Pir0San

ok, I'm wiring diagram retarded ... I found that the stereo uses three wires, blue for the fusible link (meaning power from the battery/fusebox), red/blue for something (I have no idea what it's for), and the antenna. What's the red/blue wire for, and is the fusible link the direct battery hookup?

My Z was broken into about two months ago, and the thieves stole my Pioneer head unit, and cut my wiring harness. I am finally getting tired of not having a radio, and I was going to install a tape deck/radio I have laying around for the time being. The only problem is that I am unsure which wire to use to run the direct battery power (usually yellow coming off of the deck, obviously something else on the Z's wiring harness) and the ignition power wire for the deck (which I think I know where it is already. If anyone can help, it's definitely appreciated!

has anyone tried the oil pressure sending unit that kragen sells? They look the exact same as the one that's on there right now, so I would imagine they should work. I'd rather buy it for $20 from my local kragen than buy it from MSA or BDA and wait a week to recieve it.

looks like they did a patch job on you. I know when I talked to Al (urgelis), he said that his friend owned the machine shop, and he did all of the selling work, and his friend did the machine work. Did you talk to him, by chance? I was thinking of getting another head for a friend's engine through him, but now I may not. Good luck selling the head, hopefully someone finds a use for it.

hmmm, I can see what you are saying about urgelis. My head did come with shimmed cam towers, but everything looked great. I bolted it on, and the car runs like new with the new head, now I just have to rebuild my lower end, since my fourth cylinder has a bad oil control ring. See pics of the head here: I'll keep my eyes open though.

In urgelis' defense, I bought an e88 head from him, and he was extremely helpful, and stayed in contact with me all throughout the sale. He even went and sourced another head for me. He helped me throughout, and I'd recommend buying from him myself.

want a hint as to how to get it off easier? Well, get a power drill, and put an adaptor in it for a 10mm socket. Then that will zip all of the bolts out fast, I can do it in under 3 minutes now with the drill, and then finish up with a ratchet. The pan will come right off of the engine, you just have to angle the pan right to clear the transmission bellhousing and engine crossmember. While you're at it, clean the crap off of your oil sump filter.

I was just kidding, I might have found a better source for parts.

hmmm...want to go choose me some Z parts when I need to get them, and make some commission?

well, since it's an S30, you should be able to remove the oil pan. You might want to drain all of the oil, remove the pan, clean it out with some degreaser, and put it back up with a new gasket.

yeah, I see what you are saying. I just don't want to buy a part from danny and end up finding out the hood has six inches of bondo on or something like that. I'm not saying he'd do that, but I tend to be a bit weary when dealing with body parts I cannot physically see. Maybe I'll take Mat up on his offer for one of his hoods.

thanks for the responce Arne. When you saw the parts that he had, are they all in rough shape, or in good enough shape to be prepped and thrown on? I'm probably going to try to do all of the prep work I can to the parts, that way I can spend more on the paint and less on the prep work. What about Z Barn? They have good prices as far as I can tell, and I like their A-C rating system. I just want to get the best value for my cash, so I can do the most work to the Z as possible. If I can, I want to strip the whole car down, prep it for paint (pound out dents, cut rust areas out (which aren't that bad, replace with fresh metal, primer) and then have it painted. Is a good paint job plausible with $2k?

hey all, the insurance agency told me that I'm looking at around $3327 as a cash out to get the car fixed. They got the quote by contacting Danny's Datsuns, and aquiring other parts from various other sources. My dad is going to be talking to them, showing them all of the reciepts for the things I've done to the car (new cylinder head, new radiator, clutch assembly, transmission, clutch slave/master cylinder, etc) to see if he can get them to rate it higher. So, here's my question: does anyone know of a good body shop in Sacramento that does excellent quality work for a reasonable price? I just want to get the parts painted and they may also need to adjust body gaps and such. Also, are the parts from Danny's Datsuns in good condition? I don't want them to send me a hood and have the hood be dented or covered in bondo. I'd like to get some parts that are in great condition, that just need a little bit of paint stripping, and a repaint. Any suggestions?

has anyone ever used any of the interior reproduction pieces that too intense restoration sells? I was looking at their carpet kits, seat re-upholstery kits, and sunvisor kit. I really like the original design of the interior pieces, and want an exact reproduction. Also, I noticed that TIR only has the full black door skins, and I have black interior with grey diamond vinyl, so I need to get the door skins that are grey in the middle and have black as trim. Anyone know where to get reproduction diamond vinyl as well?

the carburetors are Hitachi SU's. They are a skinner's union design, made by hitachi. Try www.ZTherapy.com for needles, and check out the Hitachi SU tech pages for other SU information: http://www.jetlink.net/~okayfine/sutech.html

I know Autozone, Kragen's, and maybe pep boys can test alternators. Usually a high pitched squeal is due to a loose belt. I tighten my belt by putting leverage against the alternator and front cover (not too much, just enough to snug it), and tighten it. Keeps it nice and tight.

this happened to my Z when I replaced my master and slave cylinders. The rods on both cylinders were too short (the new ones), so all I did was replace them with the old ones...problem solved.

check your fuse boxes, my headlights were doing the same thing yours were, I bought new fuses, and the problem went away instantly!

ah, thanks for the clarification

Tow hooks are bolt on items.

skyline? (r32)? wait, nm, it'd have a 17 digit vin, since it's an 89.

oh, okay. I was just looking at it and wondering...'why does he have 2 brake lights on one side and only one on the other? Styling mod?'

Mat, I kind of doubt he'll need to see it anyways, but I appreciate the offer nonetheless! I'll just show him that Z on ebay that's going for $9k.

netpreference, is it just me, or are all of your lights different colors? I see green, red, and clear.

The inspector from Farmer's came by today, and I went outside and bs'ed with him. He seems like a cool guy, he's been inspecting cars for 20 years, and his friend in college had a 260Z, so he understands the value and rarity of a good Z car. He said he'd try to keep it from being totaled, and that we'd work something out if need be. Mat, I did tell him about having friends in the Z community that have cars he can take a look at (like yours) and he said he might need to if the situation permits.