Sailor Bob

That was a thorough bubble bursting. It's kind of tricky to find a romantic version of the origin of Z in all that and not being an engineer I like the Zero version better. Makes a better curb side yarn (Newfoundland speak for a story with elastic properties).

I'm no expert, but L or l seems to remind me in the term "in line" or "longitudinal" (meaning for and aft) kind of like "v" indicates the longitudunal profile of the layout of a V type engine. I guess I'm trying to say it may be a indication of shape/disposition as opposed to an initial. As I said earlier the Z thing - I don't know the origin but I like the Zero theory/story and the Zero was considered one of the best planes (for purpose) in the world when initially built and flown. The Z car is in that gene pool - pretty cool thought. Probably one of the best sports cars (dollar for dollar) ever built.

To further the point: Quoting Carl's article - In 1966 the Prince Motor Company Ltd. was merged into Nissan Motors Ltd. - From its design phase in 1966 until it's production release in 1968 the Datsun 510 "somehow"" received: a) a super strong and lightweight uni-body (monocoque aircraft technology) an over head cam, 1600cc engine rated at 97HP (from Prince) c) fully independent rear suspension (evolved from De Dion to Chapman) d) a ZF style fully synchro's 4spd. - From 1966 to early 68 The Dastun 240-Z is in design.. a) super strong and very lightweight uni-body 2.4L ohc rated at 151HP with Twin SU's c) IRS rear suspension (Chapman struts) d) a ZF style fully synchro's 4 and 5 speed The ZERO was built using modular production techniques, as opposed to the more common straight line "assembly-line" production. The application of these modular approaches revolutionized the auto industry in Japan in the late 60's and early 70's. Many industrial engineers believe that was a major factor in Japan's ability to take over automotive markets around the world. (Productivity Matters no matter how cheap the labor). "Weight" was the enemy of the ZERO design team and maneuverability was their goal. Likewise the 240-Z. Many of the engineers that worked from 1939 to 1941 on the ZERO, in the Japanese Aircraft Industry - were the engineers that after the war went into the Auto Industry - and mainly wound up at Prince Motors.. For that reason in the 1950's Prince Motors was the most advanced technologically and had the best automotive engineering capabilities in Japan. All previous Fairlady Sports Cars were full frame, bolted on bodies, solid axle... rooted firmly in the design and technology of the 1940's and 1950's. They didn't get overhead cam engines until after Prince Motors was merged into Nissan. Prince Engineers brought with them - new (new to Nissan Motors) Engineering Processes, Tools, Techniques and most importantly application experience with technologies not present at Nissan before they arrived. All of which take an Engineering Department years and years, if not decades, to evolve on their own. "Change" is something that Engineers just don't like to interject in anything - especially in the way they do things...;-) It is quite possible to bring new Engineering Processes, Design Techniques, Analysis & Simulation Tools and Production Technologies into an existing Engineering Department - but it takes years and years if not a decade for engineers to accept them, to learn to use them and then apply them to a design effort. I doubt that the Nissan Engineers could have made that transition any quicker, without bringing new Engineering talent in from Prince Motors. That is why it was not possible to "evolve" the Fairlady line of roadsters - into a car like the 240-Z. It took a revolution in the Automotive Design and Engineering Department at Nissan. Books written about the Fairlady Sports Cars from Nissan should end with the cancellation of the A550X project at the end of 1964... as that was the end of the line for the automotive design engineering and technology that had evolved on it's own within Nissan Motors after WW II. Likewise Books written about the history of the Z Car should start with the ZERO as that is the true evolutionary path of the technology and Design Engineering that was used in the development the Datsun 240-Z. The Datsun 240-Z represents "Engineering Ingenuity" and in that regard, Prince Motors was Decades ahead of Nissan. More in article.

I humbly submit: I have read that the designers of the original "Z" car were an aircraft design group from pre WWII Japan whose talents were put to use in the auto industry during post war retooling. These designers were responsible for the success of the notoriously historic Japanese fighter the "Zero". Hence "Z" car - doesn't it look and fit a little like a something ready to take off. A good freind of mine recently dropped by to veiw my late aquisition and remarked "I feel like I'm in a cockpit of a plane - It wraps right around you". I made no remark, but I probably smirked a little. Fact or fiction - it's not up to me to say, but it's not my imagination, merely the printed word from a version of Z history. I kinda like it. Interesting note : Z Car Roots or "Z" Stands For ZERO Contributed By: Carl Beck, IZCC #260 E-Mail: beck@becksystems.com

I just got back from getting my system checked out and much to my disappointment the condenser is in poor shape (20 or more pin holes). The rest of the system is tight and it blows cold, when charged. Unfortunately they had to drain the system and it cost $73 for the test. I now have time to size it up, at least till I get a new condenser. I called a repair shop and they suggested that I remove it and bring it in to see if they could do something with it, however unlikely. (At least he didn't call me "dude") Maybe they can cross reference or modify a core to fit. The cost of the repairs have me thinking I'm probably going to use the free stuff in the garage and ignore my eco-guilt. Being cheap and having an older Z is not a perfect match.

Just called A/C specialist to get system checked/purged/charged - told tech I would supply refrigerant (R-12), to which I recieved a Chilling (weak) reply - "no way man, no can do - we aren't allowed to use that stuff anymore - where did you get that anyway?" I quickly changed the subject and asked about what they were using as a substitute, to which he replied "414 man, where have you been?" I guess I was still in 1977 - anyway the R-12 is in the garage and the 414 is going to cost about $100. The little info I have found says it's fully compatable and 8% more effective than R-12. Who would have thunk it:surprised ? Anyone using this stuff?? please post opinion or impressions. Later

Thanks for the info - it was a combination problem as is so often the case. The linkage was in need of some lubricant (which it got (spray ) but the cable was kinked as well (probably due to the resistance from the linkage). The cable was the major nuisance to fix - with out removing the dash and/or heater control unit. I applied some Newfoundland mechanical CDF (common dog F--k): I straighted the cable as best as I could and fabricated a sleeve from a piece of antennae section (replaced during a radio repair) and fit it to the wire/controller end. That contains the kink and acts as a telescoping guide. Main thing - it works and I can get cold air again Now to rerpair the A/C. See Thread on R414B

Same down this way - if your bothered by water you're in trouble, it's the salt that really eats them. As for me I recently painted most of the running gear underneath, but the real killer is the windshield seal is a bad fit - showing gaps on both top corners. Last weekend I was out for a visit when a hint of rain began - I put electric tape around the top edges to keep her dry - worked OK. Not much good for a show, but did the trick.

I think I'll do the EScanlon mod - this winter after I get another couple of thousand miles behind her Thanks for the info.

In my recent efforts to sort out the steering and suspension I removed the struts steering gear and rear struts. When I finished I put on new wheels and tires (balanced), the wheel was of centre and the front wheels were off even though the new tierod ends were carefully installed to the exact position of the old. Wheel alignment was required. At the shop the guy at the desk says "do you want a four wheel alignment", so I say "how are you going to do that?" He rattled off some bs about the benifits but could not answer how they were going to do it. Further they had no information on the car at all (fortunately I had my trusty shop manual). I declined and paid the lesser amount for the basic wheel alignment. My point is that there is no adjustment for the rear wheels that I have seen, maybe I missed something. Please advise if you have information.

Hey Marty We must be pretty busy guys - it takes four months to have a conversation. Just to respond to your question - She looks a little like a mudder, but I'm a tall guy (6'2") so it fits ok:) . As for the handling - very good for street - I like it. I did the bushings too, so she's a little stiff. I'ld like to lower her for appearance but it's too time consuming and like I said she handles very well (up to 110 anyway (He He)).

Welcome Laura, according to your bio your pretty good at nursing cars too. Sounds like the makings of a good woman (person oops).

The four speed doesn't seem natural, I find that when I let down my guard I search for the Overdrive. I would prefer a 5 speed. Know where I can get one?? (east coast would be nice)

Two cents : I got the HPs installed with the stock springs, I also changed most of the bushings to poly (except the outer rear control arms) - she feels very stable, very good to corner, but I am aware of the road. To me that's ok but to some that's not good. The major negative for me was the height of the car increased - so appearancewise she looks a little like a mudder.

That is pricey, I've seen them for twenty bucks (buy now price) and I don't know if they were sold.

I just spent 3 or 4 hours packing around with my AC and in a rather numb moment I removed the cowling to see if there was a back entrance (doesn't exist). It was a revealing sight to see though - I now know why these cars are rust prone - no paint!!! Can you believe it, a very light spray of primer, but no paint anywhere throught this area. It's a drain for ---- sake.:mad: I recommend that if you haven't opened it up that you should take the time to do so. I have cleaned it out with a brush - it appears to be just surface rust, but it's pretty well the only rust on the car (other than battery tray) - from southern California. Tomorrow it gets the rust treatment - disappointing, but at least now I know. Later

The same thing happened to mine. I put the superglue to the test - perfect, after a couple of tries. I have seen them on ebay several times, if you are patient you'll find them.

Unfortunately It was

They work for the retailers! Alot of people around here who travel the highway use them, I haven't heard any complaints. We have moose instead of deer - accidents are deadly - typically the moose's legs get busted off and the body ends up in the cab (through the windshield). Not good.

Do you think they could ever get two cars that are the same, like two turbo Zs or two Honduhs? I just finished writing Rich a letter (E) saying something similar - If you can't get two of a kind at least get a pumped Z. These cars aren't anymore dragsters than Monte Carlos (stock). If your gonna pump the Monte then get a pumped Z. There are lots of tricked out Zs around - lots of V8s pushing some amazing power. There was one down here that mopped up the drag racing scene for couple of years. Either way pumped American V8s verses turbo japanese 6 is a mismatch and painfull to watch. I'm with you - match racing would be a show.