Duffman

Thanks, Mike.

Mike, how do you evaluate platability? If there are chrome flecks or peeling, is that a no go? Would like to do my heater panel in chrome, but not sure the quality is good enough. Thanks!

I have seen mainly metal crush washers on both sides of bolt but other fuel resistant washers as well, most leaks are due to bolt not being tight enough with washers.

Sounds like the float is stuck or the fuel valve is stuck open.

I have 3 or 4 sets of SU carbs that I would like to sell but am missing some parts. Anyone out there have a small stash of good, used SU floats, nozzles or needles? Can buy the nozzles and needles new, but trying to find good used ones. Can't find the floats. Any ideas or thoughts?

djwarner, did you tweak the adjustment screw on the back of the clock to slow the clock down? Seems like that should resolve your problem. I have had great luck cleaning up old clock mechanisms with appropriate cleaning solution, lubricating the swivel points, making sure the motor works and off she goes.

3 n 1 oil is about 20 wt oil, and cheap. Have used it for years.

Great guy, believed in the "pay it forward" concept by sending people parts they needed, sometimes without charging them postage or anything. I am the recipient of such kind actions by E. Sympathies to the family, he will be sorely missed.

I am doing the Honda motor upgrade and have taken everything apart to clean, lube, etc, and looking to put back together. Looking for a diagram showing how everything goes back together. I have searched and could not find anything. Help please! Thanks!!

Guess they made 6 of them, this one is the original number 1. Yes, it can be driven.

$4.2 million, looked really cool close up, as if the rocket launcher and other devices would really work!

Will be going to BJ tomorrow, but talked with a friend (big Datsun fanatic) that looked the car over on Sunday, he was not impressed with the mods or the overall condition of vehicle up close. I believe the seller should be content with what he got, if the condition is what my friend say. Will be interested to see it myself.

Yep, look for the blue tape!!

Was surprised to see that when you push the dome light cover to turn it on (with doors closed) the footwell lights come on, too! Surprise benefit.

Had a break in the line, got the dome light working. Also, installed some LED lights in the footwells, using the existing harness connections, can now see at night!!

Thanks, Steve, so if I get nothing than I have a break somewhere. Next, I can check from the fuse box to the 6 pin connector by the passenger kick panel, then from the 6 pin connector to the dome light, to pinpoint where it is located.

There have been some great posts on getting the dome light to work, but I haven't found one that addresses no power to the dome light. I bought new door switches and, before I reconnected the dome light harness, I checked the voltage on the positive connection on the main harness next to the side window (which should be on at all times). Nothing, no power. Assuming something is shorted or cut somewhere (fuse looks good). My gauge lights work fine, so does the map light. Is there a way to check the continuity on the positive lead from the dash to the dome light? If so, where would be a good spot up front to hook my lead up to from my meter to test continuity to my dome light positive lead? Thanks!

Picked clean, rare to find any Zs, much less early ones. Have a good visit!

Grose jets have been NLA for a number of years, you received the correct float bowl valve.

Mike, PM sent, thanks!

Am in need of the pivot piece on the original firewall throttle linkage that attaches to the 2 rods (one for gas pedal, the other to the carb linkage) for a 70 Z. I tried to modify mine and it didn't work out :tapemouth. Will try to fix mine but am hoping someone might have the part I need as a backup. Anyone? Thanks for looking!! Throttle Linkage.pdf

Thanks, guys, found out that it was a simple problem of a faulty brake switch. When I originally tested it, it showed power through the switch when the brakes were applied, so I thought that the problem was elsewhere. Tried the switch again, going through Beermanpete's steps, and found the brake switch was working on an intermittent basis. Bridged the wires to the brake switch and the brakes lit up like they were supposed to! New switch ordered from RockAuto. Problem solved! Thanks for all of your assistance!

Thanks, Beermanpete, good steps to follow!

Ok, checked the T/S switch, no issues there. Also, took apart the hazard switch and gave the contacts a good cleaning, now that works better. However, I am still finding my brake lights work with the T/S switch and the hazard switch but not as brake lights by themselves. If I had a broken wire or ground issue somewhere from the switches to the tail lights, wouldn't I be having problems with the brake lights working with the T/S and hazard switches?

Ok, brake lights used to work fine on my 70 240Z, then worked periodically and now don't work at all. Checked the brake switch, it works fine (used voltmeter to confirm power). Hazard lights work fine, with the brake lights going on and off with the other lights. So, brake switch and hazard switch work fine, does that mean my problem lies in the T/S switch? Based on what I pulled up in the archives, am thinking that is the case. Thoughts?