280~Master

It almost looks as if it might be from where the tank is sealed at. You could drop the tank take it to a radiator shop and have them clean and pressure test it for you and see where it may be coming from. That color does not look very goog. Has some rust in the tank like most of these tanks do. I would Take it in and have it tested to find out where it is coming from. I think that hose there is just a vent hose and should run at the top off the tank. ther are some threads on here that tell you how to bypass this hose all together. http://classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=9503&d=1128801645 http://classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=9504&d=1128801645 or just read this thread on how to por 15 your tank. http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19034&highlight=gas+tank

It depends on what type of ring you are getting. I have done a little research on rings for the z and found a couple of canidates. I am going with chrome moly ring just for the longer life they are supposed to have. Takes longer to seat but supposed to be better all around. You can go with regular iron rings. More cost effective plus iron takes less time to seat than moly rings do. Then you have to think about the brand you are getting. I have been told buy my local Z mechanic that taylor makes a good set of rings. He said something about a brand that made the oil ring in 4 differt parts you had to put together. I can't remember what the name was but I'm sure it started with a D dinks or dink something like that. From person experience when it comes to the inside of my engines I like to get things that are going to work the first time. Just make sure you are getting a well known brand that is proven to work correctly. Your machine shop should be able to help out with advice also. John

Will Think I will probly get fittings from him (sweet performance) sometime after the first of the new year. I got to make up my list on everything that I need. will probly do that in the next day or 2.

I am looking for a place to buy some AN Fittings that don't cost $15 a piece like at the local auto store. I found this place http://www.sweetperformance.com/ and they seem pretty reasonable but is there others out there?

sblake01, Thanks those will be helpful

Does anyone have a 76 that is in PDF format?

I would buy this for one reason and one reason only. The engine, maybe the diff out of it if it was a R200 3:90 or 4:11. The 79 from what I have heard is one of the worst ZEDs ever made. It weighs more than a fat bird on turkey day :eek: and is not that fast (Stock). I know in 79 that was the first year for the ZX body style. It lost alot of power due to the weight and emission restrictions. Don't get me wrong its still a Z and I love Z cars but if i was going to buy a Z a 79 would be my last choice of them all. I do believe there is some threads out there that discuss what had changed in 79. If you did a search you might find some good info about them. I believe Carl (Bambikiller) knows alot about this car and what changes were made. I may be wrong but I do believe I read something about the 79 and Carl had a lot of info about it. I had one about 10 years ago and took the engine out of it and sold it to the junk yard for $100. Now I am just one guy with just one opinion so don't get mad if I have said bad things about a Zed.

Ok while the site was down :disappoin did some other research on building my engine. Found a thread on Hybrid Z about improved valve stem seals on a L6 engine. Here is the thread with some pics. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=90825&highlight=felpro+ss72686 What was said is that Ford seals from a German Ford 2.9l V6 will fit the L6 engine. The part number for these are Felpro SS72686. I am wondering has anyone ever heard of this or used these seals for there head rebuild.

Has anyone ever bought from this place. Looks like there is a good bit of items for the Zeds. Prices don't look that bad. http://www.upgrademotoring.com/performance/240z.htm

Looking at your picture you need to replace the one in the red circle. What I would do is when the temp gauge is working go and pull the red wire if you temp gauge stops working you know which one to replace. They are very easy to replace and don't cost that much. Will interchange with many different years. Take it with you to the parts store and try your year. If they don't have it go up in years and see if they have one for say 76. Just make sure it has the same threads and is the same size. Good luck

Ok, I pulled engine and trany out of the parts car today so I can take it to machine shop and have work done to it. Got the block all nice and stripped for the shop so the work will take less time. Everything looked good, nothing to bad. Did break an exhaust stud off in the head on number 1 cyl. That was the only bad thing that happened today. Guess I will get it drilled out while its at the shop. What I did notice is that there is a stamp on my crank that says P30. Wondering if any one knows what this is? I'm guessing it would be a part number..

I am pulling an engine out of the parts car I have in the yard. Knowing I want to rebuild it for street racing (To kill ricers, Mustangs, Camaros ECT) I have come up with a small plan to get what I want. I am looking for some advice from anyone who wants to give it. Ok my plan starts like this. Non EGR FI L28 block N42 head 5 Speed trany For the L28 block I plan on doing a couple of things. 1. Decking the block 2. Flat top pistons 3. Polish underside of the block (supposed to be better oil flow this way) 4. New rod bolts 5. New bearings, seals, oil components, water pump, timing chain ECT. For the N42 head I want to 1. Port and polish 2. Bigger valves 3. New valve train parts 4. Nice camshaft with good characteristics. For the camshaft any opinions would really help… As said before I am building a street racer that will be used quite often. Thanks,

At least you got the smooth hose in there. How strong are the dryer hoses? Can you get it in 3inch, or is that what the short rubber is for (adapter)? I wonder how jiggly the dryer hose will be. Would it need some kind of support? Correct you use the rubber adapter to fit the dryer hose. It is usally 4 " and has to be fitted to fit. Its not jiggly at all. You only use about a 1 1/2 ft of the hose. When the hose is colapsed it is pretty sturdy. My was there when I bought the car and have never changed it and all is fine. Just make a bracket for the air filter..

Here is a hint put it back on or you will end up in trouble. Nice thought was there any reasoning with that? I have quick air filter fix for ya. 1 Go and buy the front cone section of a K&N type of filter. 2 Buy 3 large hose clamps about 3". 3 Now go to home depot and find the pluming section. Get a 3" rubber boot about 3 to 4" long. 4 Now while at home depot get your self a nice dryer hose. Preferably you should get the metal type of hose and flexible. 5 You have to remove your current cold air intake. 6 Place the new air filter on the rubber boot and clamp with #1 clamp. 7 Place flex hose on other opening and clamp with #2 clamp. 8 Run flex hose through opening toward air flow meter and attach to air flow meter with #3 clamp. Now you have a cold air intake that works like it should. P.S. Don't forget to tie up the cone section so it does not fall off. Suggest a home made bracket or even a nice shoe lace (Chrome plated of course)

Montoya, It says to give it 24 hours to dry I am going with 48 to 72 hours just to make sure it is dry. The can said to make sure it is dry or it will never dry. I guess its like the paint in the bottom of the paint can looks dry but when you touch it you get stuck in a goo.

Montoya, Good questions But I ran low airpressure back through the lines to make sure that they were not cloged. I also pulled the drain plug out when I pulled off the tape. I didn't put it so it is draining out of the tank just set it up so the extra Red-Kote will flow to that side of the tank. Just like the instructions say to do. Acetone is great at soaking up the extra water. I used the MEK because that is what the manufacturer says to use. It cost just about the same as acetone and sat right next to it on the shelf. I think MEK is a little stronger though.

I have been having problems with the fuel system now for a couple of weeks. Every time the car is below ¼ of a tank it sputters and misses like it is starving for fuel. Which it is. I figured this by replacing the fuel filter with no results. I then blew out the lines with compressed air and this worked until I added gas and sloshed the rust around. So I have come to believe that the tank has so much rust it is clogging the pick up when the fuel is low. I know now that the tank has got to be redone. I was lucky and received a parts car from HLS30, Great guy, not to long ago. What fun that was getting it to my house. I will have to post that story later. 1. I pulled that tank out of the parts car to see if it was any better than mine. Not hard to due at all, 5 clamps, 4 screws and both straps and POW it was on the ground. The only time I jacked up the car was to pull the tank out from under the car. 2. I had flushed it with water to get all the crap out of it before taking it to the shop. The tank had about a quart of rust in it. 3. I took the tank to a local radiator shop and had them boil the tank and treat it with acid. This took about 3 days for them to complete the process. 4. While the tank was drying I had gone to the local Lowes Depot, HA HA, and purchased 2qts of MEK. You will find this in the paint section. It is a paint thinner that is used for glues and epoxy type stuff. Almost the same as Acetone but has a better evaporation rate than Acetone. 5. I then let the tank sit for a day out in the sun to dry up. I still had a little wetness in the tank so I took a clothes hanger and taped a rag to the end of it and dried up the rest of the wetness. 6. I taped up the openings in the tank with great all American duck tape. All but the filler opening. 7. With most of the water gone I pored the 1st qt of MEK into the tank, taped up the filler opening and shook the sh!t out of it. 8. I popped the drain plug drained the MEK into a bucket and boy was it black. 9. Added the 2nd qt of MEK and shook the sh!t out of the tank again. By now my arms are sore from shaking and dancing with my gas tank. 10. I drained the 2nd flush into the bucket and let the tank sit for about 5 minutes. 11. I then retaped all of the openings of the tank with duck tape except for the filler opening. 12. I then put a qt of RED-KOTE into the tank and slowly turned the tank in all directions to allow for complete coverage. This takes about 10 minutes. 13. I removed all the duck tape and drained the remainder of the RED-KOTE out of the filler neck. 14. I then placed the tank in a sunny spot with the drain plug in the downward position so the RED-Kote will dry up. The drying time should be about 24 to 48 hours depending on the weather and temperature. I went with RED-Kote due to the fact the shop had it in stock and he has been doing this for over 30 years and has been using this product with great results. He has done many Z tanks from a local VW/Z shop for years. The cost was also on the mind with this project only costing me $70 and about 2 to 3 hours labor. If there are any questions just let me know and I will get the answer back as soon as possible. As long as the question is not something like, Why is the sky blue?

I my self don't realy care for them in the car. Due to the fact that one of my favorite parts of my Z is driving at night and having very little light in the car. I love the darkness of the inside I feal more stealthy. John

I would start like this. Try and set the engine at TDC (Top Dead Center) once you set that you can loosen up the distributer and with the cap off and the ingnition in the ON position move ths distro until up see the spark where the number one wire would be. Then tighen up the distro and try and start it. Once started you can set the timing. Good Luck, John

I am looking for the same thing here in GA. Think I will go with HNDAKLR (Honda Killer) John

I am looking for one here in GA right now I think I will go with HNDAKLR (Honda Killer)

78 280Z CAR, your air regulator has 2 hoses on it under one of them is the connection if this is loose its probly the problem. Mine would just pull out of the regulator housing. This should be sealed tight on to the regulator. If its loose you probly need a new one. I found a used one it was more cost effective. Good Luck, John

What does it look like? How is it shaped? Do you have a picture of the pipe? This stuff would help out alot. John

Will, I like your idea of smoothing out the runners. Just making air flow a little bit better and smoother should give a Z a few more ZZZ's under the hood. As far as the variable vane vortex generator. That would be a dream setup. In theory it would force more air into the cylinder for more bang . John

ddezso, This includes my parts cars. I have had 4 that were drivable. My first was a 77 and it had a warped head. I was a newbe there and sold it for 300. The next was a 75 and 76 picked them up at a wrecking yard for 600. One was totaled with new performance engine and one had a great body (orange) with a whole in the block (Driver side) the size of a softball. Can you believe i got that one started with the whole in the side of it. Did a motor swap at my apartment on the side of the street. Had that car for 6 years and loved her madley. Then I just started to buy cars from back yards and fixing them and selling them to people to enjoy. I had my baby so why not let others have one to. had a couple 240's a 260, 79 280, 76 2+2 and the rest were 280's. John