Pir0San

The second one has been on Craigslist for some time. He's jumped around on the price, but no bidders. Kind of gives me a bad feeling...

oh, good point. the last time I tried the top gear tire trick was when I was working on a mustang with a posi rear end.

drop your oil pump, and shine a flashlight up into the timing cover, and see if the tensioner has popped out. Unless you wedge it just right, it will pop right out. Sometimes if you are lucky, you can push the tensioner back in with a long screwdriver via the oil pump hole. Good luck!

I agree with everyone above, you are doing a great service. Look at the transaction that one of our members here (Mull) did when buying a car from ebay. From what I gathered from his videos (and Mull, if I'm wrong, please correct me ) he bought the car sight unseen, and we've all seen the door hinge frame rail fix. I'd want you to chime in if I bought a car that I had the inability to see for myself, and it was in reality a total rustbucket.

The crossmember was replaced about 3 years ago. I haven't had a chance to crawl under the car and check out bushings or whatnot, so I'll have to check it the next time I get a day off.

My steering wheel will shimmy around 45 mph, which causes the whole front end to shake. I had an alignment done a while ago when my dad bent my engine crossmember, and the mechanic who did the alignment said I needed to replace either the tie rod ends or the ball joints to remove the shake, but I can't remember which one it is. I did a search, and found some people had the same problem, and new ball joints fixed the issue. If I replace the ball joints, will I need to have the front end realigned? Thanks!

What is the part number on the gasket/box it came in? I know that some parts stores have L28 gaskets mixed up with other L-series head gaskets.

I can't remember where I read it, but some guy recieved spam mail from a credit card company, took the postage paid envelope, stuffed a miscellaneous amount of pennies - 32 cents or so - in the envelope, and mailed it back to the sender. When the credit card company recieved the letter, he called them back, and demanded his 32 cents back. Needless to say, he recieved a check for 32 cents.

man, this sucks!!! I've been able to watch almost every other scca runoff, and I have to miss the one I wanted to watch for work!!! I'm calling in sick! Really though, if anyone has a dvd recorder and is planning on recording it, make me a copy please? I'll buy you a pack of dvd-r's!

another idea: jack the rear end up, and put the car in 4th gear (or 5th if you have a 5 speed) and spin the passenger side rear tire. This will help spin the engine over.

an insane amount of people have complained about the same problem with the Pertronix kit and the stock tach. I switched to pertronix myself, and I have never had a problem with the tach not working/reading correctly. Check out the pertronix article on www.zhome.com for correct wiring.

I've done it as well, one of my hoses cracked, and it needed to be replaced. Do you still have your glove box liner intact? If you do not, then taking out the blower will be a pretty easy job, and make the install easier. There are four bolts holding the blower onto the firewall (if I remember correctly, I could be wrong), and the top ones are easy to get to w/o a glove box liner. Good luck.

How else does he deliver presents to children all over the world in only ONE night? It's Nissan power, baby.

people choose to put the LD28 crank in the later 280Z blocks because of the siamesed cylinder walls, which have better cooling passages, if I remember correctly. I believe the block code was f54. Here's a good site on what to look for when building a 3.1 stroker: click here.

The lobes rarely ever get worn that bad, in my experiences. You can take your valve cover off and inspect it yourself, to rule that problem out.

higher pressure fuel pump?

my carbs did the same thing, until I used a rebuild kit and adjusted the mixture. She needs the choke to warm up, but once it gets there, she runs great from then on.

I thought of the throw out bearing, but the noise seems to go away when the pedal is pushed in. It only happens when the clutch is engaged. Thanks though!

So I've been driving my Z lately, and I noticed about a week ago, a weird noise was coming from where I had originally thought was the fan blower motor. It sounded like a leaf had fallen into the air vent, and worked its way to the squirrel cage, and was spinning along with the cage. The noise would come and go, so I didn't worry too much about it. Today I drove it down the road, and the noise got even louder, and seemed to only happen when the transmission was in gear. If I was at a stop, and revved the engine, no noise. But as soon as I engaged the clutch and the driveline began to spin, the noise would be evident. It seems to vary with engine rpm (but noise is not coming from the engine from what I hear) and sometimes goes away for no good reason. I haven't had a chance to take a look at it, since it's dark and all right now, but I did crawl under it for a few seconds, and it seemed like the transmission was leaking fluid from the rear output shaft seal since it was flung all around on the bottom of the car. Tomorrow (as long as it doesn't rain) I was planning on checking my u-joints, and draining my tranny fluid to see if there were any metallic shavings in it, and refill it to see if that was the issue. I'm also probably going to get a rear output shaft seal, if the auto parts store carries those as well. The noise seems to be coming from the passenger side of the transmission tunnel, and now sounds like a metallic scraping. I'm not sure exactly how to describe it, but imagine what a leaf in the squirrel cage sounds like, but then turn that into a metallic noise. If it's the transmission, I have a couple spares that I can try. I just don't want to do a tranny swap to find out the problem is even easier than I had thought.

I like your sketches! The DB9 front end would look unique on the Zcar, but I'm not sure if I'd like it until I see a photoshop of it done,

the sloppiness is due to bad bushings in the shifter if I remember correctly, and there are occasionally brass bushing replacements floating around in cyberspace. I have the type A in my Z, and the shifter has brass bushings, and there is no more sloppiness than the type b had before I shattered it.

that's a gnose front end, there was one on the california craigslist not too long ago. I know there is a company that just bought molds to make the gnose, so maybe someone else will chime in with their name.

aren't the later Z alternators internally regulated?

I've had my Z for 4 years, and it hasn't been driven extensively in about 2. It was down for a year, then back up, but burns oil badly, so I can't drive it too much, but it's fun to take her out for a spirited run. Before my dad gave her to me, he bought her back around 96-98, so I'm estimating about 8-9 years in my family overall.

oops, I don't know what I was thinking.