DeesZ

Cadmium plating is great stuff, no doubt about it. Generally cadmium coatings are applied making use of a cyanide-based plating bath. Cyanide is most forms can be deadly; not to be messed with casually. Also, IIRC, don't heat cadmium plated stuff and breathe the fumes.... that cyanide issue again. I looked into doing some plating a while back and the EPA folks suggested that it would be okay, but the disposal of some of the chemicals would be problematic and expensive. That was a decade ago.

A 510 wagon..... That's one that I have been sorry that I let get away. It was a '71 with about 150K when it went. I installed an aftermarket cruise control as a demo for units that I sold in the parts store; a real Rube Goldberg device, but it actually worked! That car was a joy.

That could cause a problem even if it doesn't come off. That battery needs a proper hold-down before a disaster presents itself.

I hope then that the 'overheating' part of your problem is solved. Unfortunately it doesn't help address the 'not starting' problem (unless things were getting doused with spurting coolant).

From experiences that I have had with other vehicles, I would say 'yes'. How full/high did you fill it? If it was filled to the neck, I would say it was too full. I usually leave about 3/4" ~ 1" of air (but assure that all internal radiator parts are submerged) so that the coolant has some room to expand as it heats up. Otherwise, something has to give when things get hot. Please keep us updated.

I would consider getting a new suitable connector and a new f-link (keep the old one as a spare). The dealer/Nissan may even have them in inventory. I have in the past used dielectric grease on the plastic/vinyl/rubber of the connection and outside the connection (not "at" or "on" the metal-to-metal connection, as dielectric grease is not a good conductor of electricity).

Welcome aboard, and congratulations on your new car.... sounds like a nice one. Most, if not all of your questions are answered in the archives (you can get into them with the 'search' feature). You will be amazed by the information contained in there. The question about fluids is a can of worms. Everyone has their own opinion on that topic. For the engine I've been using Castrol 30HD of late, but have used other oils in the past. You'll find fluid pros and cons by the pound in the archives. Keep in mind that most fluids today surpass the performance of fluids that were used in these cars when they were new.

Ditto on what 7277 said with an underscore on the word "sure". I speak from experience when I suggest that the gauge reading may not be the best information available related to how much fuel you have. How much gas is in the tank? Also, it's not uncommon to have a clog at the tank, and sometimes the fuel pick-up in the tank will rust through allowing the system to draw air instead of fuel if the level is 'low'.

To the best of my knowledge Pertronix does not make a unit for the dual point distributor, so you are right, the one you have is not a fit for your application. I do not think that it is just as simple as swapping base plates, either, as there are some 'wiring' issues to be dealt with too. IIRC the 'second' set of points was there to allow for changes to the advance curve, and under full throttle there is a switch-over to them from the first set. I think if you simply swap in a single point system there will be issues of having little to no spark at full throttle. I'm running on memory here, so if anyone can verify or refute that, please do so. Several of the members here have converted from automatic to manual shift, and I'm pretty certain that they would have run into this or related issues.

Welcome home, and welcome aboard. Nice looking car! My favorite color (I think). Thanks for pictures with your introduction, we like looking at all of them. You are at the right place for information about your car. The archives are a tremendous storehouse of knowledge, as are the members. Enjoy your stay and fill us in.

I don't think the price is too far out of line; premium condition commands a premium price in any type of a collector's market. I suspect it will sell for a bit less than the BIN price, but who knows... I am not in the same league or way of thinking as an individual who will spend that kind of money for a car I couldn't enjoy driving.... personally, I feel that for that kind of money I would rather purchase a non-program car in similar condition, but I suspect that most of them are sold privately without even getting to the market... (somewhat like good real estate). As for the AC, I would be happier without it in a 240Z. I took it out of my '72 quite shortly after I got it.

With all of its flaws, and there are many, it still is the place to buy and sell to the world market. There are no alternatives with the traffic that eBay offers. I was a Power Seller a while back, but have dropped to about one sale per month as a result of their rules, regulations, and fees. Knowledge is your friend when in any marketplace.... eBay or your local flea market.

Nice looking car!! Congratulations! Keep us posted.

I am thinking the same way as 26th-Z, if you are running the old mechanical fuel pump, check it out. Run your finger along the bottom of the fuel pump and see if you don't get a drop or two from down there. Some of them (mine included) start to seep oil at the little weep hole on the fuel pump, and while driving it will mist back to about the location that you describe. It took me a good while to figure out where the mist was coming from, but that was it.

Welcome aboard! Very nice looking vehicle. Nicer than mine!! Good luck with the spiders!

They are listed at about $0.80 each and discounted to about $0.62 at http://www.nissanparts.cc/cart/?pn=08360-51226. That plus about $3.00 in postage and you are way ahead of the eBay listing. Have your local Nissan dealer get them for you and avoid the postage (of course it costs $3.00 to run across town now, too).

Can anyone direct me to a good source of 240Z emblem graphics or photographs? I am looking to make some resists (stencils) of Z-Car markings/emblems from which I can media blast the designs on to some different items. If anyone has some graphics or pictures they would like to offer up for the process, please do. What I have in mind is media blasting some designs on items such as a cam cover. I'll attach a photo of something I did a month or two ago. (I think it was posted before, so it may look familiar to some of you.) I am gearing up in the future to be able to produce just about any image, maybe even pictures, on metal (glass, etc.,....whatever, for that matter). Right now I'm looking for images and ideas of things to treat. Thanks for any help or suggestions!

If the weep hole is seeping gas, I suspect that you have a bad diaphragm. On my '72, the weep hole is on the "other" side of the diaphragm from the gas. If anything comes out of there it would be oil. Check to see if your oil is smelling like gasoline and thinning out on you (indicating that you are getting gas flowing on the wrong side of the diaphragm).

I took most of the AC out of my 72.... sitting on the garage floor. PM me if you want me to dig it out.