280~Master

240ZMan do you have any info on that upgrade? I know about doing that upgrade, was even going to do that upgrade. I just don't want to change things like ALT pully and make a new braket ect. I want a good bolt on swap.

I see where you guys are coming from on the AMP's. I am running an electric fan that draws a bit of amps plus a stereo and I am headed for more power using options. Windows, Wiper pgrade things like yours dave. I do see the voltage gauge when using lights blinker ect. pluse like to much is being drawn. May just be an old regulator. But I also have some idea about things and would love to read that book Will.

I just bought an alternator for the 75 280Z. I got the Alt for a 82ZXT internally regulated of course 60AMP. I am not in need of it yet but have noticed a flux in voltage when driving so I am preping for when it does go out. My question for this thread is. 1. Is there a way to ugrade the insides of the Alternator to get a max output of voltage. I do have an Alt shop close by but he's not the best guy to talk with. I also don't want to spend the 100 or so for the other guys super AMP alternator.

Maybe Razor blades Carl. Heck the only true good use for Japanese steel from the 70's is to make rust piles.

Valley, I have the radiator HLS30.com was talking about above. I also installed a 2 speed electric fan from a ford. I have an escort fan shroud and a auto switch to turn the fan on. I live in Southern GA. it hits the 100's and is humid as he!!. I can not get the temp guage to go past the middle unless i turn off then fan. Best cooling I have ever used on a Z and it was more cost effective with radiator supports ect. HLS30.COM priced safely above what it cost me to do the convertion. Hopefully will have a full write up in a week or 2.

I was happy when I got her and still happy to have her, sad to see her go but if I can't get my reserve price then she will sit in the garage.

Thanks Arne, I hope to get some extra money to put into my 76.

Well the time has come. I must let go of one of my favorite toys. I just hope someone else will take care of her. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___1990-300ZX-TWIN-TURBO-CLEAN-T-Top-FAST-EXCELLENT-COND_W0QQitemZ160243776690QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item160243776690&

What's wrong with that? If your going to go 4x4-ing then do it in style.

Well, we all know it was well taken care of and in a climate controled garage for all its life but by now after a year sitting in the drive way(according to the dated pics) it is not perfect nor is it original. I do like it but for that much I would buy something different.

Red_dog007 Grab a F54 block (80-83 Z cars) and put in a LD28 crank (Maxima Desiel 80-83) with the short 9mm L24 rods, flat top forged pistons, turbo, and shot of spool up NOS and you should have enough HORSE POWER coming out your ears, a$$, nose, mouth and what other holes there are to keep your pockets empty puting in gas. If you are not happy with 200 to 300 HP from the inline 6, then slap in a V8 and slide over to HybridZ for a complete friendly enviroment. Check out this link from carl beck's site for great info. http://www.zhome.com/rnt/3.1HanveyProject.htm Hope this helps you with your project.

I used to live in that area, San Rafael, Petaluma and Santa Rosa. I have had problems with a shop in that area. Is Bernard hispanic? I think I have used them years ago. I took a 77 280Z to a Z shop Petaluma for a tune, valves and all, came back with a bad antenna and a couple of other things missing from the car. The mechanic from there told me once he would have to drill and tap the intake to put on heat sheilds. When I heard that I laughed in his face and said I would never use or recommend his shop again. I know there used to be another shop a little further south that had a great rep for doing great work. Wish I could remember the name. Good luck.

Sounds like a vapor lock or some part of your carbs are bad. I am not an SU or a weber guy but maybe some one else has ideas. What shop did you go to and what all did they do to tune it?

You want the crane technique. If done right no can defend. Sorry, To much Kareate Kid on AMC. Seriously, If you have a strong engine get you a nice strong clutch. I prefer ones that have a maximum # of teeth on the Pressure Plate-more of an even push on the clutch plate but more of a chance of breaking one if you POP the clutch to spin out. The clutch plate is not so important in my experience with clutch kits as the Pressure Plate is. Most clutch plates are just about the same, made with the same materials as most brakes are and all of them are round. You also need to have the fly wheel turned in order to get max performance out of the clutch just like replacing the rotors or having the rotors turned.

Thats of Carl Becks car. What a looker she is. I have some great photos of it with Peter and Carl. http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29743&highlight=amelia

I found it was cheaper to buy a radiator from JTR and convert it to a crossflow than it was to buy a new 3 core from MSA. I also notice a huge difference in the temp of the car. I also did an electric fan while I was at it.

If I was on the west coast I would buy it for a grand. Here on the east side of the US cars in that condition are very hard to find for a low price. Plus I have a 280 and want a 240.

Mine went dead and I put it on a slow charge and its fine now.

That should be in your fuse box. Lower passenger kick panel.

What color is the house?

Whats funny is he says (torquey!). As far as I know every Z I have had has some torque. Maybe thats due to the long runners?

Great to hear you got that back and only 2 miles down the road. What a small world. Did you buy it new in 73?

I would start with the fuel injection Bible located here http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf The 77 FSM Covers just enough but I think this wil also give you a better idea of how EFI works.