Duffman

Blue, this is great stuff, as noted above, but some of your gifs have been lost: FYI here is data from my friend showing the AF ratio and proving a leaking accelerator circuit. (plugged vs non-plugged during slow accelerations (2 min.) to prevent activating the accelerator circuit). This test was repeated 3 times. The red numbers show the change in Air:Fuel Ratio at each corresponding RPM. Here is where I think the vacuum pulls on the accelerator nozzle and causes the greatest fuel leak at cruise: Would you be able to provide those? I am new to Webers and interested in the leaking/dripping issue you mentioned above, would love to see the test results! Thanks!

Have you looked at VTO wheels? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Sorry, didn't complete my thought! The reason my wires fried in the first place wasn't my line coming loose, it was a bad replacement alternator. I rewired around my alternator adapter plug and wired directly, following the instructions by woodworkerb.com. Everything works as it should! Sent from my HP Slate 7 Plus using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Issue resolved, my new replacement alternator was bad, with 12v line going into the T fitting grounding out in the internal VR. Replaced my replacement and now all is good! Sent from my HP Slate 7 Plus using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Anyone know which 2 wires are jumped in the alternator adapter that Dave makes? Sent from my HP Slate 7 Plus using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Am wondering if cutting off the wires to the plug defeats the purpose of the jumper wire as well as the diode, which would still create ignition on with key in off position? It was melted together, had to pry apart, which destroyed plug to adapter as well as adapter. Without jumper in place, irregardless of diode not in place, could I still have some issue? Need to buy new adaptor anyway, so will find out. Sent from my HP Slate 7 Plus using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Bummer, cut off plug to adapter, as it was stuck, did not make any difference with how car still shows power on. When I put key in ignition and just turn it slight, car tries to start before I get it to On position. Sent from my HP Slate 7 Plus using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Thanks, Zed Head, will give it a try. Yes, I have one of Dave's adapters, well worth the money!

Hi, I have fried out some wiring on my 70 240Z when my line from my starter solenoid became unattached from my alternator while I was driving my car. I burned up 6 wires in the engine bay, that I could see, and now when I turn my engine off, the car tries to start or run on as if it is still getting constant power through the ignition. The emergency brake light is on in my gauge, as if ignition is still on, when the key is turned off. I have replaced the burned wires in engine bay, had my alternator tested, replaced my ignition switch, replaced my starter relay, and I still have "run on" with the key turned off. I am looking at everything I can to find the fault. One area I was not sure about was the alternator diode plug, which I use for my internally regulated 60 amp alternator. If I fried it and it is unable to work correctly, would that cause my symptoms? I am not sure exactly how it works, so I may be grasping at straws, but thought it was worth asking to check it off the list. Any other areas I should check, please let me know. Thanks, Duffman

Don't think there is room behind the OEM air cleaner, might work with the tuna cans. Sent from my HP Slate 7 Plus using Classic Zcar Club mobile app

Randalla has provided me a set to try out, works great! You can calculate the 23 mm down from lid as being the same as 14 mm up from the base of the tube. As Randalla states, you can adjust both carbs at same time, very convenient! Sent from my HP Slate 7 Plus using Classic Zcar Club mobile app

Or floats are stuck in float bowl Sent from my HP Slate 7 Plus using Classic Zcar Club mobile app

Another view ...

HazMatt, gave your idea a try, looks much better than the rubber trim! Will work on a tighter fit next, but love the look!

Don't mean to highjack, but is that an aftermarket shroud on your radiator fan, Siteunseen?

Like what you did on the headlight covers, never thought of that! Sent from my HP Slate 7 Plus using Classic Zcar Club mobile app

Well, back at it again! Looking for another one of these, any ideas where I can source one? Thanks, Stephen

Have used lawnmower cable, works well.

It does make one all warm and fuzzy looking at their work of art ...

I am looking to find a better option to my rigid center vent in my Z to better direct air from AC towards the driver. Has anyone come up with a newer modified option that fits in the center vent area but allows you to direct the air any direction? I am assuming that you could replace the rigid (directionally set) vent with something from another vehicle that fits in there and can be pointed towards driver and/or passenger. Any ideas?

djwarner, I like what you did to make use of the fresh air option. The way you set it up, when you put it on recycled air, is the air flow blocked much? I have the Hot Rod Air option, which is identical to Vintage Air, and am looking to reinstall and make use of the fresh air option.

I can sense an Xmas gift to me from me ... !!!

Thanks, Jim, appreciate it!

Are these still available anywhere? I have the 240Z version, which is great, but my windshield will need replaced sometime soon, so looking for a replacement. Any ideas?

Sakura Garage near the 101 and 202 in Tempe, has great experience with Zs and other Datsuns. Chuck Sheen and his son Greg run it and though they focus more on body work and paint, they know Zs well enough to work on many other areas as well. Contact info: Sakura Garage 1985 E 5th Street #18 Tempe, Az 85281 602-329-7979 info@sakuragarage.com