ZG240Z

Thanks, this is really helpful. Did you cap off the brake lines to preserve the brake fluid that was in the system, or did you let it run dry? And Av8ferg, that drum brake puller is brilliant — I will try that if the drum really is stuck fast again. I’m finding that it’s getting harder and harder to work on these cars after you turn 50.

My understanding was that the stock brake line wouldn’t work with the aftermarket wheel cylinders. Can anyone confirm?

Hello all, and Happy New Year... I'm having an issue with my car that I hoped would have a simple resolution, but so far I haven't been able to hit upon it. The last time I drove my car, a few weeks ago, I noticed that the driver's side rear drum seemed to be dragging pretty good. I put the car up on jackstands, pulled the rear driver's side wheel, and was unable to get the drum off easily. So I did what we've all probably had to do at one time or another, and I spent about an hour whanging on it with a rubber mallet...until I was finally able to pull the drum off. This car has an original master cylinder, relatively new front calipers with Hawk pads, stainless steel braided lines all the way around, aluminum drums and Akebono shoes in the rear. I pulled the shoes and springs and replaced them with a brand new set from MSA (I will do the other side as well). My process was this -- I cleaned everything up with brake cleaner, adjusted the 'star wheel' all the way down, installed the new shoes and springs, applied brake lube where the FSM says to do so, put the drum back on, and then adjusted the shoes with the emergency brake (and a few clicks on the star wheel). I bled the brake at that corner and added MOTUL fluid -- I haven't done all four brakes yet -- and all seemed to be well, and perfectly adjusted. When I tested the brake pedal to see if I had a good firm pedal, I did. I also noticed that the rear driver's side wheel would no longer turn easily, if at all. So I appear to be right back where I started. My observation is that when I stepped on the brake pedal, I locked up the drum again. What would cause this? Do I need to replace the wheel cylinder? It's my understanding that the wheel cylinders for a 1971 model are pretty expensive ($319.87 for the driver's side cylinder at Motorsport Auto). Is there another source? I used to buy parts from Riley Curtis at Lynchburg Nissan; is he still the go-to guy here? Am I totally on the wrong track? Any help or ideas are appreciated. Thanks! Brian in Asheville NC

I would prefer the 'attachment' feature, yes.

With a grin that big, why isn't he driving?

As usual, Carl is correct. A rear anti-sway bar will stiffen up the suspension and it will even feel 'better' when you're on the throttle in some twisties. But you really have to be anticipating the rear wheels breaking loose at all times....I had a '68 510 (with a 2.2 liter engine) with a Quickor bar in the rear and cut-down Roadster springs (super stiff) and I had to swap to some softer springs because the rear end was constantly trying to come around me in turns. I have purchased a rear bar for my Z, but I have yet to install it. Still trying to decide if I really want to deal with the harshness that it's going to add to the suspension, not to mention the driveability issues.

A sway bar kit at MSA runs $229 for both front and rear bars.

I don't have a ton of experience with having exhausts done, so my experience may be anecdotal......but I had a custom exhaust put on my 510 (2 1/4" tubing, DynoMax Super Turbo muffler) a couple of years ago and it only cost me $175. I am about to take my Z down to the muffler shop, but I'd probably fall over from shock if they asked me for $420 just to replace the rear part of the exhaust system.

Reminds me of the car from 'Corvette Summer'.....bah....

I had some mud daubers build nests in the grooves in a set of swastika rims one time (they were on the car, too!). I took them for a high-speed spin and then stopped by the touchless car wash and sprayed them at high pressure until gone......

No. Read....... http://zhome.com/History/FirstBoatload.html

If I'm visualizing this correctly, it's as though the bushing is too wide to fit into the mount correctly. Is that right? Have you given any thought to trimming it in order to make it fit? I wouldn't be afraid to modify it, if you feel like that's what it's going to take to make it work.

I replaced my bushings with the motor in the car. What kind of bushings are these? I used Energy Suspension bushings (from the Hyperflex kit) and had no problems at all.

Most of the people who have seen the photos would love to have that car. Nice job indeed, and I'm glad to see that the auction is going well so far. Don't let this nimrod get under your skin. We've all seen examples of his assinine attitude - it must be exactly the way it rolled out of the showroom, etc etc etc - the guy should just get over it. It's a Japanese sports car! We love them, but give me a break. It's not a rare Hemi Cuda. Delete his emails unread, or forward them to eBay (since harrassment of one user by another is against eBay rules). Again, nice job on the Z.