sclay115

i've been trying to figure something out here, and maybe this should be common Z knowledge, but are all the early style Z's, 240,260,280, dimensionally the same? i think that the weights changed, but did the wheelbase/track width, anything like that change? any help would be appreciated...thanks steve

so but it's safe to say that with the p79 pistons i should just get the standard bore rings? that's really what i'm trying to figure out. and were the p79 slugs something that came factory in any Z? steve

i'm going to be reringing my motor here shortly...and i need some help trying to figure out what rings i need to buy. they are p79 pistons in an l28 block...assuming they aren't overbored, but i haven't checked. but i'm assuming with the stock p79 pistons they should be a standard bore. i was looking in the VicBrit catalog and they list two different ring sets for the l28, should i opt for the earlier one or later? i'm trying to get all this right on the first shot, so i'm just trying to get all the info together, any help anyone could give me would be great. thanks steve

i had just not seen many people use this route when converting...that's all. but it would absolutely be able to handle a high fuel load right? that's my only concern, and does the surge tank need to be a certain size depending on what sort of fueling you need? this is all a new thing to me, and sounds like a good option, since i wouldn't have to modify where my fuel tank is and how it operates..... steve

after doing a bit of research on google, i've seen setups using the stock carb'ed tank with an aluminum surge tank that uses a low pressure pump to load the tank, then a high pressure pump to pump it to the rail, anyone ever seen this? it seems sort of like a band aid fix, but just wanted to see if anyone has any experience with it... here is a link http://www.sdsefi.com/techsurge.htm steve

what is the cheaper/better route? i have a 72, carb'ed, looking to go injected, should i send my tank out to get a pickup brazed to the bottom? or is that even how they do it? should i get a later tank, risk the rust and use that? or just go with a cell, make up some brackets, and go that way? i can't figure out which is cheaper only because i'm not sure how much it would be to modify a tank for FI...btw, i'm not really concerned about originality, the car is far from stock already... steve

suggestions?

no to crap on the thread here, but i worked as an asst. parts manager at a nissan dealer, we did a lot of nismo sales, and while i haven't been there for 2 months, i sincerely doubt that you could buy a nismo jacket for anything less than like a bazillion dollars. i know we had them, and i think they retailed for 55-65 bucks, but they didn't look like that, but either way, that looks like a nice jacket, and i'm sure no one would know the difference. steve

will this also check for worn guides? is there really any way to check for that? other than removing the head and checking the wear by checking the diameter? i was thinking i should just get a new cylinder head as well, but i dont want to spend the money on it if i just need rings...btw, thanks for the awesome help, and the great diagram i really appreciate it.

the valve stem seals are brand new, i just did those when i got the car(original idea of what would fix it..) but what about the guides themselves? maybe? steve

ok so i have a TWM manifold with webers...where am i 'supposed' to go with the pcv hose? as i mentioned, mine is attached to nothing, nor is the deal on the valve cover. the one on the valve cover has a breather on it, but that's it... steve edit: and there is no way that could be causing the heavy smoking could it? even if it was the problem?

that was one of my concerns, as i really dont have any experience changing valve guides, but i was reading up that the shiny cylinder walls are a sign of poor break in, could be wrong. but as per the PCV system, anybody have any pictures of that? because i have that pipe right there, but it's not connected to anything! :eek: where is it supposed to go? steve

if you recall i was having trouble with my Z burning crazy oil and smoking something fierce, and after putting new valve seals, and a new head gasket on it, it's back at it. i ran the compression test again, with the new HG, same results as before. the only thing i didn't do is check the head for level, i had no means to, and well, i needed the car back(silly i know). but when the motor was apart, i looked at the pistons/cylinder walls, the pistons showed no signs of problems, and by problems i mean that they were uniform in color and buildup. i heard once that bad rings can leave a clean ring around the outside of the piston, true? maybe, who knows, but either way, they were uniform in buildup. the cylinder walls still showed signs of the previous hone job, and were quite shiny i might add, which i've read up on is a sign of a poor break in job. so while doing the latest compression test, i added oil to the cylinders(car was at operating temp) and noticed no change in the readings from when i did it dry. so what gives? am i just the victim of a poor ring seat job from the previous owner? or should i look into something more? i was thinking i would just go ahead and put rings in the motor, but i dont want to waste my time trying to save something that isn't worth saving. the head/valves looked pretty good when i had the head off, some carbon buildup, but nothing out of the ordinary. my plan was to just run this motor until she gave up, while building another motor with my own devious plans, so i'm trying to avoid spending huge money on the motor that is in there. so should i just bite the bullet, throw rings in there, rehone the cylinder walls and give it a shot? or should i be concerned about more drastic problems that would end up costing me an arm in a leg? steve btw, yah i like to write novel sized posts.

just kidding! i found out how.

i am under the impression that my block is from a 280, i just dont know what year...is there a way to tell from a stamping on the side or anything? thanks steve