mperdue

I thought those connectors looked a little weird. Well I've got a tube bender so maybe I can come up with something that looks nice myself. No huge rush on the pictures. I can only work on my car for a short time on Saturdays anyway and I've got lots of wiring to straighten out anyway. michael

Thanks stephen and ponchovisa. I would still be interested in seeing pictures of you catch tank in case I can find an electric pump I can afford. michael

I was goign to put a guage on a "tee" from one of the 2 lines, to get a true pressure reading of the fuel line pressure (or mabe both if I can come up with 2 gauges). But I guess if you trust that both outputs are really identical you could do as you suggest, tee both carbs off of one output and gauge the other. But putting the gauge on the real fuel line does let you see if there is a problem such as a leak or something. So probably the best solution is to tee both carbs off of one output and put the gauge on that line also. So why did I get a dual regulator?? real reason - cheap deal on ebay ! You say no need for a return with an electric, but waht about with a mechanical? IS there any sort of incompatibility between a mech pump and a regulator? Maybe if there's no return on the mech pump output it can cause excessive load or stress on the mech pump? I would like to see the breather setup photos. I'll PM my email address. Thanks for the help - MIchael

Wow, awesome bit of info Stephen - thanks! I hadn't heard that they were available here even through Nissan Motorsports. Hope you don't mind if I relay this info to the 1200 forum. They may find it interesting as well. I wish there were a picture showing the manifold so I could compare it to mine. If you have any more info on this please pass it along to me (off line if you like so we don't post too much off topic stuff here - I try to limit my non-z posts at least to info that is directly applicable to Z's...) Michael

I'm working on a dual Hitachi SU setup for my 210 (Z Therapy carbs - they are beautiful by the way but I haven't had a chance to run them yet). Anyway, I'm working on the fuel line setup now. I've got a Holley dual output fuel regulator and I'm wondering if when using this if there's any need for a fuel return line to the tank. It seems to me that using the fuel line will do 2 things. First it forces me to join the 2 dual outputs from the regulator to join them both to the return line. I dont' see the point in that - might as well have a single output regulator in that case. Also it means that the regulator has to maintain pressure not only in the short fuel lines going to the carbs but also the the entire return line back to the tank. Anyone done this before who can offer some advice? BTW at this point I am using the stock mechanical fuel pump, though when I have money somewhere down the road I'll probably switch over to an electric. Thanks for the help - Michael Here's a pic of my SUs just for fun. They look like nasty flat tops but they're relaly the same as round tops (notice they float bowls aren't integrated like on the crap Z flat tops). These are 510 SSS carbs, desmogged Had to get a manifold from Australia because they never had A series SU's in the US, only JDM and Oz as far as I know.

The main difference for touch up might be how you prep your car to paint over it. You could have a problem if you spray one type over another without a sealer or special primer to make it adhere properly. Chris - Is Alkyd Enamel different from Acryllic Enamel or is it 2 ways of saying the same thing?

I'm in dallas but dont' have a Z anymore. Hope to again some day though. I'm in the lower greenville area. I know of 3 or 4 240Z's in my immediate area (nice brown '73 parked right on greenville ave every night near my house). Know a guy in Garland with a 240Z and 280Z (has my rotisserie right now...). And a few others here and there. There's a z car mechanic in the Irving area but i can't think of the name of his shop right now. He works on '70 to '83 Z's and ZX's. Join the ZCOT but be prepared to suffer through a lot of 300/350ZX talk. I didn't get much out of the 2 meetings I went to except I met a guy who has been some help to me. michael edit: found the shop Z-Car World (972) 438-7583 1723 Peters Rd Irving, TX Map

Thanks guys - but I hope no one bought anything from me for the sake of charity. I really just need to get rid of parts and think for the most part I am selling at low/fair prices. BTW the surgery went fine. It turn out the chunk of bone I broke off in my foot was bigger than they thought so it wasn't so difficult to reattach. Gross huh? I'll be off work monday and tuesday and if I can get aroudn by then I'm goign to try to get the rest of my parts listed.

Yeah the ones that have the continuous body-bed are called "utes". They were never available in the US unfortunately but still have a big following in Japan, Oz and New Zealand. Actually Nissan is still making a ute called the "1400 Bakkie" in South Africa.

I think this is a little different. From the description it's got lots of LEDs actually connected to the rim (not free spinning) that are pulsed on and off so that as the wheel turns you see the full image. Probably takes a moderate amount of computational power to draw them out since the timing depends on the constantly changing wheel rotation speed. I think it's pretty coo as far as the technology goes anyway. Different programmable images. What would be cool is if they gave you an application to draw out your own images. I'm sure that will come at some point, and multiple colors woudl be nice.

Anyone want to bid it up just to see the reserve? I think you can cancel bids. I'm kind of scared to try it myself.

If you shave the piston and deck the block the same amount you will increase compression (effectively reducing the dish on the piston). If you just shave the piston you will lower compression because you will be increasing the combustion chamber size. Compression is (VCC+VD)/VCC where CC and D are combustion chamber and displacement volumes. An example CC=1 and D=8, compression is (8+1)/1 = 9. Say you increase the CC to 1.2 (by shaving pistons for example). Then compression is (8+1.2)/1.2 = 7.67. Displacement won't change no matter what you change with the pistons, deck, head etc (EDIT unless of course you change the pistom diameter which will affect displacement ).

Here's my suspension hardware spreadsheet I used to order replacement parts from midwest z. Shows p/n from the microfiche and the superceeding number available now (or actually 2 years ago), along with the microfiche sheet nubmers and ref numbers in the columns on the right. I can attach an excel if anyone wants it but need to know the format. i took the price columns out but they could be added. MPerdue NOV03 Order MWZ1.pdf

Hey TXZ. I think it's static but I'm not 100% sure. Try this link: http://www.datsunprojects.org/forsale/ or this one: http://www.datsunprojects.org/forsale/index.html Either of those work? But I'm pretty much finished updating it for now. Maybe I'll finish while I'm off work for a week limping around the house. MIchael

After my 3rd opinion this morning I've decided to go ahead w/ the surgery. For those who don't knwo it's nothing major - just had an unusual foot injury and a piece of bone needs to reattached to the bone it broke off of, or be removed - kind of depends on how much it's already healed (it's been 5 weeks...) But anyway it'll be next Thursday so I won't be on my feet again for at least a week after that. I'll try to close up all of the current deals I've got going on by next wednesday. I may go ahead with another page update tonight but that'll probably be it for a little while. And could you guys who were having trouble accessing the site try it now? I removed the page counter thingy. That was probably the problem. Were you all using Internet Exploerer, Firefox or something else? Michael

It's all basic HTML except for a javascript thing that I use as a counter at statcounter.com. maybe somethign in that script is giving you trouble. I'll have my server admin look into it. Thanks Michael

Zak coudl you post here what the problem is? I'd like to fix it if it's a problem with the site. Thanks Michael

You realize you have to take them apart right? The c-clamps were so difficult for me to remove I had to take them to a driveshaft shop. They had clamps to put on that fit fine. Otherwise hose clamps will work though the ones they ended up using for me were a special clamp that sort of crimp on. Here's a pic. michael

I got a second opinion this morning and was told that my surgery may not be required at all. So if any of you were buying parts just to help me out let me know if you dont' want them and I can refund money (I haven't shipped anythign yet but have 3 boxes ready to go tonight). But I'm hoping all of you interested in parts actually need/want the parts and I think the prices are fair and/or negotiable. Michael

I've got a rolled fender you can have for free Sorry none in good usable condition. My fenders are all gone. ANd the project is gone - never finished it. Got pretty far and then a lot of other things got in tht way. IT was really sad to see it go but then again I got a lot of great experience out of the project - and it was a lot of fun. Here's my goodbye pic: bye! Good to hear you got your problem straightened out. You still in the lower greenville area? Michael

Hey Guys - I'm doing my best to keep up with requests. Please be patient. For some items I'm getting multiple requests and at this point I just have to call a part sold even if I don't have the money yet because otherwise I just won't be able to keep up. I will be getting back to everyone though. Michael

Thanks Steve- Montoya - here's a list as of right now, but the pic links won't work unless you can access the site. I don't understand why you can't though. I'm workign on another update right now with more parts. 4.11 R180 Diff $200 4 speed tranny $45 Plastic int panels Drivers side plastic panel intake manifold $25 intake manifold $20 Stock steelies $25/set overhead plastic panels passenger side plastic panel 1/4 window plastic panels door/window chrome surround trim $20 for 4 added 10/13/05 fuse box $20 - another pic fusebox cover defrost switch indicator lights - another pic drivers side valence and light air filter housings $25 for all shown wiring harness another wiring harness red sun visors $10 vents $5 glovebox door steering colum cover$10 handbrake $10 wipers with new NISSAN squeegee holders (not sure what that part is called) inner fender guards 1 is dented but bother are VERY solid metal - another pic added 10/14/05 repainted rear finisher panels - decent $30 2 more sets some pieces with nice chrome - $20 both sets headlight bucket - another pic seatbelts with broket plastic - $10/set mirror some pits $10 luggage straps $10 rear park lights decent condition $20/pair strut caps - $5/pair - another pic antenna condition unknown w/ 240Z adaptor - $10 black vinyl sun visors $10 black interior vinyl some nice $25 rear view mirror $5

Here's a pic of my radiator. $30 cash today if possible. email here: email Also a pic of the fan and water pump. Maybe you can tell if it's what you need. Michael PS. Don't you havea read 240Z? I think I sold you a fender a couple of years ago. I'm still in the same area of Dallas but not the same place.

I can't send you an email or PM as far as I can tell. I don't want to post phone or email here so send me a message by pm or email. Michael