ddezso

Can anyone recommend who can perform a history check on a Z Car? All of the online services require a 17 digit VIN. I called my insurance company and they wouldn't do it. Thanks

First thing is to compare the VIN # on the firewall in the engine compartment to the VIN's on the dash and other ID plates (like door jamb and engine compartment).

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OK guys - get a load of this. This is from Carl Beck. I sent in the original VIN to register on his site, then sent a note saying I discovered it was the wrong VIN. I suppose this could be a lesson to everyone. I am interested in yor thoughts and what you would do. I am confident the seller had no idea or bad intent and I love the car and want to keep it. The title references the wrong official VIN #. Hi Derek: #14160 would still be a Series I, 240-Z (meaning it has the same body style as all cars built between Oct. 1969 and Jan. of 1971. with the fresh air exhaust vents on the deck lid)... But it is more than likely it was originally sold as, and titled as a 1971 Model Year 240-Z. It would have had a build date of 11/70, so it most likely didn't arrive at the dealership for sale until around Jan or Feb of 1971. Your first concern - is that if for some reason any law enforcement officer runs that original VIN (14160) and finds it was reported either stolen, or totalled - - - they can and will impound the car on the spot. If you are in an accident and they check the car - your in real trouble. Likewise this could be real trouble with your insurance company. If it's wrecked, and the adjustor checks the VIN's... he'll tell the insurance company it isn't the car you had insured (the VIN's don't match). That could leave you in very bad position with no personal liability coverage! (something that could take you a lifetime to pay off if a judgment was entered against you... NOT GOOD). It is "possible" that the car was rebuilt out of a junk yard - in which case by law it should have been assigned a new VIN by the Department of Motor Vehicles, and that should have been indicated on the title. It is "possible" that someone owned both cars and simply used the newer body shell - to replace the original one. In that case, to be on the correct side of the law, a law enforcement officer should have been present when the VIN on the dash was removed.... and after the "full body replacement" was accomplished, that same officer should have been present when the VIN was placed back in the car. Of course any buyer should then be furnished with copies of that paperwork - so they would know it was done legally and without intent to defraud. At this point - because you know that the chassis doesn't match the VIN - if you resell it to someone else - they could drive it for year, wreck it, and return it to you - or go to the Police and press charges for fraud against you. (not a good situation to be in). If I were you, I'd take it back to the seller - and demand my money back. If he doesn't return it in cash, in full and at once - I'd talk to a lawyer about what the next step should be. At any rate it's bag you don't want to be left holding... and one you certainly don't want to attempt to pass on to anyone else.. the personal liability is simply too great. good luck,

Well - it appears I have been scammed (or someone before me was). Although the VIN on the dash says HLS3003137, the firewall is stamped with HLS3014160. I've attached pics of both. Does the dash VIN look like a fake to you or is it more likely that it is a dash taken from another car? Obviously the jamb and engine plates were removed to perpetuate the scam.... Based on this new VIN number any idea what year and build date I have? I want to get the VIN's correct all the way around.... I feel so used

Thanks again fellas. I have attached some pictures of the engine and carbs to see what insight you may have. Regarding the hatch, there are some 1970 hatch vents on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4586351752&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1 My thought was to cut holes and attach these vents. I already have the replacement vent covers. That's probably more trouble than it's worth huh? Especially if I'm not going for a totally perfect restoration..... I think I'll also order a replacement ID plate now that I see that is an option. I looked at my firewall for a VIN and it is a bit dirty. Can you please help me get more specific regarding the location of the number? Thanks

12 Z cars - wow. What has made you get rid of them, 12 times??? I'm on my 2nd and I totalled the first 17 years ago..

Painted it? Should you be painting vinyl like that?

I'm glad you asked about build date because several things about this car perplex me. The answers are probably obvious. The idiot who last painted the car removed the door plate with build date and the serial # plate in the engine compartment (along with all of the exterior logos and painting the chrome door handles red). The only place to get the VIN is on the dash. In addition, the hatch does not have the vent holes and the defrost lines on the window are horizontal (I think they were vertical on a 1970 right?) It doesnt appear to have been in an accident but I can only conclude the hatch was a replacement. My plan is to recut holes in the existing hatch and put the grilles back over them. Would you guys cut holes or just put the grilles on? The engine serial # is L26 112926 which from what I have read is certainly not original (anyone know the definitive answer on that?) It still has the original SU's though from what a guy told me who has had a bunch of Z's. Otherwise it has the other characteristics of a 1970 - the fusecover/ashtray, center console, speedo starts at 20, temp gauge to 250 oil to 140, no holes near the small rear window for vents, little storage compartments behind the seats rather than in the rear deck...... I want to be legit when I register and I am sure the VIN is correct. Is there any way based on VIN to get the build date? Is there a database of that stuff? As far as my plans they are to restore as close to stock as my budget (and wife's patience) will allow. It will be garaged and driven maybe once a week for a couple of miles to the car show we have every Saturday in Scottsdale. For me the fun is fixing it up and making it perfect so I can see myself constantly doing that for years. If I hit the lottery I'll pay someone to do a frame off.... Any thoughts on this would help satisfy some big time curiosity I have..... Thanks as always!

Thanks for all the input guys. Since I am not going to have a frame off showcar but just want a tight, clean refreshed Z car, would one of the later radios like the one you pictured 26th-Z, fit into the slot on a 1970? It looks to have AM and FM and I assume it is stereo......? That way I still have the period look rather than a blue neon flux capacitor retratactable removable DVD flat screen stereo.

Do the full caps install easily? Is it just a matter of glue and placement? Thanks guys!

Thanks Kurt - sounds like we are both in Phoenix with 1970 240's that need some work. Are you going to the Pavilions show on Nov 12? The Desert Z Association you referred me to will be there. I live just up the street in Scottsdale

I'm not sure I can get clearance to pony up for a restore of the original or a replacement original. Maybe the more appropriate question for someone doing a 'refresh' is: what's better carpet or full dash cap? Better being defined as either what looks better or will either help/hurt collectible value?

Sorry but what is ATF?

I am looking for the brackets that hold on the front bumper. Do you have those?

Does anyone have or know where to get an original 1970 240Z radio/stereo? It's the big missing piece for my interior work

Do you have an original radio?

Thanks but I'll pass on the fugly - - - pondering a full cap. Does anyone have pix in their gallery showing a full cap and the seams?

My Z has a pretty haggard dashboard. 2 major fissures, covered with the remnants of glue that held the dash carpet on. I have since scraped off most of the glue and gotten a new carpet as an interim measure, but I want this beauty to be like new. I see all sorts of partial and full dash caps for sale. Prices arent too bad compared to finding an original one in perfect condition. The question is - - do dash caps look totally obvious? Is there a big seam at the bottom or on the sides? Would any of you consider one for a restoration project? Thanks!

Hey everyone - I am super stoked to be here. About 3 weeks ago I got a 1970 240Z after 17 years without a Z. See . . . my first car ever was a 1972 240Z. I got it when I was 16, drove it for 3 months, and totalled it. I was in the hospital for a week and had my spleen removed - nearly died. God what a crappy driver I was (and 3 beers at 16 didn't help)........ I've always wanted another one. After my recovery I had a chance to buy a perfect orange 1972 240Z with something like 60,000 original miles for real cheap and passed on it. I have dreamed of getting one all this time. I even have the original shift knob from the Z I crashed waiting to find a new home for it. Well - after bidding on countless cars on EBay and losing at the last minute to crazy bidders, I found a 1970 in Chicago online. It's VIN is HLS3003137. Although I hada 1972 I understand the 1970 is the most collectible year. It has ZERO rust and is totally straight. I now have it here in Arizona where it will stay that way. I'll put the pictures from the seller in the gallery, then take some new ones to show the progress I have already made. I've already asked you guys a few questions on the forums and thanks for the help. Can't wait to finish this awesome project and learn how to restore a car.... Derek