280~Master

I have a small 8” bench grinder from harbor freight that has a polishing wheel on it. Mine is like a 1/2 horse power motor and is easily stopped with force applied. It’s not too big and can still be moved if need be. It does a good job. To get a good polish you need something that has high RPM’s like around 3000 or more. I also use a high speed die grinder with a set of polishing wheels from harbor freight. This is great for small portability projects. I used this to bring back my shine on the valve cover. Plus you don’t have to worry about burning up the motor on your drill. Pneumatic is my choice. I can also get those angles that can be hard on the grinder. I use red and white rouge for polishing compound.

I am not going to take it personal at all. I know people like to stay some what original. I just thought I might ask this question. I know the chevy should fit I have heard about it years ago plus the thermostat is the exact same part as the 350,305 and ect. Plus the one I'm looking at is not angled. I guess I may run over to the JY for a couple of test pieces after work. I just thougth having an alluminum 360 swivel would look cool on my engine. I do have some polished pieces along with some custom machined pieces to make it look sharp. The steel braided lines are great to. I just put them on my AC system a couple of weeks ago.

No takers on this?

Has any on ever heard of using a chevy thermostat cover on the Z thermostat housing. I know I have heard somewhere that it can be done. I just don't know if you use the 70's style or the later style. I ask because I am doing a JTR radiator change on my Z in the next two weeks or so, and instead of using a hose splicer or the JTR kit I would like run a longer hose to a swivel thermostat housing.

Ya I know the shop around me will do them for about 65 to 100 depending on condition. But when you take it to a Radiator shop they just soak it with muric acid for a few hours at a time, to eat the rust away. I don't think many would open it up and sandblast the bad $^!# away for 65 bucks. If they do let me know so I can send a couple of tanks to them. Even using acid and POR 15 you might not get to every spot in the tank. If its opened up you can see inside better, plus you can get around the inside of the baffle that hold the pick-up line.

I was looking around about an aftermarket radiator and stumbled upon this here. From what I can see looks like it might be worth it> I have spent just about this amount on my tank. Just wanted to pass this on. http://www.radiatorexpress.com/product.asp?part_id=40220

Your exhaust manifold is not all that hard to pull off. You can run into problems where it bolts into the exhaust at the flange. Make sure you have soaked those bolts in penetrating oil. After many years of hot to cold to hot they tend to get stuck. You may also want to remove the studs in the head and put in some new ones. Be careful here also these have a tendency to break off in the head and then you’re drilling and cussing at it. Take your time on this and make sure you have everything you need or might need waiting for you like new studs, new nuts, and intake and exhaust gasket, and so forth. As far as the headers I have heard different stories about them fitting and not fitting. Maybe someone here will have some insight on who makes the best fitting headers for the Z.

I would have to say from the information you have provided us it would have to be between the years of 1970 to 1978. Hope you can find out what year it really is. Good luck

I have not looked for the hose at Home Depot. Never thought about that place for that. Did think about HD for the foam seals. Kind of like weatherstriping for windows and stuff. I know I am going to use a type of tape on the joints and other areas that need sealed. A rubber/metal type of tape should work well.

Ok so I have searched around the site but I have had no luck. I am looking for the side ventilator hose that runs to each side vent from the center vent. Are these still available from nissan if so what is the part # or is there a substitue that is being used. Mine are paper with a metal wire and after 20 plus years they are torn. I have just fixed the a/c : and now I need to get the rest of the system up to par. So the car will cool off better than it does. I am also looking for some type of gasket to fix the old foam around the center ac vent and the blower motor. Is the any ideas about this?

I like th e5 speed due to the fact I like to pop the clutch and do donuts in eampty parking lots. I have never driven an atuomatic Z car just a maxima with an L28. I may prefer the auto after I drive one.

Here is a thread that sould help you out on this problem. Also don't forget the search located in the top right it will help out a lot. http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19034&highlight=fuel+tank+por15

that 77 tank will fit in the slot but your fuel pump will be different. On a 77 the pump is in the tank. Your 75 has the fuel pump behind the passenger tire. This would be a little work to convert but it could work. Look for a tank thats from 74 to 76. 260 or 280.

Well or luck ran out Will the guy will not be here after today. So no go on the bushings. I do have some good news for us. I now have 3 1ft sections of 1 inch brass. If we can make them for ourself then we will be good. I also got a nice 3 ft section to make alternator adjusting brackets. Maybe we can get all this together and make up some fun items.

Sounds like a deal. Thanks Will if you were here I would give you a nice cold beverage.

Alfadog, Wish I could give you some help here but you have one of those foreign cars. To try and help you out on this situation I would think the button would sit on the ring. I have seen horn buttons look like they won't fit but they end up sitting in there just right. Now I had a after market wheel that the horn button just pushed in the center of the ring. Yes it would move but only if I tried to move it with my fingers. As far as your horn sounds like a grounding problem. You have to close that circuit for the horn to blow. Did it work with the last wheel? If you can get a couple of pics maybe we can guide you staright so you can blow your own horn.

Will, If you could also get the measurment of the ears on a type b tranny that would be good to. Just for insurance I am going to take in a shifter and a pin so we can get it right. How mant would you like 1,000 or so? I am going to try and get at least 6 sets out of him before he leaves.

Ok I am not as smart as the people on the earth but I do posses some type of skills. Wish I knew what they are. As you said Will the dial indicator is for trueness and the vernier caliper is great for measuring parts. I guess I got confused a little. If you can find that vernier caliper thingy then could you run some number my way? I will talk to the guy at work and see what he meant by using a dial indicator. He might have the vernier caliper that has a dial on it like in your first picture. P.S. He will only be able to get these made this week after that he will be out of the shop for quite a bit of time.

Here is a pdf of the measurements that would be needed to make the bushings. FAX_.pdf

I am going to have a friends make some new bushings for my modified shift lever. Does any one have the measurements of stock shifter bushings. I am getting a set of brass ones made up for me by a friend. I would prefer that they be measured by a dial indicator due to the importance of them fitting just right. I have the door pin trick in my shifter now bt these would be free to me and anyone who could help.