Phacade

If you did not replace the pump do so now. Worst case scenario: You have a new pump. When I rebuilt my L28, I used the red sealant and used it sparingly. I have has 100% no leaks and a cool engine. You might want to consider having the front cover bead clasted for an extra clean cover, it pretty much guarantees no leaks. Don't buy the pump from Pep Boys, a friend of mine did and it was no good. I spent the extra buck and got it from MSA.

When I got rid of the makeshift choke from my '73 (which I think might have been a lawnmower cable??), I read the Haynes. I talked to Sam at MSA, and spent a long time forming a strategy. Now this could be completely different on other year cars, however it seems correct given the hardware and all. My choke cable(s) were factory, 1 lever going to two actuators. I install them in the center consol, then souted them underneath the consol, arounf the under the dash through the passenger side, up through an existing hole and out. The factory choke has a rubber grommit that was about 3 inches long and has a notch to mount it in this hole. Fits like a glove. No leaks, OEM look. Now from under the hood (looking from front of car) the hole was on the left, still passenger side, about 5 inches below the hood latch. There was a bracket on the valve cover the looked like a "V" the held each of the cables seperatly. From here the went over and stright to my SU's. It took two people to adjust them properly; one in the car and one under the hood. Hope this helps.

Heat shield went in fine, actually I modified a '73 head shield and attached the springs directly to it. I took the twice pipes to a locl muffler shop to install, a little cutting was necessary where the twin chrome pipes poke out, but it was worth it. As far as the noise, it was noisy as hell at first but then got quieter. Now it is just a dull roar unless I really get on it.

I just posted a site with more information on this car for sale: www.geocities.com/datsun240_1973/index.html

Actually I am still at work, won't get my email until tonight. I will email you once I get home. But until then: Yes it has been painted, It was originally Brown (Yuk) but was painted Candy apple red. After about a year I noticed A few bubbles on the fender and the roof. I promptly got out the angle grinder and took car of this, primered and put some Red Rustoleum on the spot. Strangly enough, it matched the paint almost perfect. I had planned to strip it down completely and pain tthe whole car again (even though I had literally 3 or four spots). Of course I never did get to strip it down and repaint, hence the reason I am selling it for what I am and not $7-8K.

SU's are round top. I paid about $750 for them, came with all the original linkage, '70 model crossover valve, hoses, and polished intake manifold, complete with insulators. I have the original choke mated to it as well. Not noted is the car has 15" wheels, gold honeycomb design. Similair to the "78 Trans-am wheels. Tires are vc condition, rear P245/50/15, front P225/50/15.

1973 Datsun 240Z, rebuilt '81 280ZX L28, Z therapy SU carbs. Forged pistons, 3-angle valve job on P79 head. F54 block. 4 core radiator, ZX electronic ignition. Motorsports 6-1 headers with dual exhaust free flow exhaust to dual glass packs. 5-speed transmission from '81 280ZX, '78 shifter handle for clearance and shifter throw. Near flawless interior. Tan leather seats, practically time traveled from 1973. Dash has a few cracks, its only real flaw. Custom mats, Exterior good but not what I would consider great. Great belongs in a magazine, good gets you alot of ohs and ahs around town. Very little rust. Floorpans look good. Custom wheels. Asking $5000, considering all the $$ I have in it. Runs great, Really a pleasure to drive.

Actually I plan on selling my 240Z soon. I have 2 Z's and unfortunatly cannot keep both. I have about $10K invested in it but I realize I will probably not get this much. Lets see, the car: 1973 Datsun 240Z, rebuilt '81 280ZX L28, Z therapy SU carbs. Forged pistons, 3-angle valve job on P79 head. F54 block. 4 core radiator, ZX electronic ignition. Motorsports 6-1 headers with dual exhaust free flow exhaust to dual glass packs. 5-speed transmission from '81 280ZX, '78 shifter handle for clearance and shifter throw. Near flawless interior. Tan leather seats, practically time traveled from 1973. Dash has a few cracks, its only real flaw. Custom mats, Exterior good but not what I would consider great. Great belongs in a magazine, good gets you alot of ohs and ahs around town. Very little rust. Floorpans look good. Custom wheels. Asking $5000, considering all the $$ I have in it. Runs great, Really a pleasure to drive.

I can fill part of your list. Driver's seat mechanism cover, off 280Z but am told it will work. Inside door handles & escutcheons. Good shape. Door lock pull-knob trim rings, any will work, got to Pep Boys. Hand brake handle. Good shape, off 280Z but same stuff. Window crank handles, got a bunch of these. I would take $50 plus shipping for all. Lemme know.

I have heard alot of the 280Z parts will work here. I probably have some. Lemme know specifically what you need.

My '75 280Z has a gas tank that has been hit on something, almost looks like you rolled up under it feet facing the engine and punched straight up. As a result the float goes to the 1/8 tank spot and stops. Not too bad except I am ertain that I am missing a gallon capacity, and I can easily run out of gas once it gets to 1/8 tank. Any suggestions? Can I remove the tank and repair or would I be best to shop for another?

I have some tires that came on a car I ust bought that I really do not car for. Don't ge me wrong, they are nice. They are a honeycomb/spider web design. Gold rims with silver polish. They look similair to the stock rims on a '78 Trans-am. Kinda. Sorry no photo right now. Back tires BF Goodrich P245/50/15, front P235/50/15. $400 for all. Plus shipping.

The headers are by Hooker, 6 into two design. They were originally installed on a friends 280Z ('75 I think) with a N47 head. They are used, but less than 100 miles I know for certain. They are almost, but not quite, to that stage where one could claim they were new. I like these more than the Motorsport headers I have, seeing as where they bolt on is actually bolt holes and not slots like the Motorsports version. They seem more rugged as well. I would bolt 'em on myself, but when I think of all the work involved, I would rather just sell them.

I recently came across some Z parts and bought them, took what I needed and need to sell the rest. I have: Hooker coated headers, 6-2, gc, $75 Two 15" wheels, black, Spider web design, ec, $100 Heads, with valves, cams, etc. I have four sets, most N47. Best offer. Wiring harness, Fuel injection parts, interior parts. Best offer. Heater core, blower motor. Best offer. Dash cap. ec. $50 RUnning condition L28, EFI, complete. 82K. Best offer. Lights, gauges, lens. Best offer. Just about anything else in between, mostly 280Z parts.

Well I plan to put my '73 up for sale soon. Lets see, it has a rebuilt L28 from an '81 280ZX, near flawless interior (minus the cracked dash). 5-speed from the same '81 280ZX. Engine as Z therapy SU carbs, Motorsports 6-1 headers, dual exhaust, eletronic ignition. Interior is rare tan and exterior is canfdy apple red. Carpet looks great, seats look brand new from 1973. Outlaw II style rims. Great car. But I cannot keep both Z's. I am asking $5000.00 ( I have over $15K invested). You can call at 918-382-0057. Tulsa

Well I will certainly try it. It was kinda weird though, was driving just fine then it was like it was underwater.

My Z as of late sounds like it is running under water. I rebuilt a '81 L28 for my '73 in 2000, SU carbs, headers. Seemed to run fine. I knew it was running rich due to the black crap that seems to collect on the tailpipe (and about every month or so I need to clean my left taillight of that black frost). The engine has about 7000 on her. While driving home last night, was running fine. Al of a sudden the engine tone went down an octive, as if it was running under water. My guess is something fuel related. Maybe timing. Is it possible it just worked its way that far out of timing. My gas milage has been sucking lately anyway, Last carb adjust on the SUs was mid 2000. Any other thoughts?

I'd say somewhere around 250hp. I assume if your going all out you will opt for a little head work while your at it? When I rebuilt my '81F54 block I used a '81 P79 head and it seems to work well, however I have '70 SU carbs from Z therapy. Another thing to ask yourself is the trans, 5-speed. I used a '78 shift handle to clear the tunnel on my '73 240Z and as a result didn't have to cut anything. R200 rear end works well in the 240Z.

A little background: '73 240Z, '81 L28 with dual SU carbs, headers, 4-core radiator. Has run the same temp for over a year, needle dead center between the 'E' and 'M' on the temp gauge. My Z recently started running a little warmer than normal. Just a millimeter or two right on the temp gauge but enough to notice. Now I do have a bit of an oil leak but this should not affect the temp should it? I have been dealing with this oil leak for over a year now and never has the temp came off dead center before. Radiator is new, well last year anyway. Water pump is new, topped off the coolant. Its like just enough to but you, alot! Any ideas here? What would make a Z start running a few degrees hotter?

I got a email saying someone responded to my post the other day and I'm like "When did I post?". Of course this was over a years ago and my Z did run like poop then. Come to find out the cam timing was way off (try 15 degrees). Once she was lined up my Z came to life. I am having a bit of a new problem now though, howbeit a minor one. My Z recently started running a little warmer than normal. Just a a millimeter or two right on the temp gauge but enough to notice. Now I do have a bit of an oil leak but this should not affect the temp should it? I have been dealing with this oil leak for over a year now and never has the temp came off dead center before. Radiator is new, well last year anyway. Water pump is new, topped off the coolant. Its like just enough to but you, alot! Any ideas here? What would make a Z start running a few degrees hotter?

Please accept my apology for not emailing but have had, and am having bigtime computer problems. The carbs do have a manifold, and cross-over valve as well. As they were recently rebuilt I'd like $100 plus whatever it cost to ship them, the manifold and the crossover valve. Sadly, there is no linkage, broke it when I removed it. As far as the wheels are concerned, I have no jpeg, although I did se them in the earlier Motorsport catalog, the one with the blue 280ZX on the front, The have approx 12 3" holes around the centercap, good condition. No cracks, scrapes and look good. I, however, don't like the style. I'd like $100 plus shipping. Or you could pick thrm up if your close to Tulsa OK.

Got some new exhaust on my Z. I'm sure most of you now know what I'm packing from all my posts while building her last year. But for those who dont... 1973 240Z, rebuilt '81 L28 F54 block, P79 head, headers, electronic ignition, 6-1 headers, '70 SU carbs from Z therapy -w- original air box (K&N), '81 5-speed, '81 R200, strut bars front and back, polyurethane soon to be installed. Anycase I got some new exhaust, called twice pipes, from Motorsports this weekend and had a local shop (for those of you in Tulsa, Leons in Sapulpa does GREAT work!) install it. Basically from the collector on the headers it splits into two 1 3/4" piper all the way back to two glass packs. While definatly louder than the stock system, it has a great sound. The engine is also breathing alot easier.

Got a few 240Z parts I need to unload, not really what they are worth so email me if interested. Outlaw II 14x6 rims, great shape. Nothing wrong with 'em just don't like the style. Intake manifold. Weber carbs, with round air cleaners, looks good. Went for the round top SU's myself. taillights, '73, good shape, no cracks. starter '81 alt. '83 taillights. power ant., '81 Ramflo air cleaner for early SU carbs, used for about 2 weeks before getting original air box mechanical fuel pump, '73. New. Put it on to see if it worked but decided to go electrical.

Fuel pump went last night actually, friend across the street wanted it for a '71 GMC (yeah, I thought that was strange too). The rear view mirrior is in good shape, has tan molding I believe, to go with the tan interior. $5 plus shipping should cover it. Louvers are in great shape, black in color. Pity I can't use them on my '73. I paid over $200 for them new but $50 plus shipping is what I expect used are worth (not that they were really ever used, they do just sit there after all). If interested let me know and I will find out what UPS will charge to ship them.

I'll post this in the body/paint forum as well as I am sick and tired of my doors. My '73 240Z has doors that just don't want to click. I have to slam the poop out of them to get them to stay shut all the way. If I simply close them gently or my wife does, it closes but one could jiggle the door maybe 1/2" or so. The solution up until now is to slam it hard, sometimes three or four times, to get it to shut. There has got to be some way to adjust them so you can shut it regularly and it stay shut and not jiggle. Of couse when it jiggles, it will not lock. Please help!! timberwolf@geotec.net