280~Master

You may want to start by replacing the hose that runs from the radiator to the overflow tank, or some people call it the purge tank. This could be rotten and would be logical to leave a black oil looking residue in water. If you had oil getting in the overflow tank you would have major problems. It would be hard to get oil in the overflow tank without having a cracked head gasket or cracked head or block. Your radiator would be full of the same crap as the tank is anyway. I would also replace the radiator cap on the radiator along with the hose inside of the overflow tank. The radiator cap could be bad and be letting to much steam pass into the tank. I have seen this on many different kinds of cars but never tried to fix this problem myself. If it was me with this problem I would replace everything I said above and see what happens. Good luck John

This should cover you on the hose sizes for your tank. As far as the fuel line in the engine compartment I always get the 3/8 line. It seems to work out just fine for me. I also get plenty of extra hose due to the cheap cost of it per foot. It never hurts to have an extra couple of inches

Will do on the thermometer today. I don't have the FSM for my year but have on for the 240 in PDF format. It never boils over and always seems like the readiator stays about the same temp. Thanks, John

So I have a heating problem in the Z :disappoin and I changed the thermostat put a new/old fan clutch on, along with flushing the radiator and cleaning it out. I still have to replace the temp sensor and the water pump (last resort). Temp sensor is next. Went for a test drive to see how the temp does at high speeds. Well no luck on the items I have replaced.:hurt: I might have a bad gauge. I will test it in the morning. I am still running hotter than I want it to run, about ¾ on the temp gauge. It never over heats all the way but it gets to the point to were it is scary. Anyway I pull up to this red light on Abercorn (local main street) and I see a Mustang next to me with the top down and 2 gauges on the hood. So I rev the motor (no muffler ) and look over and he and his girl are in the car. I guess headed to the hot night spot for Mustangs. :eek: The light turns green and we get it on. I pull off the line and I got a 3 or 4 foot lead on this guy, so I wave bye at him and start to shift into third when he starts to pull up and get the lead. Then they wave bye to me like they were going to win. So I stay in second and rap it out to about 6000 RPMs and pull back ahead of him. I then shift into third and take off. I pull way ahead them and then slow down to a snails pace. I turn on the hazard lights and wait for the guy but he would not come back for seconds (I can see him in the rear view while I wait for him). I thought he would want to try again but I guess his girl told him he had been beat by something either one those 20 year olds had never seen on the road before. It makes you feel powerful to know that Z car still has what it takes to out run the new muscle cars that the major car companies are putting out these days.. P.S. I have a stock engine in the Z. The only thing I have done is cut the mufflers out and removed the bumpers.. Boy is it fast 

Sounds great looking forward to them.

Tap Tap on the shoulder. Everyone should have a set.. Just 3 more..

Jonathan, I have seen a couple of murals on the inside of the hood. I want to get one under my hood to. I want a real nice Z painted under the hood. The paint is cool on this Z but its not my style. I would drive it if I had the chance..

Lets go guys and gals. I know someone wants a couple of more sets.

here try this out.. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/shifterbushing/index.html I didn't use the same size bushings as this set of instructions saide due to the fact that the numbers changed. Its still a Chrysler door pin kit that I used I can't remember the part # but just look for the Chrysler door pin kit.

Ok so now we got 5 sets guys lets all get in on these while there here..

Jonathan, I will take a set of those. Count me in on this one. I will take 2 sets of them. Do I have to pay shipping from you to me? I hope not then again for me to drive somewhere it cost 2.50 every 15 miles or so. But yeah I will get 2 of them. Count me in...

You may want to try the search function on this. There is loads of info on this swap for you to blow around.. http://classiczcars.com/forums/search.php

Ok let look at it like this. inside you have 2 seats that can hold about 6 people maybe 7. A driver, someone on his lap, then someone in front of the seat on the floor. Now the passenger seat should hold two in the seat and two on the floor. Now the back hatch being closed you could get about 5 people in there. So thats what 3+4+5=12 peps. You could probly get more in these spots if the person was little or very flexable.

I was in my 75 280 one nice hot summer day in texas. Pulled up to a red light and next to me is a nice 90's Camero. We zipped through a couple of green lights and then we got a red one. I was ready and had betten plenty of cars like this with this 280. Had some nice mods but thats another story. Any way the light turned green and I took off. I had him off the line and just about to get through the light and I hear a loud POP from under the hood. Then no power at all. Of course the guy looks over and laughs at me while I'm putting down the street. I was lucky though all that happened was I poped 2 rocker arms off they were both sitting sideways. I thought for sure that I had blown the engine..

That is for fog lights I think. Mine has a piece of plastic in there that just blocks off the hole.

I've seen this before. It will work, but how long is the question? You can run it for a while but I would get on the heater core as soon as possible. There is also the hardware store and some 90 degree elbows. I would feel beter to use the elbows for my car.

Yes there is a way to be able to do it without removing the trans. I would pull the engine out of the car then you would have access to the throwout fork. Your trans would stay right in place and you could even get eye level with the throwout fork if need be. But seriously there is no way.

Will, I would love to have the car just flashs down the street. Love to drive fast form a stop and on the road. I think that people should have a Z that runs great and has NO RUST but with a car this old, that is near impossible.

Welcome to the Z world. Hope your Z adventures are as fun as mine have been. Just don't forget to use the search on the site. There is a bunch of information out there for the Z car on this site with alot of experience on the Z car. Good luck and have fun...

WOW what a steal that was for the winner. I would have paid that in a heartbeat for a car like that..

Right now I want just a kit to get this other engine going. Something fun and enjoyable. The car is a daily driver now and has an engine that burns oil pretty bad. Once the new engine gets finished and in the car the other engine will be the one that gets all the LOVE if you know what I mean. I am tired of a quart of oil every other day . This engine build is for a fun driver right now. My plan is to have a car that has 2 engines. One for the track and one for the street. I will have the fuel harness unplug at the firewall and be able to pull the engine in about 2 hours so it can go to the track in a couple minutes notice. Plus the cost of a kit VS the cost of each part is a little better for me right now with shipping and all that stuff. Engine Prices.zip

If you have mech. ability they are not that hard to rebuild. Just take your time with them and soakem in some parts cleaner first. The tuning part of it gets a little hard. Use the right oil in them tune them up and BAM you have a nice set of carbs. I would shine them up if I had them. 180, 250, 500, 1200 and buff them to a shine. Thats just my .5 cents.

Ok, so I have done a little more checking around for a master kit. I have found a place out of Alabama that will get a complete kit, Pistons, Cam, Bearings, Gaskets and all that jazz. The name of this place is HI-TECH http://www.hi-techengine.com/index.htm From what I was told by the service rep, was the parts are put together from different brands and sold in one kit. Bearings are Clevite, rings are Hastings (moly set) ect ect. So it seems like most of the parts are good quality brands. Just wondering if anyone has ever heard of this place and used there products? The kits is going to cost 927.00 and the part number is NI2753MJ03. It is for the 81 to 83 non-turbo.

Jonathan, I wonder if its the same place that I had my exhaust done for the truck? It was in garden city on HWY 80 just past the movie theater on the right in a blue building. Small blue building between 3rd and 5th st I believe. If thats the place they don't do exhaust any more. Just auto repairs they were cheap. I had my 91 Chevy truck dueled out with flow master and like 30" tips put on for under 200.00. Its still there with no problems and sounds like a beast... The cash and carry is located off of Stayley ave. Easy way to get there is go down Derenne ave towards 516 and take a right on Montgomery St. At glass masters (what momma says momma does) Then turn left at the first light which is Staley Ave go down about 1/2 mile and its on the right. cost is 1 dollar to get in. There is also a muffler shop just across the street.

Yes it is possible to put it in the wrong way. There is a little tab on the right side of the sending unit mounting hole that lines up with the sending unit so it will be in the right direction. When I did my take this tab was bent down just enough that the sending unit would not catch it and stay when i secured the ring in place.