mperdue

Well actually they'll just have to steal more to make up for the big jump in prices due to this loss! CGZ, is the job as exciting as it looks? Or is it 99% mundane crap and 1% drug busting etc? michael

Aptfast didn't recommend using ram jets (air horns) with K&N filters. They are too long so the opening ends up close to the metal plate at the top of thefilter which restricts airflow. You'd be better off goign with a short stub stack with K&N's according to them. The ram jets are for a sock type filter. Anyone else feel free to chime in if this is totally off base - but it makes sense to me. Stub stacks: just noticed this thread is months old. Oh well.. michael

aptfast.com also sells air horns, stub stacks and K&N filters. The HS6 SU flange is identical to the 240Z SU carbs. Here are the ram pipes (air horns) they sell ($31.75 each): They also sell K&N Filters on a different page. May want to compare prices. Their tech support is very helpful. MIchael

You're right - not a bad deal: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=39178

Good suggestion, but any idea where to get one? I just called all over Dallas for one and couldn't find anyone who rents or loans them out. Tried auto parts stores and general equipment rental stores. So anyway, I just ended up doing it without one. Wasn't pretty but no one got maimed and nothing broke. Best thing I can suggest is if you can't find a tranny jack (very expensive to buy by the way - $150+) get a very tall hydraulic jack to help lower it. I didn't even have that so I just supported it with jackstands, removed all the bolts, grabbed hold of it and had my wife pull the stands out while I held onto it and lowered it down. Took some banging to get it to break loose. Good luck - michael (PS I'm talkign about my 210 tranny that i just pulled but it's pretty much the same, just lighter.) EDIT: oh yeah and drain the tranny fluid before you pull the driveshaft!

Yeah gav the bumpstop is just an insulator that keeps the top of the strut body from goign all the way up and hitting the underside of the top spring mount. It lets it softly bottom out instead of getting metal to metal slamming together. Not a bad idea to build that into the boot in my opinion.

Here's a not so great pic of similar wheels on my car (the day I picked her up from the barn). Sorry I don't have a better angle. I sold these on ebay a year or 2 ago.

Will the 280Z shock boots work? I'm guessing that's what you want because as far as I don't know they weren't original to the 280Z. If so take a look at your neighborhood auto parts store or the big online part stores in Aus. They probably have them for the 280Z (oops 260Z for you). Here's the one available from rockauto.com. http://www.rockauto.com/ref/KYB/Detail.html?sb103.jpg Good luck Michael edit: the price was around $11 each or pair not sure which. The picture may not be the exact one but the application I checked was '78 280Z. If you can't get their parts catalog to work properly click on the link to the non-java version at the bottom of the page. Well anyway here's a link: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/catalog.php

Hmmm... I wonder if I could push my rolling chassis all the way to Temple.

Did you read the rest of the post? He's fine!!! Zguitar - you've got a great attitude, looking at the bright side and all. It's not easy to do. I need to try to do that more often Michael

Interesting. I hadn't noticed that wire guage and instrument gauge weren't spelled the same way. I always spelled both gauge. Learn something new almost every day! EDIT: Actually after checking www.dictionary.com I'm not so sure you're correct. Guage doesn't show up at all and gauge is also used for wire size. Which actually makes sense that they'd be the same considering that the wire "gauge" has to do with size or measurement, just like a temperature gauge etc. I think I'll stick with gauge in all cases (except maybe when I refer to sewing machines since I'm not sure about that one ). Michael

Actually it's "Jay".

Just looked at my list. That's the one I bought from MWZ for $3.31 each (on the "Order Nov 2003" page). Mine worked just fine when I reassembled my rear suspension. Also when I took the old nut off I didn't have I didn't remove the crimped part and didn't have any problems with damaged threads. Good luck Michael

FWIW I was able to get almost every single nut and bolt in my suspension hardware replacement kit that Chloe put together for me (including this nut). What I did was go through the microfiche and pulled out every single part I wanted to replace and assembled a very detailed list with the original part numbers, microfiche page number and item number etc. Chloe then went through and gave me all of the replacement numbers if the originals weren't available. Let me know if it would be helpful to post that list. I can probably find it on my computer at home if I didn't lose it when I got a new PC. Oops actually I just found it. I'll try to attach it. Click the tab at the bottom that lets you see the original order. Hope this helps. michael ps. damn I miss chloe.... *sniff* MPerdue NOV03 Order.xls

That looks very similar to the stock 113 Green Metallic (below), which is what I'm going to go with on my some day. Gets my vote! Not sure about the white stripes though... I like the horizontal ones better but those are unique anyway.

Something else that could help is a tech FAQ, since that's what we're talking about here - frequently asked questions...

Another good example: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=127127#post127127 This one has been asked and answered so many times that it took 50 or 60 views before anyone would answer it. ( I had to edit this statement because me pointing it out obviously led to some members answering the question. ) But actually what would really help kill off repeated answers like this would be to form a real tech section at this site. NOt just another forum but a moderated authored tech section. Actually I've talked to Mike about this and meant to give him a hand but I've just been too busy. For an idea of what I'm talkign about check out this site: Dat1200 tech section The articles are nicely organized, and the articles themselves are comprehensive, continually updated by the authors (some anyway) and filled with pics and links to relevant topics and pictures on the site. Comments and suggestions are made to the author and not strewn about on the website. This is just my opinion but I think this type of tech section is much more effective than out thread articles and are a great place for a new member to start and probably answer most questions like this without searching or posting repeats. The tech section here is decent but it's really just a mess and difficult to use compared to a more book-like section.

My suggestion is to just POR-15 the battery tray area and any other sensitive areas such as the bottoms of the frame rails and firewall near the battery tray, frame rails and around the tranny tunnel.. Doing the whole thing is overkill especially in Texas. And this is coming from someone who POR-15'd his entire suspension - which looking back was not really necessary probably. Only way I'd say it's worth it to POR-15 the whole thing is if you're going to spray it, otherwise it'll look like crap since POR at least when I used it tends to bubble a little and is impossible to sand. That's my plan for my engine bay anyway - POR the trouble areas around the firewall and battery tray and save as much of the original paint as a base for the new coats. Oh and remember if you do spray it you have to be EXTREMELY careful about removing all water from the compressed air. Not easy to do without out mega filters and dryers etc. IT's possible but because POR-15 is so sensitive to water contamination I'm scared to even try it. Anyway just my 2 or 3 cents. Michael

Can you get center caps for those?

But then this pic looks like 920 - I have no idea.

It looks a lot like the 919 paint chip in the gallery (but not the car). Maybe that sample car pic isn't right. I should have kept better track of where those pics came from - or I should try to reconstruct it before I completely forget.

My car had almost the exact same damage. I had it straightened at a frame shop. I don't remember the exact cost for that part but it was around 2-300 dollars. They basically had to pull it 2 directions, toward the front and toward the left to get it to pop bacfk into place. I had a few other things done at the same time so I can't remember how much it was exactly. It was very difficult to find a shop to do it. I had to go to 4 or 5 places before I found the right place. It looks very good now, but I'm not happy with the other work they did (welding new dogleg panels in and repairing a rust hole in the firewall). I should have had them fix it but I didn't notice how bad it was till I got it home. Doh. Good luck finding a shop. Michael

They look great to me. Are you going to provide us with a step-by-step? Michael

Rubber mallet and vice worked great for me. Actually as I recall I also used a long piece of threaded rod and some washers and nuts to spread the control arms just enough to get them to fit. All of that and the finish wasn't damaged. Good luck. Michael