andrewg3300

Yeah it is def broke. Its the white plastic piece that is hooked to the rod that is broke. I have tried to repair it with glue but it didnt work.I think my baby girl pulled down on it too far when she wasplaying in there. Lesson Learned. Never let your Kidstrash you r car. thanks for the help. I will prolly buy it and try it.

yeah thats 100$ dif in 70-71 and 72-73

My turn signal switch broke in my 73 240. I am looking at a 71 switch on ebay does any body know if it will fit? Ihere are a few pics.I need help cuase the law man has pulled me over and he gave me a warning to get it fixed. I dont wont to pay any more tickets. Can i wire it up to fit? help me please.

WOW! I think he is secretly in love with Z stuff and his ebay sale is just a cover up. Kinda like a gay guy being married years before he comes out about it. This guy sounds like he just wants to come out too. LMAO.

Here are a few more pics of my progress. The first two are before, and the next two are after a little elbow grease, and beating and pulling ect.... It still needs a lot of work but I think I have a good start. Any suggestions are welcome. And what about the lead that molded the seem above the small window. does that need to go back with lead for added strength, or can I fiberglass the hell out of it? I hope I got these pics right.

Are they stock SUs? vapor lock?

dang i accidently put my goat on there. sorry. his name is LITTLE BALL.

Well i got a few pics. I am debating wether to fix the old one or buy a new one. I dont think it is too far from repair but a new(good used) one would be much more practical)and more money).i can do some body work but money is tight and everything like that so i think will attempt to beat and bog the old one. here are a few pics of my progress. i hope you enjoy. its not as hard as it looks but dirty as HELL.

hey i have a book on it. if you are refering to the 2 aluminum or steel, 0.5" thick, then they are supossed to go between the front crossmember and the car body(frame rails). they lower the front crossmember (engine) 0.5" it allows for the engine to be in the setback position. hope that helps

Hey, this prolly wont help but, My 73 240 was acting the same way yours is and i thought it was fuel too rich/too lean, but it turned out to be my pionts in the dist. they were burnt out bad. so i changed the pionts and it ran better but there wasnt something right because it would bog down and smoked when i hammered on it. finnaly, i fixed the prob by adjusting the timing back on the dist. it was set way to fast. hope it helps

I will start keeping my eye open for a decent shell, but it is truly a job to find a car with minimal rust. catch 22. but you are both right. thanks for the help yall. i do have my eye on one but like i say the undercarriage is rusted worse than mine. thanks again. OUT

here are a few pics of the rear roll pan and spare tire area. i hope this helps with advice and such. i only wish i knew more. all the help i have got so far has been better than great. thanks.

hey i will put some new pics on in a few. Yes the gas tank is pushed in and the metal around the spare tire is pushed in a little. This is because before i bought the car someone rear ended the car and tried to cover it up with sheet metal. If you look in the picture where the rear roll pan is There is alot of damge. I believe that the previous owner got rear eneded and didn't bother to tell me, now i have to deal with his problem and mine. So the right side is down a bit and that is why i think i need to start with a fresh panel. What about the metal around my spare tire? I will go take some pic to help explain what i am talking about. Thanks a mill

four doors are good if you have as many kids as i do.

well, I know what you mean. that is one reason i have been putting the v8 swap off. because the straight 6 hasnt failed me yet.I dont want to waist it all on cheap trills and rock and roll. besides, it is a dailly driver. i wont get rid of the motor/trans untill it quits or i get a good offer on them.

north of texarkana, 35 miles or so. the military carried me to ft hood tx. but i visit the folk quite frequently.thanks

hey I have been planning to v8 my 73. i bought the JTR book and am in the process of locating a good v8. the book is great and has details on just about every aspect of the conversion, unless you are a ford man. in that case, it will take a little more searching. nothing beats cubic inches man. go for it. the wieght to power ratio is nice. and the extra wieght isnt too much for a good and solid suspenstion as long as yu have a staight, strong, rust free frame/body. good luck with that.\ hua

welcome. I am kinda new too. this is a great place to be. lots of smart people. alot smarter thn me anyway. good luck with that header. i have my eye on one myself. hua

I really dig it. reminds me of a beamer. A very nice car and the mirrors on the fender make my engine rev.

thanks for the input. I like to try things and see what I can do. this sounds like a pretty involved task. I would like to take to a shop but I am forced to to do this on my own(money). I am going to be patient and see how far I get. Hey, BTW can anyone tell me what "bog" means

"i suggest home handy work by knocking out your dents from the inside and seeing your handy work with bog." I hate to ask, but I dont have a clue what "work with bog" means. They dont each that word in Arkansas. But to think of it, they dont teach much there anyway.

thanks for the help. i have a limited budget so i will prolly do the cut and paste idea. it seems like the least expensive. thanks to all.

A while back, my car came out of gear and rolled into my neighbors house. I have surveyed the damage and decided something major needs to be done. I have talked to a few poeple about it, and some say I need a quarter pannel, and some say i can bring those dents out. But i dont really know what i should do. Can someone give me some advice? I am handy with tools and grinders so if it can be done i will do it. i just want to know what to do. thanks. im trying to put on a few pics

you make a very good piont. it is posible that they were both 350s. that is almost 1/4 inch(.23) w2hat about the distance from the center of the crank to the top of the bore. that would make a difference right? i dont know but you must be right. both 350s, it is the only logical idea.

thanks. All i changed in the engine, basiclly was the crankshaft. The pistons/wrist pins/rods were all left alone. they didnt have much play. Im guessing that a 350 crank has a longer through than a 327 crank. that would change the distance the rod traveles up the cylinder right?