280~Master

To me thats not a 6500 car. If it starts and runs with a good gas tank I would think 5000. Now if it has rust in the local spots I would say 4500. To me that looks like a repaint and it probly has a rolled over Speedo. Just my 2 cents

Ya was just kidding. Those wringers are the coolest to have around, if I still lived in Houston I would only head over to Mikes to wash the car. PS looks great Mike

Those things are fun. I remember when I had one with a 5 HP lawnmower hooked up to it. That wringer was so cool. It would ring just about anything. Then one day ouch.

Well This weekend HLS30.com and I Pulled a turbo engine, Front suspension, rear suspention, hood, passenger window, Evaporator core and a couple of small parts. We did this in one cold but entertaining weekend.

Red Eye, I like the car. Looks like john had great knowledge of the cars life :eek: Anyway who is that goofy guy standing in front of the car. Reminds me of someone I seen on America's Most Wanted last week. http://www.amw.com/fugitives/brief.cfm?id=24550

There is a strech of road out side of the showing area that would be great for all of us to park our Z cars. A couple of people dressed in orange vests, offical looking hats and maybe some orange cones and yellow tape placed in the right spots and POW we have special Z parking for all of those who bring a Z car. So now we will need some Volunteers to help with the cause.

Last year the family and I stayed at the Fairfield Inn off of I-95 and 102/ Duval rd by the Airport. It was a very short drive to Amelia back up 95 to Hwy 200 then to Amelia Island Parkway. Anything closer (95 and 200 intersection) is going to be booked solid. Now unless you are staying on Amelia the airport hotels are the closest you will find in the area.

What i would like to see is the type of motor used all the electrical schemadics and so one for this car. A nice write up on how the car was built, materials used ect. If this stuff was readily available to the public there could be more green cars running around on the roads. Now I know there would be a couple of redneck versions out there but you would still endup with some creative ideas.

I plan on being there with a Z car. So count me in..

I know someone who has a made a mirror image of the left side mirror, so it will fit perfectly on the right side.

I too prefer the stock pump, bosch still rebuilds them. I have an aftermarket pump on my car. Had to replace stock one before cleaning and POR15 the tank. I have had my pump on there for 2 years now and no problems. My aftermarket pump does have a lifetime warranty.

I would replace the hoses and clamps. Is the T needed? If so keep it if not junk it. Pull the elbow out from the block, clean it up along with the block area and replace. Your oil spots look like they need to be cleaned with some degreaser clamps, hoses or gasgets replaced and you should be just fine. Just my 2.

What makes questions like this so hard to answer or help with is the fact that there is not really enough info, nor are you at the car listening, smelling, feeling, testing ect. I would like to recommend a great piece of reading for anyone who has an EFI Z car. This book in based on the 75 280Z but will work for your 76 280Z. 77-83 Z cars the EFI has most of the same basics but they do differ here and there and this book does not cover all for those cars. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf Try some of the trouble shooting and see what you find. Let us know how it goes.

No! are you going crazy?

What kind of fouling were the plugs? Fuel, carbon, oil? You could have a bad ECU try switching with one that is good and see if that helps. Fuel injector relays could be going out (located by the wiper tank.) Your timing could be off You could have the cap and rotor on wrong, I did this on my first 240 The wires could be mixed up on the cap your pick up could be spaced wrong What I would do first is test the ECU with another one. Start double checking your self and make sure you replaced everything correct kind of like a process of elimination. Start eliminating with the basic stuff. make sure your getting fuel to the engine compartment. check the rotor and cap to see if the are right then double check the wires and make sure they are on the right way. check the pickup and timing. ect ect ect

Carl, Congrats on the calender. Can't wait to see the car again, next year at Amelia. gnosez, The wife :kiss: and I were there that cold windy day. So I have a couple of photos from the shoot that day on my camera. :classic: I will send you a copy of the topless photos and the bikini photos of Carl laying on the hood.

That doen't look like the same corner. I guess after 40 years things change.

I know for a fact here in GA you don't need a tile for a car this old nor do you need it inspected, all you need is a bill of sale and you can register the car. When I bought my 76 280Z I took the title to change it over and was told its an antique and did not need all of that. The great news about this, you might ask. I got a great antique tag for the Z free of charge. So any type of Vin change would be very easy in GA.. Also looking at the plate, it looks like he has the antique tag on it. From GA DMV Website. Antique Plates To qualify for these tags, your vehicle must be over 25 years old. Or, your vehicle must be designed and manufactured to replicate an antique vehicle. So he made the 260 look somewhat like a 240 and told the DMV it was a 240. The registration fee is $20, and there isn't a special tag fee. You may transfer the tags to another antique vehicle in your possession. If you wish to display the Georgia plate coinciding with the vehicle's model year, you'll have to complete an affidavit, and the vehicle must be from 1970 or earlier. Take the form to a county tag agent office, where a visual inspection on the vehicle must be completed. Remember to keep the current tags in the vehicle at all times, along with the affidavit.

What is realy bad about this? Is someone will buy it.

Here is a pic of the hub cap. Looks like it has EA in the center.

I tried to load that in PDF last night and could not get it to take either. I have the whole S30 Supplement Chassis Manual. It has 38 pages of great detailed info about the body and chassis that is not covered in the regular FSM.

No that information is not in the regular service manual.

I don't think the 280 had those inline fuses but I am probably wrong. For your blower motor problems check fuses, then the switch, then the blower motor. Does your 280 have A/C? This would make it a different switch and a few other things in the blower area that are different from the non-A/C cars.

Its getting cold again and the heater questions have already started rolling in. I hope this will help everyone who is suffering in the cold. Thanks to Datsun Z Car Parts for all the great info.

Those are extra vents for your ac/heater. I always liked mine in my first 77. Wish my 76 had them.