morfirst

I just installed a set of foam filters on my SU's that I salvaged from a 71 Z. I definitely like they way they improve the looks of the carburetors. I haven't been able to drive the car in a couple of weeks because the seats are at the upholsterer. I hope it will make a little bit of difference. As far as the filtering is concerned, if you normally drive the z, and regularly check the filters, I don't see this as a major issue. I certainly don't plan to race my 72 on any dirt track. Could somebody give me some insight on how to "oil" the foam filters and where to find replacements?

Is it worth changing the carb piston springs? I did not change these out when I rebuilt the carbs.

My '72 240Z is running pretty good after I have rebuilt the carbs. However, when I come to a stop, the idle stays around 1000 rpm unless I apply a little rev to the engine and then it falls down to 750-800 rpm. Also, the rpm has a little flucuation at idle. Anyone have any ideas?

Does anyone know if the AC system significantly loads the engine?

After checking on the parts cost to swap out the 4.11 to a 3.364, I think I'll go to a junkyard that has a 71 240Z and see if it has the 3.364 rearend. If it does, then I would be interested in selling the 4.11 limited slip rearend.

It is a limited slip, and I think I'll hold on to it. My plan is to keep the limited slip and replace the differential gears.

After further investigation, I believe that I have a 4.11 differential ratio. I plan to use this car as an everyday driver, so I am thinking about changing the ratio back to a 3.364. Currently, I am not using first gear for normal street driving. If I swapped out the differential to a 3.364, I believe that I would start using first gear again, making up for any acceleration lost with a 4.11 diff. in second gear. Does anyone have an opinion?

As I understand it, the higher the gear number, the more teeth and thus larger gear diameter. So the limited slip has a larger gear diameter than stock differential?

Yes, it is the standard four speed transmission. I'm not sure about the differential except that it is limited slip.

From the original owners manual for a 1972 240Z, it indicates that first gear max. mph is 38, second gear is 60 mph, and 3rd gear is 95 mph. My Z's first gear is winding out at about 15mph, my second is 33 mph, and third is probably around 55 0r 60 mph. It's at the point where I don't use the first gear. What kind of gear speed range are others experiencing?

For a head rebuild, I would purchase new valve guides, new valve seats, new springs and required gaskets. Of course, I would have the valves refurbished. Does anyone have an opinion on other items that might be needed?

Hey, all super heroes have to make certain sacrifices! Think how hard it is for superman to completely change his appearance to pass for Clark Kent.

The fuel/air mixture ejects from the carburetor throat when I "race" the throttle. Do you know the approximate number of turns the mixture nut should be backed off from it's "set" position? I have heard various information.

Could it be the use of ATF fluid instead of 2 in1 oil?

I have been adjusting the SU carbs only to find that at times the fuel/air mixture "backfires" and is ejected out of the throat of the carburetors. I just rebuilt the carbs and field adjusted the float tabs. Also, I went to Autozone and replaced the rubber tubing from the float bowl to the jet. The new tubing has a somewhat smaller inside diameter than the originals. Could this be my problem?

I've noticed that some people have installed front panel side mirrors on their Z's. Personally, I'm undecided if this enhances the appearance of the Z. Does anyone care to provide their opinions?

I like the 2+2 as much as the coupe. I had a 1974 260Z 2+2 that I regret letting a friend borrow on a saturday night while I was at work. Need I say more. Those two seats in the rear really come in handy and the stretch look grows on you. After I finish with my restoration on the 72 240Z, I will be in the market for a 2+2.

Good luck with the varnish in the fuel lines.

I pulled the fuse box cover to verify my instruments fuse. One of the fuse leads, labeled as the "Tail Light" fuse partially melted the plastic base and was hot to the touch. I plane to use a digital volt meter to measure the voltage to ground at the fuse point and the current passing through the fuse. I am also planning to change out the fuse box with a new one, which from MSA is approx. $90.00 . Has anyone ever changed the fuse box? If so, how are the conductors terminated? Is is hardwired or through a wiring harness plug?

Is there a better tool to use than the crowfoot that "snap on" offers?

Is a snap on crowfoot open wrench with a 3/8" drive extension a good tool to use for valve adjustment?

Thanks 2manyzs for the dzus fasteners idea. I didn't want to install the headlight covers without an easy removal method. Is the cover mechanically attached to the fastener ?

I've been thinking about installing clear headlight covers. Does anyone have an opinion?

I'll try to find out. I have the original maintenance manual for my 72, if I look hard enough I may be able to find the answer. My guess is that it is an interference engine. But the risk should be minimized considering it is a timing chain as compared to a belt.

Does anyone know if the 240Z engine is a non-interference engine? In other words, if the timing chain breaks, no damage will occur between the valves and pistons.