Duffman

Hey, Mark, see my response on your ad page in regards to Paypal not reflecting the $5 shipping charge. Stephen

26th-Z, just sent an e-mail to Datsun Spirit to see if they can access a new piece, thanks!

Thanks, guys, I will check the fusible link (haven't done that yet) and will check the alternator and VR after that. As I said, everything works fine except for the oil and ammeter gauges being non-functional. The battery seems fine; checked the level and is holding over 13 to 14 volts, even with stress. Jim, I upgraded to an internally regulated alternator to add some additional "accessories" to my vehicle down the road; A/C, stereo, etc. Seems the right thing to do, IF you hook everything up correctly, which I am thinking I will find I haven't due to my current situation. Keep your fingers crossed! Will let you know what I come up with! Stephen

Thanks, Mike, will look into it!

Tom, there is no doubt my first desire is to save the window. I will research further and see if I can find someone who can at least improve it so it is less noticeable. Thanks, Stephen

Arne and Enrique, I have connected the "spare" wire up to the adaptor and took the car for a drive to see if the ammeter is working. Unfortunately, it is not (no gauge movement when putting electrical stress on the system) . Both my ammeter and oil pressure gauge are not working, as before. Could not having the "spare" wire connected to the adaptor, as it should have been, have caused any problems with my internal regulator in my alternator? Could it have caused something else to "short" out or get screwed up? Thanks, Stephen

It is as if someone took a grinder and touched it on the glass, leaving gouge marks that are pretty deep. I had a glass "professional" look at it and he said there was not anything they could do. It is noticeable upon close inspection and looking through my rear view mirror.

My early series 1 Z has the clear hatch glass (no heater lines) which I would just as soon keep. However, it has grind marks in the glass that cannot be removed and it doesn't look very good upon close inspection:disappoin . I can get later model glass without too much problem but not the early glass. I was thinking of keeping the glass and maybe covering it up with louvres, or I can replace with the later model glass with the heater lines. Any general thoughts? Thanks, Stephen

Thanks, Enrique, my sender is new and has been confirmed to work. The wiring to the sender was grounded and the gauge didn't read anything differently. I also hooked up a spare oil pressure gauge at the dash and I still received no reading, then grounded the wire again and still the gauge didn't register anything. Arne and I were thinking it was the wiring, though the gauge worked before I updated my alternator and put in the adaptor. It is bizarre! I do appreciate the info on the ammeter, I will reconnect the wire and hope it works. Any other thoughts on the oil pressure issue is appreciated! Thanks, Stephen

After looking at it, was thinking the same thing. Hope something this simple will correct my gauge problem, will let you know! Thanks again! Stephen

Arne, it definitely looks like this wire needs to be connected to the adaptor, based on what connections your adaptor has. Am hoping the picture I sent prior will provide some insight for you. Stephen

Arne, I see a lot of yellow on the wires after cleaning them up. Here are some pics showing color and location on the adaptor. Looked at the wires and found it difficult to see actual colors. Stephen

Fuel and temperature gauges do work, so I am batting .500 on gauges!!

Mike, I just checked my amp meter and it does not seem to be doing anything when I turn on the lights, etc. Not sure how I missed this but haven't been paying much attention to it since it was on a different gauge! What is thwe next step if both the oil pressure and the amp gauge don't work? Thanks, Stephen

I am having problems with my oil gauge not registering, which most likely is a bad connection somewhere. But wanted to confirm I didn't screw up my alternator upgrade and adaptor connections, as my oil gauge worked before I hooked them up, though they shouldn't have anything in common. Will accept any criticism for my own dumbassery if I connected them wrong!:cross-eye Arne, please confirm that I should have a spare wire on the adaptor unattached. Thanks!!

A7DZ, assuming that ZX rear brakes are drums as well? Just easier to access parts?

Thanks, Carl, I realized after I responded that there is nothing left to do but hook it up! I am slightly post-50 and I like the idea of comfortable seating!!

Carl, great piece on seat alternatives, did you finish the article on fitting the Acura Integra seat? Looks like it stopped at fitting the strap metal to the bottom of the seat.

I know Nissan does not make the O ring/gasket for the speedo fitting into the tranny anymore (I have been told), so is there anything else available that you have used that would work?

Garry and Danny at Spanky's Auto in Mesa, AZ, are regionally known for auto body work and mechanical repair. Have used them, great guys!

I have a switch in my glove box for the electric antenna.

Thanks, Gary, for reopening this thread and thanks, Carl, for the directions!!

Carl, point taken, either go original or do what works best for me. Guess I will look at replacing the glass and hookup the defrost, though not much need in AZ!

Anyone have experience buying a new piece of glass from a glass company to replace? Am assuming very difficult to get someone to cut the unique shape, but it may be an option.

Thanks, Kelly and Arne, will look into getting a more recent piece of glass and remove the defrost grid. Living in AZ. I plan on tinting anyway, so that is no problem. Stephen