240zwinter

9/70 HLS30-10031 with the origional white paint and 135k on the origional motor.

Doh! Sorry I just enlarged the picture up and they are fiberglass not steel : P

I have a question. I thought that the early Z's had fiberglass head lite buckets like my 71? The car in the pictures has steel ones since you can see them crumpled from the crash. So did just the US Z's have fiberglass or maybe that picture was taken after the late model 240z steel ones where available?

Installed new U-Joints in the drive shaft and the clunk is gone : )

One more question I noticed that the metal Fuel rail on my 240 has a return? line on it. All of the side draft carb set ups I have seen do not use this rail and the return line. I have even seen alot of SU's without the fuel rail and return line on them. Anyone know if capping it and not using it will have negative effects? Thanks again.

I have seen it online but most of the fuel grade stuff is yellow not clear like this page shows. http://www.newageindustries.com/clearfl2.asp I was told by the guy at Ace Hardware that standard PVC hose will disolve if I use it as a fuel line? The guy at OSH Hardware did not know for sure either so that is why I was looking for fuel grade clear : ) I am doing my heater hose in clear as well with a drain. Anyone know what ID/OD of the small SU carb jet hose is off hand?

Hello I am going to replace all my fuel lines and possibly my fuel rail. I used to have clear tubing on my old 510 that worked great and wanted the same on my new Z. I am going to use 1/4" from the main hard line and was told that the tubing is fuel rated PCV but I can not find any and did not want to just use water rated PCV. Does anyone know where to get 1/4" clear not yellow fuel safe tubing? Also what ID/OD is the SU jet tubing since I want to replace that as well as add a float level tube. Thanks.

I dont realy like that style but the 17's look ok to me? Here is a pic.

I put those sway bars on yesterday and took her for a few corners around the block. Who ever made them seemed to do a good job of ballance as the car is flat and very neutral in corners now : )

In no way would I consider this done correctly just a temp fix. I was going to replace my bushings with a whole bar but it was the wrong one so it was already off and had to go back on to drive it since its my only car ATM. Once I finnish building the bead blast cabinet I can tear the car down and do it right with poly everywhere : )

You mean the bushing repair/mod I posted here http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19283 ?

Well after looking at the Diff. it seems to be a R-200 by all the photo's I have seen. Thanks for the Z car garage web site link Beandip : ) I dont know if its a LSD or not but it does not spin the oposite direction very easy by hand. I suppose I will need to open it up and see as well as confirm the final ratio of the Diff. I also noticed that the Diff seems to be in the later 1" back position since the drive shafts are at 90 Deg. and the mustache bar is reversed. The back link bar? is barley rubbing the diff so I will need to replace it or just grind a U shaped notch in it for clearance. The other thing I noticed is the drive shaft seems to be a bit short? I will post a pic. of the gap to see if anyone can tell if this is ok to drive like that. The 5 speed does not look like the Borg Warner one pictured here http://geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html It is also not a dogleg 5 speed so it must be a 280 trans. Accourding to that site it is better to have the later 5 speeds from a 81-83zx but does not show how to identify the early and late 5 speeds? Can anyone tell me by the pic of my trans or have any info on how to tell if its a early or late 5 speed? Thanks again for all your help.

Thought I would post a quick mod/fix that worked on the mustache bar bushings. Fisrt off I had a bushing that would allow the bar to move up and hit the frame. I didnt have any luck with a used bar bushing from the wrecking yard so I came up with a temp mod/fix untill I get new ones. I noticed that the bushing had 2 holes through the rubber compaired to the ones I got from the yard and were much softer. So I grabbed some thick vacuum tubing I had laying around and some bailing wire and did the following. Cut some length of hose about 1/4" OD thick so that it wraps around the metal bushing insert. Then slide some wire through it leaving about 1 1/2" out each end. Then wrap the hose around the metal bushing insert and twist the wire and then cut the excess. Then tuck the twisted excess wire down in the rubber bushing holes and make sure it is wraped just snug enough to stay on the bushing but not too tight. I then used 2 solid concave bushings caps top and bottom. You will have to tighten the Diff mount first then jack up the diff to compress the bushings enough to get some threads at the bottom. Walla ! stiffer bushings that dont knock !

So how do I identify my diff.? Is there a way to confirm that it is a R180 or R200? If I were to replace the rear diff housing and back A-Arm mount/bracket? would I need to get a longer drive shaft or is there enough travel on the splines? The holes are on the same centers and dont apear to have been drilled out. The new sway bar mount bracket's come real close to the old mustache bar about 3/8 to 1/4 " away. You can see how close they are in the pic. but dont seem to rub yet : ) Had to use my old bar and bushings with a back yard mechanic's mod that I remember doing years ago and seems to work till I get new ones. I will post a how to for those in need of a quick cheap fix.

Ok I ran into a problem, the muztache bar I pulled of a 73 240z does not seem to be the same one that is on my early 1971? The post's in the back of the Diff housing are bigger and I wonder if the Diff is a R180 or R200 etc. ? The bar that came of my car is wider its 2.360" and the holes are bigger 0.690" compaired to the bar off the 73. The 73's bar is 1.8" wide and has 0.590" holes for the diff posts. They also seem to be bent diferently with about 1.8" difference in the bend. All other dimentions are the same bushings, overall length etc. Anyone know if its because of a different diff or was it on purpouse to allow for the sway bar to clear? The smaller one off the 73 has solid bishings and the one off my car has 2 slots through them. I would like to keep the stiffer bushings in the smaller one and maybe drill out the holes and see if it works backwards to compensate for the difference in bend? Any idea's