RogerZ

follow the cable all the way back to the tranny and be sure there are no kinks or extreme bends in it. Had that problem on a couple z's and found cable had not been routed correctly putting undue pressure on it. Also you can put a drill on the cable end at the tranny and vary the speed to see if it is tracking. there is a legend on the speedo itself stating that at X rpm it will read 60 mph. Be sure it is fully engaged at the transmission end and also on the speedo end. If installed loosely it won't be accurate usually.

Yes the 2+2 and the turbo both use a 240 mm clutch plate versus the 225 MM plate used on the n/a machines. Flywheel is the same just have more contact area due to the larger plate.

can buy a z but owner says needs a fuel pump to run. got a zx pump. will it mount handily on a z or will I need to duct tape somewhere long enough to get to my house.

pretty good advice above but if you are a fairly novice wrench not as straightforward as Jimmyz said. See if there is a local z club you can often find a member who is willing to look over your shoulder for advice and moral support. Otherwise junkyard. There is a a guy in tennesee (but I lost the link)who has a bunch of z's and sells parts. try doing a search might be called zbarn or something like that. http://www.zbarn.com/ actually did find the link. Tennesee is somewhere in the vicinity of WVa if I remember my geography. and they ship.

Find a car with a good body and no engine do a swap.

there are two washer motors One for the front and one for the back plus the connections for the float switch. someone may have miswired or otherwised fubared the set up. Hot wire the pump motors direct to see if they work. They are a small vane pump. If you don't have a rear wiper not sure what they did all my 280 had the rear wiper but I believe some didn't. It is easiest just to pull the tank out and work on the stuff on the bench. clean all connectors obviously.

180 K on the l6 engine isn't that much. Depends what you want to do with it. Twere me I'd look at the valves while the head is off and see if any are burned. I'd replace the valve seals. If she were running good before the gasket failed that would be all I'd do and in the meantime look for another engine. Rebuild that at your leisure and then you are ready for sswap when you feel up to it.

common problem. after the fact you need to put a piece of wood down there to keep the tensioner in place. There are some posts from someone who says you can get it back in there with a couple of long thin screwdrivers. I had no luck trying that but give it a shot. Otherwise pull the radiator pull the cover pull the fan. bite the bullet. smack yourself in the forehead saying why didn't I read the post first.

an easier (in mho) is to leave the meter betwixt the batt cable and batt post and start pulling fuses until the drain goes away. course first time you might want to have a 8 amp fuse between the meter and the battery in case total draw is more than that. most meters got internal fuse but safer to have another.

it will change your shift points but should still go and do something. If you are talking about the vacuum modulator. something else is wrong if the tranny worked and all you did was change the engine out. when you say it doesn't shift what do you mean. Can't get going or goes but won't up shift or?????????. Only two things that I know of are the vacuum modulator and the kick down solenoid. If the kickdown solenoid is out then it will be a dog off the line and won't shift out of second unless you rev it up a lot. Still got fluid in it?????????

probably the column switch has something amiss. The 82-83 i believe used one flasher relay for both systems whereas the earlier cars had two one for hazard one for turning. It is kinda hidden up under the dash behind the steering column not readily visible.

strange but true. the clutch fork fulcrum pin on my 85 z31 broke. Sorta worked until one dark and stormy night at Oh Dark Thirty when it let go all the way. But you got to pull the tranny to find out so when you do that to check the clutch might tap that with a ball peen to see if it is sound.

Put the torch to it. then whack it with an air hammer. then bounce a four foot piece of 4x4 off it a couple times. that worked for me. it is sort of a ball joint that gets really rusted together. Happened on my zx's also the heat plus rattling it with the air hammer all around busted the rust.

take the wire off the sensor turn on the ignition. ground the wire gauge should max.

If it doesn't even turn over god only knows. I'd disconnect the fuel pump and hot wire the starter just to see if you get a crank. load test the battery. make sure all battery cables are clean tight and corrosion free. If you didn't fry the ecu you should get something The engine should at least turn over