mperdue

Anyone going to Dallas? I would like to attend one event, maybe the car show. Is the car show where the judging and awarding takes place for the various categories (stock, driver, modified etc)?

I've got one I could sell you. PM your email address and I'll email you a picture tomorrow. I'm not sure if it's the one you want or not (it is for Hitachi SU's but there were several different ones). michael

And I still haven't turned the motor over (though I'm REALLY close.) The baby brought that project to a very slow crawl.

Aussie Zed, You lost me a little there or you're getting your radii and diameters mixed up. Did you mean to say 1.15xDiameter, not 0.15xDiameter? You said that is the radius of the bell mouth - so at 0.15x1.75" (for Z SU's) that's 0.2625" radius or 0.525" diameter. That is smaller than the 1.75" intake! Or if you mean that is the difference between the bellhouse radius and intake radus that gives you 0.2625" larger radius, or 0.525" larger diameter for a total of 2.275" diameter. That's a ratio of ~1.3:1 (bell max ID to intake). I don't think the first 2 have that ratio of bell max ID to intake diameter but the third one is between 1.3 and 1.4. It's not nearly as long/deep as the air horn though. The more I think about it leads me to believe the real answer is any of them are better than nothing and probably none would show a considerable difference in performance for my application. Thansk for the help.

I've heard that in general the ram jets aren't designed for use with aftermarket filters such as K&N because they stick out so far that it restricts air flow against the back plate of the filter. Ramflo filters don't have plates out in front but the conical and oval K&Ns do (see attached pic from MSA). I thought the jets were primarily intended to be used with filter socks or some other completely open filter such as a RamFlo. But anyway my question primarily was whether the outer structure or flange area has any significant bearing on the air flow characteristics into the throat of the stub stack and carb. Meaning, assuming the inner horn shaped portion of the first 3 pictures are identical, does rest of the structure affect flow (one is just a small lip, the other is a diamond shaped raised structure and the other is a circular raised structure).

I've been looking at various stub stacks for SU's and I'm wondernig if anyone here understands the function of these things enough to know which design is best. I've attached a few representative pictures of the various designs I've seen (including a longer ram jet but I'm not really too concerned about that because it's difficult to use with an aftermarket filter such as a Ramflo or K&N). But anyway I'm wondering if the circular one is best because of the overall symmetry, or if the smaller thin cast ones have some advantage because of the smaller size and shallower mounting area. Or does nothing but the curvature and length really matter? The first one is a cast stub stack made by K&N. A similar part is available from aptfast.com for 1.75" "HS6" style Z SU's. The Billet stub stacks are also from aptfast.com as well as the ram jet (4th picture). The round one (3rd pic) is from a Mini and won't fit a Z but there maybe some out there with 1.75" bore. The are all for use with aftermarket filters of course.

I've moved my Z car paint code gallery from my site to zhome.com but I am still more or less responsible for its content. Please send me a PM if you are interested in contributing a picture. Pictures of cars with the original paint are best but matched resprays are also acceptable. Most of them in the gallery aren't original anyway. Here's the link: http://zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/index.html So far I have a 307 Blue Metallic to add and another 302 Leaf Green Metallic to add. I need 216 White, 304 Gold Metallic, 306 Silver Metallic, 362 Dark Purple Metallic, and 517 Beige Metallic to have at least one pic for each color code. I like adding 2nd pictures also to give a more balanced representation of each color so feel free to contribute even if there is already a picture for your color. Even if there are two I would choose the more clear and well framed pics of the 3 if I get another. Thanks Michael

Thanks for the in depth explanation Alan! Now I'm just trying to figure out how you British folk say "sand". I'll watch the britcoms on PBS this weekend and see what comes up. Michael

Here's the auction link by the way: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=8046484173&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT Can anyone tell me if that's a stock or aftermarket dizzy? Looks too clean to be original but I really don't know!

I've got an L28 for sale and I'm trying to figure out how to assess the value. If I take the cam cover off, what shoudl I look for exactly? I was told by the previous that it was rebuilt. What signs would there be under the cam cover? Do most aftermarket cams have a manufacturers marker and if so where shoudl I look? What can look for on the head to see if it has been re-worked? Thanks for the help. MIchael

Enigma - I found filter sheets made by UNI that I will cut to fit. I bought a coarse sheet and a fine sheet so it'll be a 2 layer filter. Yes there is rust but these were just cheapos from ebay to get me on the road. I'll probably get K&N's some day if I ever have money again (had our first baby last month so money is very limited - and probably will be for a long time!!!) datto240z - I'm not sure about that fitting you asked about. It must be some provisions for emissions, maybe something else was water cooled. Mine was blocked off when I got the car and I haven't looked it up in the manual. At some point I will probably remove it and block it off with a much smaller cap. Also you shouldn't have too much trouble finding a full GX setup (fuel rail and all) in Oz. So you may not need the Z rail! I see them up for sale at dat1200.com all the time. I am a more or less regular member there by the way. Awesome site. Here's another progress pic for fun. I completely stripped the engine bay when I did the rebuild and repainted it the color that I someday hope to paint the rest of the carcar (stock color - 305 light blue metallic). I painted the underside of the hood myself but decided to hire someone to do the engine bay for me at my house. I think my paint came out better than his. You can't see it but it has pretty severe orange peel in the engine bay. Oh well - not a show car, just for fun.

It didn't require much bending. I did it all by hand anyway I kind of messed up on the pass side where the return line connects. I thought I needed to bend it off to the left toward the fuel pump but after I bent it I realized it should have stayed straight so I bent it back, hence the curves in that line. Oh and Victor, if I went by the books this setup wouldn't be allowed. My car is exempt from exhaust fume testing because of its age but it is still required to have all original smog equipment which mine absolutely doesn't have! Most likely I'll pass through inspection anyway though. If not I can always drop it into a 1200 or B210 which would be much easier to pass. I'd love to have a 1200 and if I ever have the funds this engine will end up in one someday. Anyway, sorry for all of the OT posts! I just wanted to show how I used at least one part from my lost Z car project!! edit - Stephen and Bill, the only one I've seen recently go up into that price range was a pristine 1200 (1970-73 I think). Mine's a '79 210 which aren't worth anything at all. I've seen mint ones sell for less than $5k. Kinda like the ZX of the Z series I guess I got mine because it was cheap and have fallen in love with it anyway.

Bingo! I had to bend it a little at the front to fit around that dealy sticking up out of the thermostat housing and also had to slide the mounts around to bolt up to my engine. But the dual outlets ended up at exactly the right place to feed the carbs, which actually surprised me because the 240Z carbs are spaced further apart. Obviously not enough to make hook-up difficult. It would have been a lot more work tee off of the original fuel rail - the shape and outlet location were just wrong. I tried for a bit until I remembered I had this Z fuel rail. This was a perfect fit!

A clue - it's a stock 240Z part in a prominent position in the pictures. Saved me quite a bit of work on the installation. Keep in mind I went from a single carb to duals...

Hi Stephen. No GX head, just the stock B310 head that came on my car (reworked though). Mild Isky cam, rebuilt block and these are ZTherapy Carbs by the way Custom linkage and head shields courtesy of ZTherapy, and header from down under. Ready to install a Roadster choke, finish a few electrical details and start her up. Engine has been down for more than a year now - I just need time to work on it!

Right Victor. Still haven't spotted what I'm asking about though. Here's another pic.

This is the 210/B310 I'm working on. See anything familiar??

site seems to be down (it happens). the pic is of an old 240Z toddler (?) foot pedal car thingy. pretty neat-o.

http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=7983 no login required to view gallery images! what a concept...

918 orange.

There's the 280Zap of course (or Zappp or however it was officially spelled) from '77.

Well I went ahead and tried spraying it since the brush-on application didnt' work. I didn't have much luck there either, though a good part of that is probably due to my lack of experience spraying paint. THe first coat was too thin and didn't spread out like it was supposed to, even with ~10% thinning with xylene. And then I sprayed the second coat too thick. IT looked good at first but then it started to get REALLY bad runs. So I ended up wiping that coat off with xylene and didn't end up with enough paint to get 2 good coats on after that. So the finished product has lots of clear coat bumps all over it and bubbles in some places. Basically looks like crap. I'll probably never use it again, at least not for a smooth polished surface. I dont' recommend it unless you are very skilled with a spray gun and are good at reading layer thickness. My 2 cents. Oh and I'll probably end up sanding the valve cover smooth and spraying it with color paint some day. It's a steel valve cover so unless the clear coat is perfect and adhered properly it will rust and it will be visible. Now I know why all of the 1200/210 owners spray their covers with color and don't bother polishing them! I really wasted a lot of time, money and energy! Michael

Right after I posted this I rememberd I had a lot of Xylene which I used to remove pretty much all of the Glisten PC I had applied. IT hadn't fully dried yet and was gone after I soaked it several times. So I can probaly do another quick polish and try again maybe with a gun this time. Thanks for the advice though, but I dont' hink I'm skilled enough to paint this on no matter how I turn it or what kind of brush I use. michael

By the way don't try brushing this stuff. I just tried and it looks like complete sh!t. IT says it flows out but unless you are workign with a perfectly flat piece (metal sheet??) or very small piece it's impossible to get complete coverage with a brush without getting runs, drips and partially dried pulled films. I'm really pissed. I spent a lot of time polishing just to end up ruining it with this crap. michael