mperdue

From what I saw you're not missing too much from z.com. Only thing of value I saw was the road and track finder. The rest is a not much more than a 350Z ad.

Who doens't know Mad MIke? Well, at least anyone who's been to a ZCOT meeting would know him - he's pretty hard to miss. Don't really know him personally but since I plan on joining the club soon I'll probably get to know all of these guys better.

I'll send you a PM. I didn't realize you were in the Dallas area. There are lots of helpful guys in the Z club or Texas.

Hi Rolf, I tried aluminum oxide, glass bead and like I said regular old sand. I had about the same results for all of them except the glass bead is much cleaner as far as dust goes. I didn't have any problems warping the metal because I was working at moderate pressure. But I didn't see any real benefit of the bead or aluminum oxide over the sand besides the dust problem. Not sure what you mean by quartz sand - as I understand it, sand is basically glass with lots of impurities, and quartz is crystallized glass. NOt sure if the sand I had is considered quartz sand or not - the package just said "Play Sand". HOpe this helps! Michael

hahah just a screen to filter out the rocks you get in the play sand. I think it was actually an oil splash guard you put on top of a frying pan to keep the oil splashes in. A window screen might work too, or any kind of screen with small holes. The smaller the better so you don't block the sandblaster lines or nozzle.

My first impression was "yuk". I haven't seen a mustang I like since '69 though - well '70 was ok but went downhill from there. This one looks like a smashed ford explorer.

FYI shox.com told me lifetimie warranty on TOkico and Eibachs. He said "most are progressive" but wasn't sure about the pro-kit in particular. Edit: THe Eibach 240Z Pro kit is a progressive rate set. Jsut got them yesterday!!

I started with glass bead. But it went way too fast and at 30$ per 50lb, it's too expensive. I picked up some play sand at home depot (look in the building materials section and not gardening if you want the dry stuff). I bought a strainer from the grocery store with the smallest holes I could find. So far I haven't had any problems with it. You have to rock the blaster every once in awhile if it sticks but nothing bad. The only down side is it's REALLY REALLY dusty compared to glass bead. But at 2.50$ for 50lbs I can deal with it. I just push the car out in the driveway. Here's how it looks after some blasting (pass side floor) http://www.utdallas.edu/~perdue/sandfloor1.jpg Good luck! Michael

See Escanlon's gallery for similar wheels with the inner part painted body color. May give you some idea... http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=2606&papass=&sort=1&thecat=998 Michael

Xylene is great for removing the residue. Someone mentioned acetone - not sure which one is worse or better for your hands or lungs!

From my car audio days, I found the general opinion is that the stuff that's made for sound deadening in cars works the best. These are products like Dynamat and B-Quiet. These tend to be the most light weight with the best sound killing results. Other things will work. I tried the Hi-temp Mastic material from Mcmaster-Carr and it was pretty good, but it's really heavy and doesn't adhere as well as some others might. But it's relatively cheap. I'll probably end up splurging and going with the real thing such as Dynamat, or something close to it anyway. That stuff costs big $$$! michael

Or go this route for sound deadening: http://www.zparts.com/zptech/articles/bs_insulation/webtour-1/index.htm I may try something like this. I like a quiet interior... If I wanna hear the engine I'll roll down the windows! Michael

THis may not help you guys who aren't in the US, but I highly recommend shox.com if you're shopping for springs or struts online. I went to them with the best price I could find online and they were able to beat it and ship within 1 day. Nice service! Oh and I also ordered the EIbach Pro-Kit. THat was the only one I could find for a 240Z - probably only 1 kit for 260's also. Michael

Hey derk, Your floor looks pretty good. I'd recommend at least taking th seats out and look under there. My passenger side floor was completely solid except under the seat where the frame rail is welded to the floor, and along the seam of the seat mount. You could have the same problem. Here's how mine looked. http://www.utdallas.edu/~perdue/firewall.jpg I"d also say go with the POR-15 job if you don't mind having the car out of commission for a little while. You'll never have to worry about the floors again! Good luck! Michael

1. finish sandblasting welding rustproofing etc rusted areas (floors firewall battery tray) 2. get front end straightened 3. rebuild suspension front and back 4. paint prep and paint if I can afford it ! Lots of other stuff but just working on body/frame now

My opinion is almost the exact opposite of yours Zvoiture! I hate the big "ricer" air dams and prefer stock front or the black BRE spooks. I love the metal bumpers too! Michael

Have any pics of the 240? It's nice to see "local" cars. I need to get back in the Z club...

How do the parts look? Are they sunburned (almost all are). I may have some to trade, but most likely if you don't find someone to trade I may want to buy or trade for something else. I don't need door panels - mainly the hard plastic parts. Michael

Thank guys. I do plan on spending big bucks on the paint job - but I'm hoping having everything disassembled will save me a lot. I've already got some body work that needs to be done on the rear end so it could get costly. It's not too much but not perfect panels either. Oh and right now I'm thinking of going with the 113 Green Metallic, so I will put the panels on just to be safe. I may change my mind by then but I'm been leaning this way for a while now. Thanks again!! Michael

I haven't had a car repainted before, so I've also got a question or two. I have all of my body panels removed at this point. My plan is to rust-proof the interior, rebuild the suspension and weld up any rust holes in the engine bay and other places. I may also do some preliminary work on the body panels such as straightening dents and applying primer. What I'm wondering is do the body shop require that the parts be on the car when you take the car in for a paint job? Do they remove all of the panels and paint them individually? I don't really want to have to reassemble the car before painting, so I'd like to take in the rolling chassis with the fenders, hood, doors and other parts detached so that they'll get full coverage. I'm just not sure how this works. Thanks! MIchael

I plan to go with a real sound deadener like Dynamat or BQuiet. It won't be close to "original" but not much will be in my car so whatever. This will be my daily driver so I'd really like it to be quiet - or as close as possible..' Michael

THANKS! Finally someone who actually has the parts and can tell me 100% sure they work! Not that I'll be doing that real conversion soon, but it's nice to have the details straightened out. Thanks again!! MIchael PS how much do you want for the calipers? I could use them as cores for a trade in. Just PM me!

So DRECORD, since you've got the parts can you tell if the '82 calipers match up to the bracket? Have you done a test mount on your car? Actually I thought you were supposed to use ZX FRONT calipers, not rears. Man I'm just getting more and more confused. I may end up buying 3 or 4 sets of calipers before I find the right one!!! Michael

Hahaha... Now that I've looked at it a little more, it also reminds me of this HR Pufnstuf guy! I'm sure it's a bada$$ car, the styling just doesn't do much for me... Michael

Hmm.. I've never seen one of those. Looks kinda girlie with the "eyelashes" and all.... Michael