280~Master

Wm e smith, Not trying to hi-jack your thread on your car, so sorry if I offend anyone. I did scan through this thread and took a look at what some advice has been. From what I can tell you have been chasing a fuel problem on the car. It’s hard to say what it is over the internet could be a fuel problem or and electrical problem. I see that when you run it, it will stall on you then start right back up. The question is will it start within 3 seconds or does it have to crank over for 10 seconds before it starts? I used to have a girlfriend that had one of these and worked on hers along with my 77 280. Here is my take on your car. You should write down some of the reasons that your car might do this and check them off your list as you eliminate each one of them. From what you described in this thread I would start with the fuel. \ 1st I would check the fuel lines and make sure they are nice and cleaned out. Blow them out with an air hose and I mean all of them. Start on the return line back to the tank, then blow backwards thru your fuel filter, take the hose off after you check valve and blow that line out, take the hose off the inlet to your fuel pump and blow that back into your tank. Just remember to take off your gas cap when you blow into the gas tank. Will cause pressure build up in take and fuel will squirt back out the hose and in your face. 2nd pull your fuel pump and clean the inlet screen that is inside of the inlet. 3rd go to NAPA and buy 2 foot of ½ inch fuel hose along with an inline fuel filter NAPA part# NAPA GOLD 3299. http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=FIL&PartNumber=3299&Description=Fuel+Filter+(Gold) NAPA is the only place I have found that carries this filter in stock. Place this filter between your outlet of the gas tank and the inlet of your fuel pump. This will keep any rust or dirt from entering your fuel pump. Racers use this type of set up for there cars. There filters are bigger and cost 10 times as much as a small inline filter. Now put all this back together and try and drive the car. See what happens. If your end up with the same results as last time stalls then starts then there are 3 other things that might be causing this. 1. Rust in the tank that has clogged you pick-up line inside of the tank. You have to remember there is a screen at the end of your pick up line (inside of the tank) that may be clogged. Only solution to this is to have a new pick up line placed in your tank. 2. You have a bad Fuel pressure regulator. 3. Bad Fuel pump. You have to remember you have a car that is almost 30 years old. You live in a spot where there is cold then hot weather. There is condensation inside of every gas tank. Your tank is metal, water and metal does not work or mix well together. Especially Japanese steel. As far as the fuel pressure regulator it is very possible this is the cause of your problems. There is a rubber diaphragm, a spring and a check valve inside of the regulator. After 26 years or so of freezing, heat and ECT it may have gone bad. I had a 75 280 that was doing the same thing as your 810 was doing. It would run down the road and then just stall. It would start up a ride for a bit and then stall again. I ran a fuel pressure test on it and found out that there was really no fuel pressure to keep the car running. I replaced the regulator and POW it ran better than my 76 280. I say try this route due to the fact that you have tried the relay thing, the AFM thing, the distributor thing, the wiring of end plugs and I have never seen the temp sensor or thermo time switch stall a car due to them going bad. It will cause the car to spit and sputter or burn too much fuel and oil but never keep it from running. Good luck and I hope this helps.

You need to start with a turbo exhaust, a 77 280Z computer, J pipe, down pipe, and the turbo. I would get a boost control just to keep the engine from blowing..

Will, How do you now about club LA VELA?? http://www.lavela.com/home.htm You must be from Florida or you went to college there? LOL

For once you are right Carl.

Ok, the 77 sounds good due to the fact that it has N47 head, diamond ports on it with steel sleeves seems to have less power for him to destroy it. The compression test will tell you if you need new rings in it, by doing the old add a tea spoon of oil to the cylinder trick. Help here guys!! The RUM is kicking in. I think adding a spoon full of oil should tell you if the oil ring is bad. Am I right fellas?? For instance if you run a compression test and it runs low and you add oil to the cylinder you are testing and it runs high then you need to rebuild the bottom half. At least the rings will need to be replaced in this case. I for one would give my son the N47 head with Fuel injection and keep the E88 and carbs for my car. The fuel injection should convert right over if you use the 77 motor. You just have to place the computer in a spot.. On the driver left under the dash is stock for the Z car. The wiring for the fuel injection is not connected to the chasy wiring at all on the car. They are run on opposite sides of the car. Motor on left and electric on right. The blocks should all be about the same with everything inter changing. Just watch out for the head gasket you buy. Do research on this for I don’t remember which on is better. As far as paying for this I would charge him for a new motor in one of the cars.. Say about 1500.00……..

Just look at the Quater windows and tell me if it has been painted or if some one realy went through this car right. How about the data plate rust on 2 rivits but just a little on the other sie???? Looks to mer as this car may have been painted in the last few hours. Who knows could be a great restored project with 70,000 miles on it...

Thats right!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That is good to hear. Boobs are a very important part of the Z's drive train. With out them we are just another import sitting at the line. I ask about this thread due to the number of posts it has recieved. I would hope that this car has been fixed by now. P.S. I could not read the whole post due to the other half......

The sound of your Z is up to you. You could go silent just to wizz off the ricers or you could go loud just to wizz of the ricers. If you do the right combo you can get silent with good performance or go loud with good performance. I myself like it loud. I just put a little insulation in the back and turn the radio up. I have straight 1 ½’ pipe with no resonator and bumpers taken off. You would be surprised to see how many people look at the car when it’s loud. Plus the ricers don’t know what to do when a car is louder than theirs is. You have to sit down and decide what type of sound you want out of your Z. I have been told to use 2 ½ inch pipe for the L28 with a nice type of turbo Muffler. This should get you some pep in your car. If you have the L24 to L26 I would stay 2 ¼ and use a nice turbo muffler with no resonator. If you have the L28 I would go with 2 ½ no resonator and nice turbo muffler. You just got to remember the muffler will sound good only when you get on it. If you want it to sound good when you sit at a red light then go with no muffler and straight pipe.

Ok Guys How Long Is This Post Going To Last???? Will It Beat Out The Boobs Post Some Day????:laugh:

Ok you should be banned for life but not from here:tapemouth just silenced maybe the strip club should ban you but not here. You must mean the rotor not the wheel but I will entertain this question. You have to think on what holds the wheel on is better than what holds the rotor on. You got 4 lugs for the wheel but just one for the Rotor. Yes, that is all that will hold on the rotor is the bearings(don't hold $^!#) and the outside nut with a cotter pin in place plus the calliper. You will be fine with this.

I still have the engine at the machine shop right now getting work done to it. I am in no hurry, plus my machine shop is pretty full with work so it might take a while. I want to go turbo in this car but with this engine I have at the shop it would be wiser to have it run flat tops. I am going to buy the parts individually so I know what I am getting. I would suggest these kits to someone who is looking for a quick replacement for there Z. http://nebraskaengine.safeshopper.com/268/cat268.htm?288 This place is the cheapest I have found for our cars with basic parts. I have called them and for them to find pistons and a cam was hard but they did get them for me if I wanted them. Prices may have jumped up a bit but should be reasonable. I say call them due to the fact that the customer service is great and who knows what might happen if you get them off the net.

First off I would like to say thank you to all my fallen military brothers may peace be with you. I don't know if anyone has seen the news about the helicopter that crashed near Doerun, GA this week. Well 5 people were on board and 4 did not survive the crash. On of them was a Z freind http://www.nightstalkers.com/memorial/sgt_erberich/index.html I know that all of us would have enjoyed the company of Chris. He had just started the restoring of a 73 240Z and had come to see me for info and help on where to get replacement parts for the car. This 73 was owned by another soldier named Kip Jacoby http://www.nightstalkers.com/memorial/sgt_jacoby/index.html who was shot down in Afganistan last year trying to rescue some navy seals. Chris aquired the car from Kip and planed on building a nice daily driver. I would like to try and finish this car as a memorial for these 2 soldiers.Who lost there lifes while serving there country. I will be looking for sponsors who would be willing to donate parts, time, experience, money or just about anything that might help get this car to a respectful state so it can serve as a memorial to these 2 fallen soldiers. Any and all 2 cents would be very helpful. Thanks, John Bertrand

Never heard of anyone doing this but if you find someone who does then send them our way. We all could use a new tank..

Looks nice. Its an officers car that is stationed in florida. Looks great and would jump on it if it had a buy it now for 6,000.

This reminds me of a post that has some guys using a leaf blower and forcing air into the intake, what a joke that was. I should probly call the cops on this guy. I think he stole my old 240 heater fan and is trying to pass it off as a performance part. Will, can I still get a set of those rare spring helpers or did you sell them all on ebay for millions.

Found these out there. I guess if you like the style you might want them. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/15-Inch-Chrome-Wheels-for-Nissan-240Z-260Z-or-280Z_W0QQitemZ8060420558QQcategoryZ43955QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Ok about my Z. Lets see here Will. I bought a 76 280Z from the parts manager at the local Nissan dealer (Vaden Nissan (912) 920-5480, Cheap plug but he will get almost everything you need). He got it in a deal on his new house. The Good Stuff: It has no major rust and most of the service records all the way back to the original owner. I have the original window sticker that was on the car from the dealer. It has dealer installed AC, 4 speed tranny, 3:5 rear end, polished rims 14" with new tires, polished valve cover (Thanks To HLS30.COM ), almost perfect insides, custom headlight harness by me, aviation steel braided hoses, no Bumpers, striaght pipe exhaust, all locks work along with all guages except clock, doors don't rattle, cheap cold air intake, custom grill and its fast enough to smoke those that don't see me coming. The Bad Stuff: The guys at work (with Hondas, Neons, VW's and Mustangs) won't go to the track or street and race me . It has been painted gray over the baby blue color and its pealing, needs new struts, poly bushings, brake upgrades, along with new weather seals all the way around it, has bad half shafts (U-joints). The Better Stuff: Its going to get a new turbo engine .30 over, upgraded cam, big throttle body, bigger injectors, custom fuel rail, custom electric fan, early 260Z 5 speed and 3:90 diff, after market fuel system, shot of NOS, disk brakes, new paint(original color), ground effects, custom seats(power if I can), coilovers, lowered 1" and tinted windows

You know if this was my Z I would be very hot and would not wait for all the litigation to take place. I personally would go right over there with a trailer or a tow bar and just bring the car back home, even if it caused me to get a trespassing charge from the police. I would make sure there is a title and bill of sale in my hand along with a blank check to pay for what ever work was done to the car if any. If the cops get involved how can they argue with a title that has your name on it and the Vin numbers to match? I don’t see how they would tell you not to take the car if it is yours and you can prove it. I think you’re asking for a completion date on the car when you need to be demanding for the return of the car to your possession and not a completion date. If you go with the grand theft option, the cops told you to use, then you might not see your car until the trial or until all the proceedings are finished even if then. This Grand theft charge could end up being longer than the CA Bureau of Automotive Repair litigation. Do some research on both of them and find out which one would take longer. As I said before I would go there and take what is mine but only if I have proof that it is mine. I mean what are the cops going to do take you to jail for stealing your own car? No you would end up with a trespassing charge at the least. P.S. Take a friend with you that has a video camera or see if you can get the local news involved. You would be surprised how fast they will react when they are being filmed.

I think I will raise the car up in the next day or two and take a good look to see what is causing this. When I do this I may just have to switch out diffs. I have an extra on hand. When I do this I will clean it and fill it with some good oil.

I have been having a problem with a noise that is getting worse. It started after I rose the passenger side to replace the fuel pump. When I barley touch the gas pedal while going down the road I get a grinding/whiny noise coming from the back of the car. When I put the car into neutral and coast to a stop, I get a ticking/thump sound. (Almost sounds like the half shaft is loose and hitting something every time it spins) I know it’s not loose I did look at that. My instincts tell me it’s the differential making this noise. Most of the sound I hear sounds like its coming from the middle rear to the right rear. Now this morning I was stopped at a light and tried to go forward and was stuck. The tranny would shift but the car would not move. I had to put the car in reverse and back up about an inch then she went forward. Right now I am moving into a new house so time is very important. I plan on replacing the diff fluid and see how this works. What kind of fluid should I use 80W90 or could I use Red Line Oil 75W90? O yeah is the filler hole for the rear Diff on the top of the Diff? Any advice would be great. Thanks, John

My PO did this with the intake. Seems to work just fine for me plus its flexable. You can buy all this at HOME DEPOT except the filter. It looks like crap but it works. I have a piece of 3" exhaust from a ford F250 that has a bend in it that I need to get bent about an inch tighter. It was free and in the back of the muffler shop. To heck with buying something that they just throw in the trash.

I prefer to use this colored one. Had it printed out on a 4'x6' sheet of paper. Easy to follow. F77ZCAR-WIRING.pdf

I hvae raed this tread and N0w I feel lke my grain has gotten aloot dummer. :stupid: I just wonder what you are smoking? I would guess its the tires from the other cars you have destroyed. Do you grind it all up and put it in a pipe or do you roll it up in some ZigZags? But what ever it is you are smoking you should share it with the rest of us.

The car looks nice from the pictures. I was looking at the pictures and I got to wondering why it has a spedo that starts at 10Mph vs the 0Mph like my 76has in it. The miles are probly not right. It also looks like you might have to buy a funnel. There seems to be alot of oil on the bottom of the valve cover and around the oil cap itself. The seller says it has no leaks at all. thats hog wash. I guess people will buy anything off of ebay.