bobc

Bret, I'm sure somebody is going to scream about this one, but many years ago, I had the same problem. After trying just about everything, I just turned the engine over. The compression popped it free in about 1 second. I don't know if anyone else has ever tried this, but thought I'd share... Best, Bob

Seriously guys and gals, the founder of the Z Car Club of Inland Valley and others have worked very hard to get our cars in several shows and the Huntington Beach Concours is one of them. He (club founder) received a call a couple of weeks ago saying that the show was concerned because not many Z cars had signed up. If we don't play, we won't be invited back to these shows! And, if we want to earn more respect for our marque we need to attend shows both within and even more importantly outside of Z shows. I wasn't going because I entered both my cars last year, but based on Bart's message, I entered my 1970. It's a really good show. There was an Enzo and a Bugatti there last year. BTW, I think the deadline for entries was Friday, but call Bart anyway. You may can still get in! Hope to see you all there. Best, Bob

Stephen, I agree. You don't want to sell "your baby" to someone who is going to destroy it, but in reality what can you really do? Once you sell it, are you going to require the buyer to send you pictures and mileage records once a year??? Once it's gone, it's gone and the new owner can do anything they want to with it, so I don't know why people put things like that in their ads. Also, the VZ on ebay has been pulled off. It says by the seller because it is no longer available for sale. I've written the seller to see if I can get the rest of the story. I'll post if I find out. Randy won't sell me his lime green VZ (at least not yet!), so I was seriously considering taking mine down to the body and having it resprayed lime-green and then putting it back together. I couldn't do it any cheaper buying another car and it certainly would never have the quality of parts a VZ starts with. And, I doubt it would have seriously hurt the value of the car. Now that idea really upset some people! Just noticed that mine, I'm going to have to get used to saying my former! Best, Bob

Well this one should prove interesting...Carl and I both know where these pictures were taken. But, the purchaser does live in Ma., so maybe it is real. It would sure be an incredibly low price for this car to start with because we also know what the seller paid for it and what the current owner paid for it. I understand he's put it on ebay before but the starting price was considerably more and took it off after one day after having second thoughts. I can't say that for a fact, because I didn't see it. Now, an update. I did sell my VZ yesterday. For the naysayers, I'll just say I'm very happy with the price, but the buyer is happy too, which is the way I wanted it to come out. I'm sure the price will leak eventually. It should help increase the value of our cars. Second thoughts on selling it? Oh a thousand or more and if the purchase fell through I would be just as happy as I am with selling it. One day when it's worth $300K or so, I'm sure I'll be kicking the heck out of myself. I learned that selling on ebay is quite an experience and in fact selling a car on ebay doesn't necessarily mean you sell it during the auction, but after when you start getting emails offering to purchase it. :laugh: I'll be watching this one on line for sure! Best, Bob

Jon, IMHO, you should be able to get your Z running in an acceptable heat range without the shroud. I think starting with your current radiator is a good course of action. Have it boiled and rodded out if necessary. Pull the water plug on the drivers side of the engine, take off the thermostat housing and run water through the block several times and let it drain out. I've had these problems in the past, and these steps have solved them. I've also used water wetter and it isn't bad either. I believe the 8 bladed fan started with the v-3 kit that was developed for the 1973 240Z to help with overheating and vapor lock. That isn't a bad idea either and few if any will notice it. Also make sure your fan clutch is working as well. Things not to do: Flush the block with caustic chemicals Punch holes in the hood to let more air flow through Take out the thermostat entirely Think a 160 degree thermostat will solve the problem Not believe the guage Ignore the problem until you blow a head gasket! My experience has been you can spend a lot of time, money, and effort coming up with band aids (I've done it!) or you can focus on the core problem and fix it. Bob

Just checked further. Both the Haynes and Clymer manuals specifically state not to use anything on the gasket. The 1970 Datsun Service manual says to spread sealing agent (whatever that is) on the block, put on the gasket, and then put sealing agent on the gasket (head side) before installing the head. I used the Haynes manual many years ago, so I don't think I used a gasket sealer. I was thinking about when I replaced the intake manifold on my Mustang. I know I used copper sealing gasket spray on those gaskets. I think you did the right thing not using anything on the gasket. Bob

Bill, It's been a while since I've done this job, but I seem to recall that I did use a spray sealer on the gasket. Looks like fel pro has three types of head gaskets as well, so this might affect if you use a sealant or not. If the instructions say to use one, then you should. Still suspect the head, however. Bob

I know this is probably a stupid question but why is it in two parts? Mike, you are planning on putting a PADI logo in that Marine Life tat aren't you? Bob

Thanks Randy, I cleaned it up and used a white cloth rag this time! Haven't had time to get under it to take a picture. Bob

Two teenagers walking up to the Japanese sports cars: One to the other, "Cool, those are Datsuns" Other: "What are Datsuns?" Reply: "That's what they used to call them before they changed the name to Toyota!" I was going to post under the jokes section, but unfortunately this is a true story! :laugh: Best, Bob

Sorry, meant to say head! Good luck! Bob

Thought I'd give you guys an update. There's 155 people watching the auction. I bet at least 154 of them belong to this club! I've had several offers that are above the minimum that I may consider if I don't hit my reserve, but nobody's even bid on it yet! I'm hoping it's that "post your bid in the last 15 seconds" ebay syndrome thing! Best, Bob

Have to agree with Gus. At this point I would suspect the block isn't straight. While taking it to a machine shop will give you the best answer, You really don't have to do that. Just set a straight edge down the length of it and see if you see a gap of light between the block and the straight edge. For the size of leak you're describing, I bet you will be able to see it. I would use that to rule in the problem, not rule it out. Let the machine shop rule it in or out definitively. If it's already been shaved once, it might be time to get a new cylinder head. You don't want to get it too shaved or your going to have problems with the valves hitting the top of the pistons. Bob

Bill, That's got to be frustrating. Not sure from you post, but is the leak continuous? If not, before you take it all apart, suggest you try pressuring the coolant system to see if it holds pressure. Wouldn't suggest starting it. Something must be really amiss if you have a continuous leak with no pressure in the system. Sounds like the head or block (probably head) is warped, cracked or the head gasket got torn or twisted when you put it together. Are you sure it's leaking between the head and block. Could it be coming from the elbow fitting for the heater? Hang in there, you'll get it back together. Bob

Hey Chris and Carl, You guys are making it very tough for me to sell this car. Geeezzzz!!! Bob:classic:

Jerry, You're right. It came from Mena, Arkansas and I can personally vouch that you can't get there from anywhere! Danny is a great guy. Price was more than you posted, but I'm not telling! :laugh: Bob P.S. I'm back to my good old BRG!

Thanks eveyone! This has sure been an interesting road to travel so far and it's only been one day. To all that have commented, thank you. I keep getting emails from people who tell me they sold or bought their Z for significantly less and that I'm dreaming if I think I can sell it for this. Well, I guess everyone's entitled to an opinion, but I have no idea why anyone would take the time to write an email like that. It just seems weird. Do you think they'd complain if their neighbor sold his house for a really high price so the value of their house went up too? Hmmm, I just don't get it. All of your comments have seriously started me rethinking this decision, so don't be surprised if I change my mind about selling it. About the gas tank, I'm embarrassed. I used a shop rag to wipe it off and some of the red lint pulled out into the undercoating. I need to clean it off again with a towel. The flash really makes that show up. Bad on me!!! FYI, I think there are something like 47 people watching the auction now. Best to all. And even I sell it, I've still got a 70 Z, so I plan to still be here!:laugh:

Might be. Here's a pic from their website Bob

Oh come on Hanns, what's 820+hp in a Z? I wouldn't call that a little wild! Also, from 10 feet back it looks pretty bone stock, unless the engines running! I bet there's many a Mustang, Camaro, etc. that is still trying to figure out how a 240z kicked their butt.... Great seeing you yesterday and congrats on the win! Best, Bob

Will's got it. That's a stripped 72 hubcap. Don't know where the center cap came from. If you want to restore them, see Les at Classic Datsun for the correct paint. Bob

That has to be the funniest ad I've ever seen on ebay. I'm still laughing! Zup, no offense intended, but you must not know Randy Jaffe very well. No way, he would cut a hole in a door panel or put on a dash cover. I'm sure Carl is laughing about that one too! Bob

Recently changed both sets of wheels on my Z's. The green Z currently has the Libre wheels and I just put the original steel wheels and D hubcaps on the red one. So, in comparison to the slot mags and other mags (not sure what you'd call them) what do you think? Also, first time I've had both Z's at the house along with my Viper. It's amazing how many lines the Z and Viper share

Ok, I put my D hubcaps on today and they look great. Picture coming. Anyway, the valve stems barely poke out through the hubcap. There's no way I'm going to be able to get a hose on there to put air in the tire. For some reason, I seem to recall that when I had my original 72 Z it came with an extender you could screw onto the stem. Am I dreaming this? The valve stem is 1 1/4 inches long. Is there a longer one? Any suggestions? Bob

Yes they do. Unfortunately, I don't think you can buy the gaskets separately and even if you could you'd either have to cut them or drill out a brad to put them on. It looks like the gasket was put on then the handle attached to the unit. I ended up just buying new handles. Added bonus, they look really good. I didn't realize how much the old handles detracted from the exterior. Good luck! Bob

Good advice Carl! I just put American Racing Libre's on my Z and I went out and bought new mag wheel lug nuts (wheels didn't come with them). After I put the first one on, I noticed the nuts were too long. There was still play between the wheel and the hub. As Carl so apply points out, you will only find two kinds in most any of the after market auto parts store and they may not work. I ended up going to a very large specialty wheel store in So Cal. They had a bag full of the nuts with the shorter shaft, so I bought a complete set. Suggest if you can't find them at your normal Autozone, Cragin's etc. give a specialty wheel retailer a try. Good luck! Bob