DeesZ

Hi, folks, I'm looking for some opinions on the origins of the wheels that are on my 1972 240Z. These were on it when I bought it, and I'm about certain that they are from a later date and different vehicle. I've looked around for quite some time to try to put an identity to them, but have had no success. They are marked "Nissan" - "5 1/2-JJx1435" - "M83" - "40300 W1510" I really did not care for them very much at the beginning, but they have grown on me to the point where I just may polish them up and keep them on the car! There are others that I like much better, but there are other things in line for my paycheck that take priority (kid, wife, house, pets, cam replacement, paint job.... you know the list...). Pictures are attached. And please don't bust a gut laughing at the tires.... I know that the Hercules P175/75R14 have gotta go. But, they were on her when the she took custody of me (and my bank account). They were new, so I figured I may as well run some tread off of them (and I have, with great fun). Leads me to the next question: What size tires can I put on her to max out the tread I get on the road and not get any interference from the vehicle (rubs, thumps, bumps, body damage, etc.), and make no mods to the car? My use will be about 40% pleasure driving, and 60% "spirited" back-road touring as I live in a rural Pennsylvania area with mostly two-lane back roads with lots of tight curves, lots of hills, and great combinations of both....so handling is important. And, I'd like to maintain some accuracy with my speedometer, too. The last time I paid attention to tires was a long time ago, when I sold them back in the mid-seventies, and I put on a set of 185X14 Michelin "X" on my first Z (or maybe they were 175X14's - can't quite remember - old/damaged brain cells at work where that info is stored, and things have changed so much that that info isn't good anymore anyway). I sold Semperit brand at the time but preferred the Michelin X by far. So, what do you think about a tire size that will fit on these 14" rims? Tire ratings, and brand name suggestions are more than welcome, too! I've searched the archives and found lots of information available, but it just didn't quite give me the answers to the questions that I end up having. Your help and suggestions will be greatly appreciated! John 1972 HLS30 84646 Mfg 5/72

I had a similar problem a while back, only to find that my 'new' dist cap was defective with a slight crack, and it developed a "halo" of junk around the inside as if it had been spit off by the rotor (actually I guess it really was spit off by the rotor). It started in damp weather much better after I hit the inside area with WD-40 and wiped out all of the junk. Of course due to the crack I replaced it in relatively short order.

I've been looking at a few of these too. I think there are few of them out there that go up/down with the switches that we have on the older stock radios. Note the ad on eBay indicates " fully automatic (goes up and down with the car radio ON/OFF)". It's not a big point unless you are trying to keep things fairly original. On the other hand, if your radios are recent aftermarket equipment, that may be exactly what you are looking for. It's not at all unusual to see used antenas out of a 240Z on eBay. I don't recommend bidding on this (look at the postage!), but they turn up like this quite often. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-240Z-Parts-Lot-260Z-280Z-25-Items_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6763QQitemZ8077217956QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW And here's another "closed" auction for one (I have not seen them go that high!)

There are several up on eBay right now. I think one of them may be an AMCO, but I'm really not too sure about the others. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/75-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-4-Speed-Shift-Knob-Vintage_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33703QQitemZ8077191999QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-Z-CAR-SHIFT-KNOB_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34206QQihZ010QQitemZ200000334247QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1970-1983-datsun-240z-260z-280z-280zx-walnut-shift-knob_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33703QQihZ014QQitemZ330000396004QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW I really like the OEM knobs best, they are not as bulky. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-New-OEM-Woodgrain-Shift-Knob_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ10076QQihZ002QQitemZ4652238746QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Yep, that sure looks like the one. There were also ones with a "Z", if I recall the AMCO product line correctly.

All of the eBay tips are very good. Each one, in each of the postings is very well founded. I have eight years of selling experience on eBay, and have had very few disapointments with the system and other eBay community members. Several issues may not seem important, but they were offered by sellers with obvious experience. Within the last two years I have noticed a tremendous increase in last second bidding. Yes, last second, not minute or hour. Many of my listings double in value in the last 5 ~ 10 seconds. Many bidders wait to drop their load at the bitter end. This makes it very important to consider when you want your auction to end. With Z-cars, and other 'boy toys', as my wife calls them, I suggest an ending time when your audience will be available. I usually list this type of an offering so that it will end around 7:00 western / 10:00 eastern time. Also, I like to schedule my listing for a Thursday night and run it for ten days. That way I get two weekends of play, with the auction ending Sunday night. This is important because the highest traffic on eBay for browsing is on weekends. The more weekend days that you get, the more watchers and potential bidders you will get. I also go overboard on pictures. I use lots of them and of the highest quality I can provide. This makes it as close to seeing the item in person as possible. The old saying "a picture is worth a thousand words" applies to eBay. Hook them up with an accurate, honest description, and you will likely not be let down. Low starting bids are another way to get watchers and bidders. I often start at $0.01 with no reserve (but in the case of a nice Z-car would likely put a reserve on the auction). Keep in mind that the more watchers you get, the more bidders you will have at the end....get your auction on as many buyer radar screens as possible. Also consider "feedback" ratings: A seller with under ten feedbacks, even if they are all positive, may not attract as many bidders as another seller who has more. Buying from a seller with 0 feedbacks is like buying a pig in a poke. As a buyer you will be comfortable bidding higher if your comfort level with the seller is higher (and feedback is about the only way to convey that comfort level). I get queezy buying from anyone with less than 98.5% positive feedback. I have bought from sellers with 0 feedback, but it's an uneasy feeling. The positive side to buying from a 0 feedback seller is that you will likely get a bargain because there will be fewer people bidding against you (and that's not good at all for the seller), but you're taking a chance, too. I've been lucky in that respect. For someone starting on eBay I usually suggest selling a few low-end items first, build up some positive feedback, get the hang of the system, then list the bigger ticket items. In the case of selling something like a Z, it may be worth while farming the job out to someone who has a good feedback record and experience writing listings, etc. The money that you spend doing that will come back to you several fold in the end of auction results. Last but not least, as everyone has said, beware of something that smells like a rat. PayPal, although expensive, is a great money transfer service that is well worth the fees you pay. More than 95% of my sales are paid with PayPal now. If you don't offer that option, you will exclude some potential buyers. By the same token, do not state that the ONLY payment method accepted is PayPal, either. Include other methods like US Postal Service Money Orders so that there are several options available (but be specific in your listing). Under no circumstances release your goods to a buyer until you absolutely know the funds are good. (A woman I work with sold a car on eBay, received a certified check, released the car, and ten days later found that the check was bogus!) Under NO circumstances accept a check that includes extra funds for a shipper (requiring you to cash the check and then pay the shipper from those funds). The latest scam puts you out the cost of the car plus additional $$ for shipping. Just be aware of these things so that you can avoid the rats, don't let it scare you away from eBay. Get involved and enjoy the experience....Kinda like sex.... lots of fun, and if you practice a few reasonable precautions, it won't kill you.

I agree, that looks like an AMCO aftermarket knob. In the '70s I sold aftermarket parts for a living, and sold thousands of these knobs which were made for almost any vehicle. Our local Datsun dealers also sold AMCO accessories. In addition to walnut, there was a "leather" covered one, too, which I think sold for an additional several dollars. Knobs were one of the first things added to a new car; they were viewed as an upgrade and a step up from stock - not to mention, inexpensive. It was the first thing I did to my new Z in 1972. You are also correct about the finish on the wood not being the greatest for durability. But, as with almost any piece of wood, it can be refinished. I suggest removing the majority of the remaining finish with a solvent (lacquer or varnish thinner, etc.), not using any sand paper so as to retain some of the age patina, hit it with a few drops of stain (Minwax walnut or something to your taste) rubbing it in evenly. and letting it dry. Perhaps a second coat of the stain, and let it dry well. Buff off all that you can, then hit it with 4~5 coats of tung oil or boiled linseed oil, using a very light abrasive cloth (Scotch-Brite pad, etc - not steel wool) between coats after the coats dry. Finally, several coats of a good furniture wax. That should provide a stunning and durable finish to the wood part. I just did that process to my stock knob about a year ago, It gets richer looking now the more I use it. As for the center piece, there's the problem, they are tough to restore... I've seen some with coins, etc. mounted in there as replacements. MSA is likely your easiest route for a good looking knob. I've bought from them with better than average results and excellent customer service. I also highly recommend Banzai - Mr. McGinnis is simply fantastic. Good luck.

Yes, odd stuff happens.... I agree, they deserve honorable mention for finally following through. Most places would just sweep that one under the carpet and hope to never hear about it again. I've placed several orders with them over the last year and received far, far above average service each time. Mistakes have always been handled quickly at 100% their expense (yep, even return postage). I'm very critical when it comes to customer service (because I train people to do that). That's what keeps me going back to them..... I hope they keep it up! My only let down with them has been their failure to respond to several email inquiries.

I second that. I'd like to see them if they are still available, too. Thanks

There have been a lot of good suggestions here! I am facing a rebuild of my cooling system, too, so I thought I'd add a few things that may be worth considering. Here's my $0.02: I've collected all of my parts over the last six months, and will be doing this in conjunction with lots of other stuff (headers & new exhaust, cam & rockers replacement, bottom end bearings & rings, etc.) For the radiator I elected to have the original one recored. This way I have the original tanks top and bottom with a 21st century technology cooling core (things have changed in the last 35 years). I had a local shop do the recore job for about $225. Likely to cost about $200. ~ $300 (that's what it is in my area anyway). depending on what type of a core you choose to have put in, but pick a good source and you will have quality work as well as someone to stand behind the work if there is a failure of any kind. A new water pump is a good insurance if the old one is an unknown quantity - I've seen some that have almost no impeller remaining due to rust. Thermostat, hoses, etc., too, like you mentioned might as well be done while you're in there with the coolant fluid drained. I've also found that a fan cowling can work wonders for the stock system. If yours is missing, I'd get one on and see the difference that alone makes. I have an electric fan that I am giving strong consideration to installing. That will let me do away with the fan and fan clutch. More than likely I will go that way, but I've got the parts available to go either way when I get to that point. I'm weighing the pros and cons of each and leaning to the electric fan option, for now, anyway. Another often overlooked part that some people say really impacts the cooling is the lower engine splash board/pan. I'm looking for one of those for a 1972 240Z (I think any from 70~73 will fit; any opinions on that?) so that I can finish the job completely. Let me know if there are any sitting around not being used. I think the old part number is 74810-E4100. Of course like many of us, I had one of those 35 years ago and ditched it because it made getting at anything under there a pain in the neck. Wish I had it now. Anyway, great luck with the work you have planned. I hope it goes well for you. It sounds like your plans are well thought out, and the thoughts folks have been adding are insurance that you won't miss a thing. This is a great forum for things like this. The collection of experience out there and the willingness for everyone here to share knowledge gives us all an advantage that allows us to enjoy our cars all that much more. Probably should have said this at the beginning: I'm relatively new to the site and this is only my second or so post. Sorry it went on so long. My name's John - Live in south-central Pennsylvania - 55 years old geezer status - 1972 240Z HLS3084646 - second one I've owned (first was a 1972 that I bought on 1973 which regretfully is long gone now). It's a pleasure to be here.

Hi, folks. For the data base: 1972 240Z - HLS3084646 ~ Original engine L24-106543 - Mfg. Date 05/72 John