Sailor Bob

I just spent 3 or 4 hours packing around with my AC and in a rather numb moment I removed the cowling to see if there was a back entrance (doesn't exist). It was a revealing sight to see though - I now know why these cars are rust prone - no paint!!! Can you believe it, a very light spray of primer, but no paint anywhere throught this area. It's a drain for ---- sake.:mad: I recommend that if you haven't opened it up that you should take the time to do so. I have cleaned it out with a brush - it appears to be just surface rust, but it's pretty well the only rust on the car (other than battery tray) - from southern California. Tomorrow it gets the rust treatment - disappointing, but at least now I know. Later

The same thing happened to mine. I put the superglue to the test - perfect, after a couple of tries. I have seen them on ebay several times, if you are patient you'll find them.

Unfortunately It was

They work for the retailers! Alot of people around here who travel the highway use them, I haven't heard any complaints. We have moose instead of deer - accidents are deadly - typically the moose's legs get busted off and the body ends up in the cab (through the windshield). Not good.

Do you think they could ever get two cars that are the same, like two turbo Zs or two Honduhs? I just finished writing Rich a letter (E) saying something similar - If you can't get two of a kind at least get a pumped Z. These cars aren't anymore dragsters than Monte Carlos (stock). If your gonna pump the Monte then get a pumped Z. There are lots of tricked out Zs around - lots of V8s pushing some amazing power. There was one down here that mopped up the drag racing scene for couple of years. Either way pumped American V8s verses turbo japanese 6 is a mismatch and painfull to watch. I'm with you - match racing would be a show.

I was disappointed with the show - negotiating in the end turned into a yellfest. Heads up no nitrous would have been a race. (My humble opinion)

I don't get it, I'm looking for a drive all the time. I drove a 71 across Canada (coast to coast). Other than the praries I loved every minute. If I had the time I'ld do it again. By the way if any of you guys hate driving your 70/71 I know who will drive it no problem!!

It reminds me of a fuel line obstruction - it revs high in first as you develope pseudo vacum in the line and in second (when you're still throttling) it starts to bog (as you push the throttle). When you release she idles OK? I had a similar problem in a high end boat (200 hp but no guts???) turned out that the manufacturer don't clean the tank and the line was partially blocked with debris. The more I throttled the slower it went, when throttle released it idled good. Just a thought.

Does anyone know the stats on Jeremy Cozad's Z???

I had a 71 when I was 18, of course it was pretty new on the scene at that time. I always regretted selling it, so I got a 77 last year - I can't drive it enough. Go stock, these are great cars right off the shelf. Enjoy!!!

You really should use lowering springs with HPs.

I liked my Z with rubber and now I love it with urethane. I changed everything to urethane and put in HPs as replacement shocks. My steering is 300% better, the car is on rails and it isn't too bad for a drive. In this neck of the woods the roads are fairly bad, lots of patches and pot holes, no complaints from me. I've only put about 200 miles on it since the overhaul, but it's the best drive I ever had. Later

I can move all the heater control buttons except the temperature adjust, it seems to be spring loaded to return to center. Pleasea advise. Thanks S.B.

Any chance of seeing a picture of this puller?

Hey guys - sounds pretty cheap to me. Up here in the land of the Offshore oils wells we are paying 1.23 per litre - that's around $5.00 a gallon. Havent filled the Z since November, but I filled the F150 recently - it's got 115 litre tank - you get the picture. Not ready to walk yet though.

Just spent the afternoon trying to remove these babies, got one out and ended up up removing the entire control arm on the passenger side to get at the other. I have also invested several half hour periods with penetrating oil and a couple of taps here and few bangs there with a ball peen hammer (On a nut covering the ends of course). In the end I am giving up - the bushings look fine enough for now and I can get the shocks in as is. The point I wanted to make is that my old bomb is in pretty good condition no rusted parts (other than a little beneath the battery and the exhaust system), not a single seized screw, bolt or nut, but those g-d d--m spindle pins are pretty near impossible to get out. After destroying the threads (by banging on the nutted ends) it finally popped out with a 3/8 drive extention to push it through and behold "A perfect pin" no rust - not a spot, but close inspection (by a mechanical freind of mine reveiled that the offensive part was a shoulder where the lock pin passes through. It looks as if the lock pin pushed up a small shoulder on one side making the spindle virtually impossible to move. The spindle pin easily (but tightly) slides in and out of all parts until it meets the shoulder. Anyway that's my contribution, not sure how it can help anyone but if you wish to see a picture - let me know and I'll post one. One step closer to the road - yee ha. Later

Hi - Does the car make any attempt to start or just a dead turnover?

Hey Marty - it's the same deal - I looked at you 240 pics and its the same thing. I think mine looks more extreme though. The units are not designed just for lowering springs - it gives specific instructions in the box what to do "if" you intend to use lowering springs and states the limitations (height). Anyway I'm not impressed with the appearance, but it took 29 days to get the damn things shipped here and a couple of hours to put them in. How do they feel on the road? Are you pleased? Big change from stock?

Hey Marty - you and I are on the same page, your total change would be about 1 & 3/4" - I ball parked 2". I hope it will look different when the rear end is done, but I am thinking it's going to look like four way stilts. To further aggravate the issue I've just purchased a set of original wheels and tires to match (BFG TAs 195 70 14) which are smaller than those supplied with the car (about 1" in diameter). Anyway fingers crossed - at worst maybe I can go offroading or get in a monster truck rally.

Welcome I'm a realtive newbee, but I have to say this is the best Z site. Look around here and you'll find most of what you need to know and lots of advise. Zhome.com has a section on things to watch for when buying a z. I would tend to look for a solid frame and body with adequate mechanical status. The less you have to repair the better. If you look around there are some great deals out there. I prefered the 240s but I bought a 77 and it's very nice as well. Go to Ebay, under collector cars, datsun, z series - you'll get an idea of what's around, where it is and what people are paying. Happy hunting

I'ld have a second look at that. I just rolled her in the garage a few times back and forth about 6 or 8 feet - there seems to be a difference. Both issues are reduced but still present. I'm thinkin a day on the road will help (when I get her finished). Starting on the rear end. Thanks

I didn't do the springs - only shocks. I measured the springs and they are in perfect condition. I took pictures (digital) of everything befor I disassembled it, just to ensure I had a guide for reassembly, so I am confident everything is where it should be. The torques are all according to the shop manual, so I am comfortable with that. I'm going to roll her a few times back and forth in the garage to see if that loosens her up - can't do much more for now - brakes are let go (another job in progress). I'll post results later. By the way: sorry for the late response - I'm as far east as you can go in North America and I posted at about 9 30 pm local time. Later

Just finished installing HPs on the front of my 77 (also did all front end bushings, ball joints and tie rod ends), when I put the wheels on and lowered her, she was/is conspicuously taller. It almost appears as if the engine is out, I am hoping there will be some settling. Comments.... In spite of carefull recording and resetting the toe in seems out of whack - I am thinking this is related to the growth spurt. Got insight - please advise.

I just did mine (all nice and spanky looking now) and had no interest in reusing the old BJs. Simply hold the knuckle arm as far as possible away from the BJ and smack it (with a ball pin) at 90 degrees to the BJ pin (don't hit the pin) and it will fall out. Might take two or three smacks but she'll come (no pun intended), no tool required other than the hammer. My neighbour showed me how to do this - he says it's the taper of the pin that makes it work. Anyway - worked for me.

The case I heard about was a roadrunner (I don't know the dodges well), possibly a hemi, it was almost dust - sold for 10G. At the end of the auction the purchaser simply took the tags leaving the remains of the car. I've been watching some of the Z cars selling on Ebay and wonder.