Jump to content

280~Master

Member
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by 280~Master

  1. 280~Master commented on Zulaytr's comment on a gallery image in 07 Daytona National Z Convention
  2. 280~Master commented on hls30.com's comment on a gallery image in 07 Daytona National Z Convention
  3. 280~Master replied to Darbji280z's post in a topic in Help Me !!
    They are also very cool if you clean them up and have them painted.
  4. 280~Master replied to 26th-Z's post in a topic in HISTORY
    How cool to have Mr. K sending you stuff. Very nice.
  5. 280~Master replied to klpete45's post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Ken I have a quick question for you. With the car off, can you shift thru the gears with no clutch? 1. Now from reading your post I can see the car is in neutral so you won't need the clutch to move it. There is the possability that the brakes are stuck (probly the drums). You also could have some frozen U-joints keeping things locked up. The diff might be stuck or the something fell while I was gone and is sitting under a tire keeping it stationary :stupid:. 2. You should bleed the slave and see if its working correctly. 3. They could be related but I don't know. 4. Only the Z GOD knows that one.
  6. 280~Master replied to Hrududu's post in a topic in Help Me !!
    This is what the FSM says for the 77 280Z SPECIFICATIONS Engine ......................................................... L28 Radiator Type .................................................... Corrugated fin and tube Cap relief pressure kdcm (psi) .............................................. 0.9(13) Testing pressure kg/cm (psi) ........................ ;... ................. 1.6(23) Water capacity (including engine, liter (U.S. qt, Imp. qt) ...........................10.4 (11, 9 1/8) heater and reservoir tank)
  7. Arnie I never paid over 300.00 for a single parts cars I bought in West,TX In California I bought 2 cars for 600.00 and made 1 complete running Z that I had for 6 years.
  8. 280~Master replied to 280~Master's post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    Ahhh Art you were to come to Denver and do an article on how the classic guys are cooler then the 350 guys. Bummer Will see those who can make it at 6:30..
  9. 280~Master replied to 280~Master's post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    Sounds good to me. Looking forward to meeting some site members for a little BS on Z cars.
  10. You may want to keep in mind the 240sx lower radiator hose temp switch, to install your temp switch with. Its about 20 to 30 bucks at any local autoparts and comes with its own metal housing to use. If you look at my pictures http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&page=2&ppuser=9867 of the electric fan I used you can source alot if it from the junk yard for cheeper than a new one. You don't get more Hourse power from the electric fan, if thats your plan. Maybe 5 HP hardly noticeable. I would stay with the rebuilt fan clutch if you are using a stock radiator. I used the JTR cross flow radiator with a Ford tarus 2 speed fan and a Ford escort wagon fanshroud from the 80's. With the radiator and fan I run what ever the thermostat temp opens at. I must say its nicer and cooler but its also time consuming to replace it all.
  11. Repo This!! Flyin high again Double Dutch bus Get on the bus Condoms aren't completely safe. A friend of mine was wearing one and got hit by a bus. “I'd rather go by bus.” I hope the blonde driving is ok Bus, do your stuff! What are we gonna do? What are we gonna do? What are we gonna do? field trip
  12. 280~Master posted a post in a topic in Interior
    Replacing the dealer AC with factory AC and I am having questions about the AC lines. What angle are the ends of the lines? Are they 45 degree or 37 degree. I am putting in custom lines (stainless steel braided) and have the ability to change the ends.
  13. After trying to clean my tank, which I did get done. I placed the car on level ground and added gas at 1 gal intervals. It took 4 gal to start. Remind you this is from a bone dry tank. So when you run out of gas you really have 3 gal left at the bottom of the tank. So I guess you could run the car down to a low level and drain the gas out then add gas untill it starts and read your gauge to find out your lowest level on your gauge.
  14. 280~Master replied to red_dog007's post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Yes David you are right. I was typing that as the wife was trying to get me to do one of the many things on the honey do list. I never got to finish the post fully. :tapemouth I would not try and swap out the tanks from 240 to 280. It can be done but its kind of a pain in the A$$. I would try to find the right tank for the right job. The pulling of a tank is not hard if you plan it right.
  15. 280~Master replied to red_dog007's post in a topic in Open Discussions
    240's,260's,280s, have the same basic shape to them up until the 77. The 77 78,79,80,81,82,83 use a diferent fuel pump which is accesed from the top of the tank. You can use a 280 tank in a 240 or 260 but the fit will be tight. The carbed tank looks to be a little smaller in size VS the fuel injected tanks. Your fuel injected tanks also have a bigger pick up line than the carbed tanks.
  16. 280~Master replied to hls30.com's post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    I know Will needs a 74 FSM and a 77 FSM to cover from 1970 to 1983
  17. 280~Master replied to mriz's post in a topic in Body & Paint
    Jimmy is right PPg is not a bad product sold it for years. I would use the K36 primer by ppg if you use that product. I would stay away from Omni if at all possible. It only lasts a few years before it has problems. Set up a plastic tent to help keep dust out. Get a good quality clear and apply a min of 3 coats the more the better. If you look at the cars in magazines like Lowrider and stuff you will see they use like 10 to 15 coats of clear on 2 or 3 coats of base. Thats what gives them the shiny show room look. If you are going single stage add a little bit more hardener to get more of a shine/glossy look out of your paint but you have to act fast if you are in a hot climate
  18. 280~Master replied to mriz's post in a topic in Body & Paint
    Dude thats freaking crazy. he is telling you single stage so you have to paint it once and thats it. If you don't have a booth your single stage is going to have dust an dirt all up in the paint. You have to color sand witch can be a pain and before you can buff it up you got to wait 30 days for the paint to cure all the way. Now for BC/CC Easy primer, base, then clear. first pick a matching primer for the base and clear. Ask the paint store if they are compatable (primer and base). Some paints will not stick to certain types of primer. Once you have the primer situated move to the base and clear. Base is easy to work with you just have to apply clear within a certain amount of time after applying the base. One coat of clear and wet sand with1200. Then a second coat of clear and sand again then apply your last coat of clear. let dry and buff to a high shine. You can also try and get a shops painter to do side work for ya.
  19. not for 18000 guy is crazy. if its been in the garage covered by a blanket for its life then why is the engine bay paint fading. I also don't think that with 95,000 original miles you would have to replace all of what he has replaced. I also think there is a dash cap on it. Just my 1 cents
  20. Darbji, Don't worry about Bill. I mean look at the way he dresses. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=13184&cat=500&ppuser=5338
  21. 280~Master replied to ta240's post in a topic in Exhaust
    N47 heads have round exhaust ports. The rest have square exhaust ports. You can use a squared exhaust manifold on a round head like the N47 but you can not use a round exahaust manifold for a square exhaust ported head. I would use the E-30 manifold instead of an exhaust manifold from a 280Z. Just block off the airpump rail. The E-30 is smaller and looks better. My 2 cents

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.