Duffman

Was thinking same thing as Patcon; a possible air leak in the one carb, spray around intake, etc, with carb cleaner and see if the idle changes. Also, looking at the pic, it doesn't look like the fuel hose between the float bowl and carb is long enough to provide smooth up and down motion of the nozzle (might be the angle of the pic).

Jeff, look forward to meeting you when you arrive in to the Valley of the Sun!

I have run them in my L28 240Z, great AFRs on acceleration but a little rich on cruise (for me). Randalla uses them on his L28 Z, is very happy with them. I ended up going with the TF needles; leaner at cruise, still strong at WOT.

Wow, that is Gunther Toody (Joe E Ross) from "Car 54 Where Are You?"!! He and Fred McGynne (Herman Munster on The Munsters) were police partners on that show! Okay, I digress ...

Jim (zKars), I etched a slight groove around the Float-sync at 14 mm above each block with a mini tube cutter, works great!

These are crazy times ... IMG_0464.mov

Philip, trying to see how the fuel rail connects to each carb. I see the runners to each carb, but where are they specifically hooking up? Am not as knowledgeable about Mikunis versus Webers. Thanks!

Looks decent, but not sure if it beats TWM intake ($429) at Pierce Manifolds (and other locations).

https://vintagetechnologygarage.groups.io/g/sidedraft

Zedyone, any update on your problem resolution? I just bought the TWM (2 post) triple intake manifold to replace my Cannon. Have had similar issues with idle return, am hoping this helps. Interested to hear if you had a solution for your setup.

I read somewhere on this site that each tooth, addition or subtraction, equates to a 5% change in mph reading, all things being equal.

Wow, Philip, glad all is well! Can't say you don't give your all to the cause!

I have stuck with the Cannon intake, so far, and have switched from the standard shepard's hook setup to the Lokar cable arrangement. The linkage is so much better, but I still battle a sticking idle issue. I have gone from the standard 3 terminal rod holder arrangement and downsized to a 2 terminal approach (see pics). I have made sure that each carb closes independently and smoothly, and have installed the stronger throttle plate return springs in each carb. I tried going to a 3/8" throttle rod (from standard 5/16"), but had sticking issues on the linkage rod end bearings, so went back to the smaller rod, but with a shorter length (ok, I hear the jokes coming ...). You can see the arrangement in the pics. Bottom line, still having idle sticking issues. Should I try to have the linkage to each carb attach on the same side, would that make any difference? Any other thoughts and suggestions? Love the Lokar cable solution, much better than the shepard's hook setup!!

You might have a washer that is not the right size that may be impeding your ability to raise the nozzle so it lies flat to the bridge. Check the lineup of nut, spring, washer, etc, on each side to make sure they are both the same.

Granny, that option may be illegal in some states due to the brevity of parts!! ? As for the shiny Euro option, I agree with Fernando (of old SNL fame), who said (with heavy Spanish accent) that "it is better to look good, than to feel good". I took that to mean make it shiny and dazzling, even if it runs like s@%t!! Ha, ha! And, Randalla, those wingnuts are lined up, just the camera angle ... ?

Ok, Site, if we are going the self-gratifying route (?), here is another option; just go the Euro balance tube route, get rid of everything else!

Bob, wow, nice cars! I see you are in the Phx area, where are the cars located?

Ha, you are just using this opportunity to show off your beautiful carb and intake setup ... ?

Any thoughts on how this study applies to rebuilt engines? Is this study just pertinent to older, non-rebuilt engines? Just wondering ...

Rio24, after viewing your video, I don't think the issue is the rod linkage. It looks like you might have an issue with your middle carb throttle plate sticking open, as you are not connected to anything and the sticking is occurring. I would take the carb off and look at the back side to see if the plate sticks open on its own. I have had to replace a throttle plate before because it was not flat and it kept sticking. Not sure if that is your issue, but the video looks like it might be.

Rio24, I just purchased some of those parts; the 16"-3/8" rod, 2-3/8" female rod ends, 2-3/8" end links, and 2 male adapters to secure the 3/8" rod ends to the smaller openings on the Cannon intake. The kit has some redundant pieces that I don't need. My issue is the 5/16" rod having binding issues with the 3 rod end set up (trouble getting the 3 rod ends to align correctly), which seems to be a common issue with the Cannon intake manifold. Rather than upgrade to a different intake, I am going to beef up the 5/16" rod to a 3/8" rod, and reduce the 3 rod ends to just 2, thus making the linkage smoother and reduce the binding problem.

That is why $80 to fix the linkage is a better option to begin with, Zed Head, I agree it doesn't make sense to throw big money at it, if you don't have to!

The total from Pierce Manifold for the 16" x 3/8" rod, 2 - 3/8" rod ends, adapters for the Cannon intake and 2 - 3/8" end links to hold the rod in place amount to about $80. Pretty cheap alternative to a new intake (at least to start!)

Rio24, I have been told that the 5/16" rod that comes with the intake is not as good as the 3/8" stainless steel rod that Pierce Manifold sells. You may have removed the center post, but still used the smaller (thinner) rod and that doesn't work as well, am told. I am also getting sticking even with the cable linkage.

Same issue on my triples with Cannon intake; was getting stuck idle no matter what I did! After some reading, and discussion with Mike at Pierce Manifolds, I am a believer that the 3 post/rod ends are causing binding that will not be easily resolved. Essentially, it is very difficult to get all three "holes" to line up perfectly for the rod, thus causing a bind. I am going to try removing the center rod post (run on 2 rod ends, not 3), increase the rod and rod ends to 3/8" and see if the linkage will be much smoother. Otherwise, will move on to another intake manifold, if necessary.