morfirst

I have a 1972 stock differential that needs a rebuild (shim) kit. I called the local Nissan dealership, motorsport, z-barn, and other local parts store without success. Any ideas?

I contacted ZandZXparts in Glendale, Ca.. (garykaz@pacbell.com) He assures me it will work. He sent me a remanufactured 79 280ZX distributor with the E12 93 Ign module. To quote "I have been doing this for 18 years, trust me." He also stated he could send me the E12 80 if it would satisfy me, but he is sure the current set up will work. Why do these things always happen to me?!

I purchased an electronic distributor for my 72 240Z from a zcar salvage yard in california. I received a distributor with an Ign module of E12-93 marking, a separate distributor mounting piece, a 12 volt coil and mount. When I talked to the person over the phone, I explicity requested a distributor from a 79 280ZX with an Ign module marked E12-80 or older. The distributor did not come with a cap. I assume that since the module is marked E12-93, that the part is off of 1993 300ZX. Will this work, or did I get taken? Also, the Ign module has terminals marked C/B and two marked I/W. As I understood it, the C/B terminals are the terminals for the coil. What would I do with the I/W terminals? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I stopped using lead substitute with the original valves. Am I inviting problems? People have told me that if you don't run your engine "hard" that it is not necessary.

Last week I asked about Weber carburetors and decided to keep my SU's which are working just fine. I want to ask people's opinion on investing $390 for a Crane 86-000 cam. The claim is as much as 10% increase in H.P. I assume the valves would require new settings.

Balancing triple weber carbs isn't a challenge not requiring constant adjustment? What kind of horsepower increase could I expect from this conversion, if at all?

Does anyone know what the "orange" paint code is for a 1972 240Z? I believe that it is a ppg product known as "mexican orange".

I know this is not the first time this question has been asked. Does anyone have an opinion on a $740.00 investment to purchase the weber dual DGV carb kit for the 240? I have been told that the horsepower output can be increased by 10 to 15%. Also, what about winter driving since the carb input air will no longer be pre-heated over the exhaust manifold?

I ran a flexible clear braided hose from the valve cover to a plastic "tee" hose fitting. Off of the "tee" I ran two short lengths of hose to two "90 degree" plastic hose fittings that terminates on the metal back plate of each individual carb air filter. The down side to this is that you should rountinely check any carbon residue buildup within the fittings. I have had this setup for 6-7 months, so far it works great without any significant build up. I believe the "tee" fitting has a 1/2" inlet and two 1/4" outlets. In my opinion, it looks pretty good.

The front RH and the light on the dash turn signal indicator is working. Only the rear light is not working. This would indicate the turn signal switch is O.K. ? The bulb is brand new even though the previous bulb filament was still good.

The rear passenger side turn signal stopped working. However, the hazard fuction still works. I tried changing the flasher unit with no luck. Has anyone else encountered this problem.

The noise is more like a "whining" sound. At times, it is intermittent. I had the pinion bearings in the differential changed out and this had a limited positive affect. On a side note, should the dashpot needle for the SU's be flush with the bottom grooved surface or flush with the overall bottom surface?

I have a 1972, 240z with approx. 95,000 miles. The car has a high mechanical decibel level when the transmission/clutch is engaged. Other than that, the car seems to be running fine. I have been thinking about using synthetic engine oil and transmission fluid. I know this has probably been asked before, but is there a downside with synthetics on the 240's engine/transmission seals and gaskets.

I am at the point of using a razor blide knife to trim the stripping for a better fit. I realize this is dangerous considering the time and aggrevation involved in replacing the weather stripping, but I don't see an alternative.

I recently replaced the door seals and "welting" on my 240. However, now you have to "slam" the door in order for it to close flush with the body. Has anyone else had this problem?