Phacade

Thanks, but the mouse under the hood is all but dead. I seriously need to rebuild.

Good thing about the funny thing in my ear, it falls off every day about 2pm. But it grows back when I get to the office the next day.

Certainly. My coworkers have been downloading me and putting a moustache and beard on me. Hey its all good clean fun (at my expense).

Poor mans cold air intake, I took the top off the airbox and left the sides so I could screw the filter down.

Last one.

Another angle.

So it is not perfect, Lord knos it does not run nearly as good as my 240Z used to, but it looks okay.

A closer look at that u-joint

1. I think the steering column might be too close to my headers, there is a slight rub mark on both the headers and on the steering column. 2. The steering u-joint. Is this replaceable? I seem to have alot of play in the wheel and I think this might be where its coming from. I didn't circle it, but the steering coupler needs replaced, any success with poly?

Yeah, its a '70 Ford Mustang Boss 302. Nice car really. I just thought I'd make a funny face and thus alleviate some boredom. Didn't really work, however.

Okay so its Sunday and I'm working. Outta be a crime. But I'm getting paid and therefore really should complain.

It should be somewhat solid reving through the band up to 7000 rpm. You mentioned that feels like its out of breath. It might be. I would check your fuel pump, fuel filter, intake to make certain its getting enough air, mixture in your carbs (or injectors if EFI). If EFI check AFM. You might check your compression, check timing chain for slack, valves could be burnt, etc. Sometimes carbon buildup in your intake can do this as well. Check your exhaust, if severly dampened it can reduce higher end running. Check timing. Check travel of petal and linkage. Check belts for tightness or slack. Harmonic balancers can benifit from a good lookover; sometimes if off center they can pull enevenly and reduce RPM. Just a few ideas to get you started.

While I am not entirely certain what you mean by Z roar, is this your first Z? The inline six makes a distintive sound that you may not be used to if your comparing it to other engines. Can you be more specific on the sound? You might try taping it and making a .wav file and posting it so we can better assist you. Um, did you say 280ZX? [Looks up at site name and back down again]. Um, okay.

Kinda reminds me of an old girlfriend.

Hey CARGUYINOK, your avatar; what is it? It kinda looks like that actor from Mortal Kombat, Cary Hiroyuki Tagawa.

Hey CARGUYINOK, your avatar; what is it? It kinda looks like that actor from Mortal Kombat, Cary Hiroyuki Tagawa.

Again, this topic had no post and it looked lonely. But seeing as I actually had an on topic topic, well you get the idea. What has everyone been using to clean their tires? Spray foam? The rub on goop? Spray on and wipe off stuff? How long does it last? Does it clean the raised white letters on your tires very well?:classic:

This forum looked lonely. But keeping on topic, I was and have been wondering if anyone has had any success or opinions of multi-colored interior dome lights. I believe red/green/blue/etc are all available and are a stright bulb swap. Obviously they will give out colored light, but is it easier on the eyes at night, for example, when reading a map. I mean, it works in a submarine; right?

Someone definatly spent the wrench time on that car. I like the stance, agressive yet no overly so. I wonder how it handles?

Hope this helps: Back when I put the 5-speed in my 240Z, I used a '78 shifter handle from a '78 5-speed. It is more bent than the original and clear the tunnel without any cutting. Then I replaced the leather shift boot.

Good point about it being your Z and therefore being done your way. Everyone has theier own version of what they want thier Z to be. I had two but was forced to sell one of my Z's. My remaining Z is a '75 280Z, although with the body and bumper mods it looks more like a 240Z. The '83 turbo scoop on the hood really sets it apart from the rest. Future plans include a fresh L28 rebuild, a different 5-speed, etc. Etc. Don't let anyone tell you what your doing is wrong because there is no such thing. Unless you make it look like a Honda Civic; in which case we would have to tar and feather you.

You know Miami is not that far from Tulsa. One of these weekends maybe we can bump heads and try to figure those carbs out. More than likely, however, it simply sat for awhile. Carbs can be tricky and despite being SU's, if they sat for 5 years they may need a good rebuilding. Thrashers carb shop here in Tulsa does a decent job, or you may consider going for the already rebuilt SU carbs from Z therapy ( www.ztherapy.com ). Like I said I had a pair and they were great. Scott at Ztherapy talked with me on the phone for a long time before and explained how he rebuilds them using 'gross jets'. Good stuff. I was fortunate enough to get '70 model SU carbs for my '73 240Z. Of course I had to sell it. Bummer too because I loved that car. If you do get a good running '83, check the block and head casting number. Block is located on passenger side, below cylinder #5. Head is on head (duh) between cylinders 1 and 2. I would strongly consider rebuilding this engine and dropping it in your Z. You might also want to grab the ZX 5-speed and R200 rear end, they drop in your 240Z as well. If you do choose to go with the ZX 5-speed, get a '78 280Z shifter handle. It mounts on your transmission and will clear the tunnel fine. No cutting, looks factory. No much else is useful from the 280ZX unless you want to do a rear disc brake conversion. There are a couple schools of thought on this, some use the rear ZX disc brakes and fab the mount. I have heard of using the fron t brakes and flipping them backwards. Downside to this is there is no way to utilize the emergency brake. Lemme know how it goes. Oh there is the most important matter for your new Z; Have you named it yet?

Na, too early to time anyone, I have to get to work around 4:30am.

If you are swapping the enire block and head into your 240Z, then all will bolt up fine. If you leave your block and swap over the head from the '83 280ZX then it will still bolt up fine but your headers probably won't. You said it is a non-turbo Z? Most likely you have a P79 head. Check the head casting to be certain. On the off chance you have a P90 or P90a head (turbo head) then you will be able to use your headers. Your '73 head had square exhaust ports while most of the later heads had round ports. I say later in reference to 280ZX heads. A few 280ZX's had the N47 head and therefore had square ports. Bottom line, square exhaust ports will enable you to use your existing headers. You could also just swap the intak manifold and EFI over to your '73 head and block and leave your headers where they are. You might be able to leave the calibration where it is although from seeing and talking to several Z nuts, swapping EFI from a 280ZX over to a more or less stock L24 requires calibration of the ECU and possibly the injectors. Of course wiring needs to be modded either way, new fuel lines run, new fuel pump added, etc, etc. So whats the problem with your SU's anyway? Ever consider a carb rebuild? When I still had my 240Z, I went with Z therapy SU carbs and they were wonderful. Consider and plan carefully before jupming into a big project. :classic:

I thought it was if in doubt; JB Weld. I swear when I was a kid my Dad held the entire car together with JB Weld and duct tape. Oh and coat hangers. Lots of coat hangers.