Duffman

I have reached the point of not giving my Z the attention it deserves, so putting it on the market after almost 20 years. It is an early Series 1, vin #1399, and a January 1970 build. It runs exceptionally well, and nothing needs to be done to turn the key and enjoy the open road! Much love, time and money have been invested in this beauty, so the next owner will have the benefit of a fine touring machine! Please look at my classified ad for pics and an overview. I have more details and pics upon request. I want to take this time to thank the many individuals on this site who provided their expertise, judgement and ideas to helping me fix, improve and upgrade my Z. There are so many existing and former members who have inspired me over the last 20 years to make my car the best, and it is most appreciated! Members like Arne, Captain Obvious, Chickenman, 240260280 (Phil), Mark Maras, Zsondabrain, and so many more that I am forgetting or missing. Please understand I appreciate all of you for your help and patience as well! I will continue to visit this site and hope that all of you continue to enjoy the journey with your Z, whether on the road or in your garage! Happy trails!

Supposedly, the N36 intake has up to 10% more air flow than the E46 intake (can measure the opening to the carbs and see the difference). Like CO says, not sure how much upside there is to using them, but I have read the same positive take on using them. I have the N36 on my Z.

What would be the difference or downside to using a smoke machine in the car and force air into car and see where the smoke leaks out? That is what I did. I put the smoke machine in the back of my Z, cut a piece of cardboard with a hole for the vacuum (on blower mode) and turned the vacuum/blower on to see where the smoke came out.

Cool, appreciate the pics, interesting project! I always left this in Ztherapy's hands!

Q, thanks for your input, is appreciated. The bulb is a challenge to get to and difficult to check for power without removing the tach or the speedo. I can get one hand up there to find the bulb. I am sure it is the right socket/bulb for the bright switch, because the other bulb up there turns on when the lights come on. I know it is a minor problem but hate to accidently have brights on with oncoming traffic! Will try to pull the tach this week and see if I can check power to the socket.

Wilkes, I have not touched the wiring to this particular bulb, so don't think it is a problem. Looking to attack this problem this next week, will report back!

Yarb, I have a Series 1, have manufacture date in my signature. SteveJ, thank you for your thoughts, I will check those areas of potential concern. The headlights work fine and do switch properly between high and low beam. No electrical doctoring or mods done on wiring. Like your idea of getting to back of the back of speedo by removing the tach, may be a challenge either way as the dash has been recovered and everything is a tight fit. As everything else works, still think it is a fitment issue with bulb and socket but will let you know (will doublecheck the fuse!)! Appreciate the response!

I have switched all of my dash lights to LED with success, with everything working correctly, but the bright light symbol does not light up. I have switched the bulbs between LED and incandescent and it still does not light up. I probably need to check and see if I have a ground issue, though it is difficult to reach behind the dash. Other than a ground or power issue, could there be an issue with the turn signal switch that is impacting that particular light? Appreciate your assistance!

I had the same issues as CO, multiple adjustments and still too low until I reach a point where it overflows!

Adding my 2 cents, I believe that CO created a great solution for the wayward float! The "bloat" works great on my setup, and I have no calibration issues like you are running into, Madkaw. I highly recommend the concept! Bruce, I like the new screw idea!

Good idea, Patcon, will look into providing that solution!

Thanks, Patcon and Mark, I agree that anything I do will not permanently impact the hatch, it is just a means of plugging the openings so no water can leak into hatch. Wondering if some thick rubber plugs, cut to fill the openings, would be an option?

Thanks for the response, 26th Z, but I have already closed up the inside hatch panel with a solid piece with a sealed liner. The outside metal-looking hatch vents I have, but the plastic pieces that go inside the hatch for drainage are not so easy to find or are just expensive. Hence, the thought is to just block the openings under the outside vents.

My early Z has the hatch vents, like this pic. I have some of the pieces to replace the plastic parts in the hatch to drain the water out but not all of them. To find replacements would be pricey. I am trying to figure how to block the hole under the vents, so the look remains but no air or water will get into the hatch. Here is the pic of hatch with the vent and one without. Any ideas out there?

Could add the headlight covers on the buckets for a more aerodynamic look ...

CO was kind enough to send me a trial set of "bloats" to test on my Z. I have a 2.8L engine rebuilt with flat top pistons, standard cam, N42 head and block, 6 in 1 header, short ear fuel bowl lids on both front and back SUs, etc. I have some experience playing around with SUs and Webers, so this was fun for me! My standard floats weigh around .4 oz, and CO sent me a set weighing .7 oz. My initial efforts to get the fuel level set, using my set of FloatSyncs, proved to be most difficult, and after multiple failed attempts, went back to CO to discuss options. He thought going to a lower add on weight might prove to be a solution. So, he redrilled the "bloats", took out the heavier weight, and added a lighter aluminum plug. The weight of the mini "bloats" was .5 oz (25% more than my standard float). This proved to be a much better solution, as I was able to quickly dial in the appropriate fuel levels in each carb, while having the tabs of each mini "bloat" set at a level where I don't have to worry about the float hitting the side of the fuel bowl to reach a full level. I will leave it to the industrious Captain Obvious on how he created the mini "bloats", but I believe it is a great solution for those with a similar problem!! Thanks, Bruce! Now, on to finding the perfect SU needle for my Z ...

Great idea, CO!

Got it, thx!

240260280, is your jet alignment tool primarily for the 4 screw dome carbs, or for either the 3 screw of 4 screw? I can see how it would adjust the nozzle in the 4 screw carb to sit in the appropriate position. I am trying to understand how it would benefit for the 3 screw, as you would have to take the dome and piston out to put the needle in, which would undo your adjustments.

CO, I would be more than happy to test your new “bloats”, but I need the temps to drop below the 117 it is today!! Let me know if you want to send my way.

I appreciate Namerow’s thoughtful analysis, many things to consider in the workings of this “simple” system! CO, your points are spot on, in regards to the reality of floats that have to be raised to their max level, or beyond. I have run into issues with both the float hitting the side and the tang/needle misalignment causing problems. Looking forward to some live on the road testing to validate the float weight gain!

Will be interested to see how they work in running car, though should be great. I will use my Float Sync tool to see how level adjusts in running car. Good job!!

Look forward to your results!

Interesting stuff, CO, I am looking forward to your final results on the weighted floats. I have bought, fixed up and sold 12 to 15 sets of SUs over the years, always testing on my own car for appropriate fuel levels, performance, etc. I needed to bend the float further than what directions said but still within range, and no floats hitting side of float bowl. On my own set of SUs, I am having similar challenges to you, with my front carb needing to be severely tilted up to allow appropriate level of fuel in the bowl. I run same level of fuel in each bowl, no difference in front and back levels. I think it sometimes sticks on side of front bowl and fuel overflows. Your solution may be a great answer for this! Good luck!

I was thinking the same thing; maybe having the short ear version of the fuel bowl lid on the front carb would help get the desired fuel level. But, you are saying that won't make a difference, right?