my choice.... not the fastest or most sure-footed out of the lot, but by far the most dependable and easiest to maintain. When I decided to get a "real" car again several years ago, the 240Z was hands-down my choice!

I am not commenting to incite a riot or create bad will. Consider this my two cents worth and not an argument. eBay is an interesting market place. And that's exactly what it is, a market place with a world-wide buyer audience. Some of the buyers are bottom feeders and or chizzlers; some are big spenders. Most are somewhere in the middle, relatively honest folks seeking a fair price for something that they want to own. Sellers are cut out of the same bolts of fabric; some are less than honest in their representations and dealings, and others are very up-front and straight-forward. The most successful sellers are those that represent their goods for exactly what they are, provide lots of photographic evidence, and respond politely to questions that are posed to them. Bad seller attitudes drive prices down because buyers know that there will be another one of whatever it is up at auction again soon in a similar condition. Customer service, reputation, and attitude go a long way on eBay, just as it does on a used car lot or store. I'm simply not going to put thousands of my dollars into the hands of an individual that I have any doubts about. Period. I'd rather pass up on the "deal". I bought my second 240Z on eBay and got what satisfied me at a price that I thought was fair. The seller had hoped for more. I had hoped for a bargain and to pay less than I did. In the end, I paid what I considered to be a fair market value. The seller and I spoke at length on the telephone about the vehicle several times prior to my bidding. I felt comfortable with him and his representation of the vehicle. If I would have had any doubts, I would have waited for another similar offering from someone else. I wanted a solid daily driver with minimal rust and no major issues. That's what I got. I arrived at my assessment of FMV by prices and condition of vehicles offered for sale by folks on this website (and a fine group of folks this is!) as well as several others that specialize in Z's. Getting as close as I could to apples-to-apples comparisons, eBay and private sale prices are not that far off from one another (in my opinion, anyway). Honestly, there are not many truly high-end Z's that end up on eBay. Most (not all) of what is listed as fantastic collector grade original etc. has been doctored. You can see it in the pictures. Or most often, the listing sucks you in by stating 'like new', etc., then you get to the list of problems and issues that come with the package. Sometimes I gotta laugh at the listings.... what were they thinking when they said "show car"? Some of these sellers are not using the same 'grading system' that I would. Most of what are availabel on eBay are middle of the road or lower end examples. When a good one does come up, they seem to command a good price or do not sell because the reserve was not met. And what's the reserve? That's the seller's 'opinion' or 'feeling' of what the minimum amount that vehicle should bring is. I sold some very high quality diamonds for a guy a while back on eBay. His feelings about value were formed based upon appraisals that were several years old. I suggested that he get updated appraisals, and ask the jewler what a reasonable 'sale' price would be.... what would the jewler really expect to sell it for if it was in his display case on the open market. The jewler choked a bit when the question was popped, but finally leveled with him. On diamonds, you can anticipate about 1/3 (one third) of the appraised-for-insurance value. (And his diamonds sold for somewhere between 1/2 and 1/3 of the appraised values.) And yes, I know, Z-cars are not diamonds. But follow the thought here, some of this transfers to the automobile market. So we are dealing with a lot of "feelings" here related to value, and feelings are tough to contend with sometimes. I think that it's fair to say that many of the good / better vehicles don't even get to the eBay marketplace. Many are sold privately. Let's face it, a great example of a Z (or a piece of art work for that matter) has people in line making offers to buy it before the seller even decides to sell it. That has been my experience, anyway (for good stuff). I had standing offers on an old A-H 100-6 that I owned. It got sold to one of those people - never got advertised. It was much nicer than what was commonly available at the time (let's call it a 'desireable' piece). I was pleased with the price I got (actually surprised that the guy put that much money where his mouth was!) The last collector vehicle that I sold ('52 M38A1 jeep) never got listed on eBay. It went to an interested party that I 'met' on an enthusiast website. Interesting twist: we arrived at a 'fair price' derived from averages of similar vehicles sold on eBay. We were both satisfied, otherwise the deal would not have been made. With real estate, it's location, location, location. With cars, it's condition, condition, condition. The largest data base available for pricing many collectibles is the one available from eBay. I think I just completed the circle here. eBay has an influence on the market place, and the market place influences eBay (okay, it is eBay). If you want to know what people are willing to pay for an item, list it accurately on eBay and you will find out. I have been approached by people to list an item for them with an absurdly high reserve price, just to see what the true value of the item really is. It costs a few bucks to do that, but you do end up knowing what the market place will bear. I don't care what I have, it's only worth what someone else is willing to pay for it. Buyers are just as smart as sellers in most cases, but it is incumbent upon the buyer to follow the old addage "let the buyer beware." I don't even bother with sellers that have less than a 98% positive feedback rating. Sorry this got so long. "Reality" is hard to define because we all have a different opinion of what it is.

I had a similar problem on another type of vehicle ('52 M38A1 military jeep). After trouble shooting the circutry for about a year and still not finding the problem, an old-timer suggested that I check out the starter switch. That was an old floor pedal switch, but the 'theory' for the switch is similar for almost anything. I pulled the switch and checked it out with a multimeter for continuity. That was where the problem was, a very slight drain on the battery was caused by a carbon and dirt build-up on the contacts. It didn't read much on the meter, but over a two day period it was enough to drain the battery enough to prevent me from getting it to start. All I had to do was clean up the switch contact points and the problem was resolved. I am by far no electrical whizz, but I'd give that a check as well as the headlight switch (or anything else that is switched directly from the battery on a different curicut). The most obvious and probably the most common has already been suggested... a bad battery. I replaced them (two 12 volt in series) on the jeep too before checking the switch - that turned out to be an expensive process of elimination. Please let us know what the problem turns out to be when you find it.

I took my '72 240Z to work today where she sat out in the parking lot for several hours in the sun. When leaving I noticed that an existing crack in the dash began to lengthen itself and progress towards the front. Needless to say, this doesn't please me. When I was in the service we used to "stop drill" cracks in aircraft aluminum skin as well as plexiglass plastic windows & windshields. Drilling a hole at the very end of the crack would most often halt the cracking process and prevent further damage. Has anyone tried this method of stopping a crack on a 240Z dash? I'm very tempted to give it a try, but am wondering if anyone has tried this before and what results or cautions y'all may be able to offer. Please contribute your thoughts and experiences on this. After drilling, I'd likely put a drop of something in the hole to seal, level and disguise it. I'm thinking something like JB Weld might be suitable, but would really like to hear what others have used to patch a dash crack or blemish. I'm just not in a financial position to replace the dash or get it restored right now, so your contributions are quite welcome.

Thank you all for the insight! Mike, I found the hole and mounted the chain.... just where you said it would be. I also took the opportunity to replace the rubber fold down flap so that I don't do any damage to the paint with the dangling cap. I should have put on my glasses when I first looked for that hole! If it had teeth it would have bitten me! I knew it was there somewhere because the first Z I owned (a '72 from '72 to '82) had it.

I came across a car load of Z-car parts last year and picked them up. Finally, I'm digging through the last several boxes to see what all is there. I was excited to see two virtually new strut assemblies, complete with tags, etc..... but then it struck me that they are not complete. Looks to me as if someone removed the spring support. Please take a look at the pictures. You can see that something was there, but now it's gone. Why would someone do this? Is there any value to these assemblies the way they are, or are they now scrap metal? What do you think? Part numbers stamped on them are 54302-N4300 & 54303-N4300. I'm not sure of the application, but they don't appear in my 70~73 parts listing, so I assume they are a later application. Please give me your thoughts. Thanks, all!

I have a 1972 240Z. The gas filler cap is missing the chain that keeps it attached to the car. I've found another cap with a chain attached and I'd like to attach the chain to the filler neck..... but for the life of me I can't figure out where it attaches. I've consulted the FSM with no luck. I've felt around to find an attaching point, again, no luck. Can anyone tell me where and how this chain attaches? I'd really like to get that on because I'm prone to driving off from a fill-up sometimes with the cap not in place. At least the chain will get it home with me! (Been lucky so far and haven't lost it.) Thanks!! John

Just a heads-up FYI, I came across this while trolling eBay this morning and thought one of y'all may be interested (I am too, but priorities are $ucking me dry.....) VIN-HLS30-00357 (& he's including a '77 with the sale) : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1970-DATSUN-Z-CAR-240Z-MANUFACTURED-11-69-FACT-AIR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6783QQihZ014QQitemZ330005026600QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW ends July 11 at what is IMO an odd time, so there may be some interesting bidding.

Here are a few pictures of my cam cover as it is after bead blasting and several coats of clear coat. (I also contrasted the indents with high temp black and then polished the lands and 'nissan ohc' with progressively finer sand paper down to crocus cloth prior to the clear coat.) Sorry I did not post them with the first reply. These get the message across much better than trying to describe in writing. As for engine color, I have tried "old Ford blue" on a couple parts I have on the bench. The results are okay, perhaps a shade too blue for a purist.

For the cam cover, consider bead blasting it clean, then several coats of clear high temp engine enamel. That worked very nicely on mine. Without the protective clear coat they will pick up finger prints, oil, and every loose piece of greasy soot within a 25 mile radius. Polishing makes a stunning display, too. I've seen some fantastic results that IMO look nicer than chrome (but my tastes are not for sparkle in my engine bay). I've also seen one that I was told was 'chrome' powder coated. That looked nice and should be easy to maintain as well.

I just looked out in the garage to see if I could find the one I had laying around. Sorry, can't locate it. Yes, eBay is the easiest option if there are none out in the garage. They are listed on eBay all of the time for different applications. Just know what it is exactly that you are looking for, and remember to be patient and don't get "caught up" in the bidding. Also be aware of what the seller charges for postage, as some (less than honest) sellers sock you with outrageous shipping fees; just check it out before bidding and "set your limit & stick to it".... with eBay, patience is your wallet's best friend. I do not recommend buying from a seller that has less than 98% positive feedback.

I agree, a "competent" locksmith is the answer. I had mine done by a locksmith that I know and that has been working on automobile locks for the last 40 years. He smiled when I proposed that he work on it. To him it was a blast from the past, and he enjoyed every minute of the experience. The cost to you should be generally for "time" involved, as there isn't very much in the way of parts. Find someone that's been around for a while and enjoys their work.... That will be the most gentle on your wallet.... (Whew!! About $600. for OEM!!! !ouch!)

Please, could anyone post a few pix of a Z car properly positioned on jack stands? I'd like to see from the bottom up so that I do it the proper way without doing damage to my vehicle (positioning properly on the uniframe concerns me). Also, what's the recommended procedure, one corner at a time, or both front or rear at a time? (Logic tells me both front or both rear so as to avoid the leaning.) And what are the best jacking points to use when doing this. I'm ready to go with a small floor jack and four jack stands from harbor Freight! I guess all I need now is the confidence to do it correctly, and I know that y'all can certainly supply that! I must admit that I an a "visual" learner; seeing helps me understand much better than trying to interpret from text. I don't mean to be a pain, just want to do it right the first time. (I have in the past used a pair of ramps, but want to get the girl up on all four corners without wheels touching.) Your help and suggestions will be greatly appreciated! John

My thanks to you Will, Arne, Mike, and Enigma! You guys figured that out in a matter of minutes, complete with pictures. I should have asked a year ago! I'll also be looking around for some 195/70-14, or 205/65-14 tires. I greatly appreciate your help with this. The new tire sizes remain a mystery to me. I think that I'll do some polishing on the wheels, contrast them a bit by painting the recessed areas black, and hit them with a coat of clear coat.

That is one fine looking automobile. It is exactly like the one I bought in 1972 and it looks pretty much like it did the day it was delivered.... at least from the pictures provided. John