ddezso

Deleting duplicate post.....

Arne - how do you check that? I'm a novice.

I think I'll spend the $150 to get new needles and nozzles from ZTherapy, put those in, pull the air filter, and get retested.....I hope that does it.

Good idea. The max reading for CO idle is 5.00 and my reading was 8.30. Will any tricks move it that much?

I am trying desperatly to pass emissions and get my car titled and registered so I can drive it legally. I just brought the Z in to get tuned and the carbs balanced and synched because I knew they were running rich and I didn't want to mess with it. My mechanic told me the mixture adjustment screws are bottomed out so he can't make it run any leaner and I need at least new nozzles and needles and maybe bushings (a ZTherapy job is in my future). The state of Arizona offers a 1 year 1 time only waiver if you spend $200 or more on repairs so I went to get a waiver today. What they fail to tell you is if you fail the CO test at idle they will not give a waiver under any circumstances. God I was pissed to drive all that way and find out I need to spend $600 on new carbs at ZTherapy. Questions Are there any ways that anyone knows to lower the CO temporarily so I can get a waiver and buy some time to fix the carbs? Any way to make the emissions machine think it isnt running so rich?

Well, what did he decide to do? Is it all fixed up now?

I'm not sure $250 per set is in the cards for me any time soon considering what I have gotten away with spending so far. Let's put the safety issue aside for a second. Have any of you cleaned up and dyed the straps black? Any tips on that? I am assuming a powder coat on the buckles is the only way to get the black to stay put and look fresh? In other words, is there any paint that won't immediately chip off and look worse?

They don't post prices. Any idea what they charge?

Good ideas. Does anyone know if these early Z buckles had any sort of stickers on them or were they just black? Was it a flat or glossy black? Both of the original belt tags are totally trashed also. I think I saw a thread somewhere about replacements. Is anyone making replacements?

I spent $980 yesterday on repairs at Spanky's and my lovely wife only asked if it was more than the $500 I had predicted then said I didnt have to tell her how much it cost. And guess what - I didnt...... I think this means I am pretty lucky. . . . .

Check out the pictures of my series 1 seat belt buckles. As you can see they are quite worn. Luckily they function properly but I thought it might be fun to make them look better. First - does anyone have pix of what a new one looks like and second - any tips on how to repaint or refinish? I've searched for threads and didnt see anything out there. Thanks....

I'd be guessing so I'll leave it to an expert.......But I might as well wager a guess - - - 1972 to 1974...Let's see if I was right

The destination. My obsessive personality has caused me to put all of my time and effort into fixing up and replacing stuff so quickly that I am running out of stuff to do. I guess it's a good problem to have but for me, when all that is left is to drive it and enjoy it, half the fun is gone. That must be how people keep buying new ones to fix up........ Then again - I suspect this is the path into even deeper obsession with every detail and nuance of perfection. It gets worse when you start going to car shows and seeing people with frame off restorations that cost $30,000. That really makes you want to polish and replace every screw and wire..... Anyway......my .02

I've never seen all model years lined up in one place. You can see pictures in VB and MSA catalogs of some years. I just went out and took a pic of my 1970 console. It's not totally finished yet but you can get the idea... Looking at it I just realized I tracked some crap onto my new carpets...better go clean that up!

I'll take a stand on this one. Original is better. Enjoy the beauty as it was intended. . . . ..

Most definately. . . .. I cant wait till I get it titled and registered properly so I can drive without worry of a big ticket....Still have to fail emissions and get a waiver to get the registration finally... Then all I have to worry about is drving!

Well, here is the beautiful result. Also got new rotors and front brakes (they were shot), carbs balanced and synched, thermo housing replaced (after the broken bolt debacle), new bumper rubber, chrome door handles installed, tuned... It runs like a dream and looks pretty good too. 1970 radio coming Friday and I am darn near done with the refresh (and about out of $$$$ to spend on it for now)...

I just decided to pay the money and have the holes drilled like factory original. I get to see it at 4:00 today with all the new work done and looking beautiful.....I'll share pix.

If you dont want to do it yourself and drill holes in your car (if they have been filled and painted over) it's potentially easier, less expensive, and looks the same to use the tape. I am a wee bit scared to take the drill to my car body and risk screwing it up having never done it. At least with tape it's less risky....... In a perfect world they are done like the factory. Does that answer your questions?

Hey Duffman - where did you take it? Gary at Spanky's in Mesa has mine for the next few days. He does a great job. Do you have any freakin pictures yet? I want to see this thing. All of the Z club was at the Pavilions again last Saturday so we won't be there for about a month now. I hope to see your ride in January. It's not too far from you and a fun time. I dont really fit in with the ZClub gang but it's cool to have all of the Z's out at the same time......

I have looked and the underhood holes on the hood. are not visible. I pulled the trip piece off the inside of the hatch and you can see the bondo there. Not so easy to get to on the pillars and the side emblems. I think I'll just have my Z guy do it since he has my car for the next 3 days anyway.

Hey guys - another question (or a bunch of em). I am taking my Z in today for a some work. One thing I wanted help with was properly mounting all 9 emblems. I was asking my Z guy to drill the holes (they were filled when it was painted last) and use the tabs to properly mount the emblems to the body. He suggested that he could certainly do that and it would take some costly time, or I can just cut off the emblem tabs and use double sided tape to adhere the emblems. I have certainly heard of that method before but wanted to get your feedback. Is the double sided tape method professional looking and worthy of a fine Z car? Do taped on emblems live through water and car washing? If the answer to these is yes - what kind of tape specifically do you use? Finally - how do you know exactly where to place the emblems? I'm sure I can 'eyeball' it fairly close but I wonder if anyone has measurements out there? For example, it's easy to measure centering the hood emblem but now far up from the tip of the hood front center is the center of the round emblem. Any thoughts? Thanks as always.....

Well here is the final outcome (which is different from what they told me last week). The state of AZ removed the dash VIN (HLS3003137) and kept it. They then told me since the firewall VIN can't be matched to the engine serial # they had to issue a State VIN #. They took a metal looking blue tag and adhered it to the door jamb and the title will reflect the new #. So I am curious - the car is a beauty, the firewall VIN is clearly HLS3014160, it is straight and almost refreshed nicely. How much do you think the value is impacted as a result of a state issued VIN? Would you pay less for this car even though I can prove the build date? Thanks...

I'll send mine to Enrique. If he can fix it and send it back to me, great - if mine can't be fixed but can enable yours to work that's fine too. Sound good? If so Enrique - send me a PM with your address. Thanks, Derek

You will get the sell price. Order from their website and when you enter the part # it will show the price. You can confirm it that way too.