Duffman

I had my valve cover polished and the company broke the vent pipe that comes out the top, see pic below. I noticed there are 18 mm threads in the opening and figured someone must have figured a way to fix it. Any ideas?

Would think that Bruce at ZTherapy is best source to ask.

Will be interested in what you find, Stephen, as I am cleaning up a set of carbs and finding my back carb piston is moving much slower than the front one, and it doesn't seem to be due to piston/dome/needle/nozzle friction. It seems that the damper oil and the brass check valve combo works differently in one versus the other, just like in Stephen's #209 post above. Weird!!

Welcome, Bill, hope to see you down in the Phoenix area at the Pavilions, or other show, to see your car. It sounds great! Couple of clubs down here, if you are interested: Desert Datsuns (http://desertdatsuns.freeforums.org/index.php) and Desert Z Association (http://www.desertzassociation.com). Along with the fantastic Classic Z Car website, some local assistance if you are in need!

Randy, wondering if what I read to you from the 73 FSM had nothing to do with internal oiling of cam. Maybe we misinterpreted the description as being both (?). Did you go back and look at the 73 FSM just to make sure?

Thanks, Bruce.

Thanks, Dan, have been looking for that article, most helpful!

You are correct, Bruce, am looking for the speedo pinion gear with 21 teeth. Looks like I can get one from Courtesy Nissan in TX. Question: will I need a different housing for the 21 tooth pinion gear versus the 19 tooth pinion gear? Thought I read somewhere that I would need a larger housing.

Am in need of purple 21 tooth pinion gear, any recommendations? They are no longer made, I believe, so looking for good used source.

I agree with BeermanPete, seems fuel related. Under load, sounds like not getting enough fuel to carbs. Will be interesting to see what the issue is!

Beermanpete, I am not 100% sure, as I have been gettng varied readings at both locations. However, I do see a slightly higher reading when teed right after the fuel pump. I am installing a new mechanical pump as soon as I get a pump spacer this week to see if I have been having pump issues.

Beermanpete, I am not disagreeing with you, I am saying that having the fuel pressure gauge off of one of the carb lines does not accurately give the total pressure in the line. You have fuel running into the 2 carb lines and to the return line, if you only measure the pressure to one of the carbs, you are not measuring the pressure to the other carb and to the return line, somewhat incomplete. If you put the fuel pressure gauge right after the fuel pump, you know exactly what pressure it is exhibiting before it gets to the 2 carbs and the return line. I guess I am saying you might have different pressures in each carb line that would not give the accurate reading for the fuel pump itself. Hoping this makes sense.

Stephen (Kedyone), I am not sure you can get an accurate measure of fuel pressure by running the gauge off of one carb line or the other. I hooked mine up the same way and then realized that with the return line it would make more sense to hook it up right after the fuel pump to get the most accurate reading for both carbs. I had to modify my fuel rail to make the gauge fit after the fuel pump, but believe the reading should be more accurate.

Stephen, am getting around 3.4 to 4.0 on my mechanical fuel pump at idle, but have seen it drop to 2.1 at times. Am swapping out to a new mechanical fuel pump to see if I can get better consistency.

Yes, Mike, have run out of gas with the gauge showing just under 1/4 full reading on gauge. When I fill it up it goes to just above 3/4 full on the gauge.

Thanks, Pete, will check the back of the fuel gauge and see if there is a way to adjust it. Bending the arm on the fuel sender won't help me in both directions (more full or more empty), just one way or the other. Need to show full when full and empty when empty!

Going to piggy-back on this old thread. Have issues with fuel gauge reflecting a full tank at no more than 3/4 level and empty tank at no less than 1/4 full (short range!). Have new fuel sending unit and had this issue with prior fuel sending unit as well. Any thoughts to adjustments on the fuel sending unit to increase the range? Is this a fuel gauge issue? Most posts I have read talk about reading too high or too low, but mine registers in between! Any thoughts?

Am having similar problems with hard acceleration while driving fast. Believe that it is fuel issue; not enough fuel filling bowls at desired time causing a stutter or falter while under load. Check your fuel pressure for level and consistency and make sure your float bowl needles are good. I put a fuel pressure gauge in line to see how my levels are. Noticed that it ranges from 2 to 4 psi and is inconsistent and varies. Have ordered new mechanical pump to see if that helps with my problem.

Thanks, Bruce, will be interested to hear what you come back with!

Bump, any other thoughts on this?

Ok, sorry it took so long, but reset the floats to the 9/16" level, per Ztherapy video, and ran the car for a while at idle, with adjustment at 4 1/2 turns down. Looked into the nozzle to determine the fuel level and had difficulty seeing it. Pictures would not come out clear enough, but it looks like the fuel level is another 1/2" below the top of the nozzle (rough guess) at 4 1/2 turns down. Now, I am thinking 2 areas of concern would be the fuel pressure and the float bowl valves. The fuel pressure is running right around 3 psi, but starts at closer to 4 and can fall off to around 2 psi. Is it normal for the variation? I realize it is a mechanical fuel pump, but would have thought a more level consistency. Also, the float bowl valves could be sticking. They have been cleaned up but the rubber tips are just fair in quality. What else am I missing? Thanks!!

Thanks, Enrique, will try adjusting that screw. My concern is that the clock is running so fast, the minutes are like seconds and time is flying! I am hoping that screw is the one I misadjusted.

I have always prided myself on following Enrique's earlier directions on how to clean up and lube the clock to make it work, and actually achieving it! Was working fine for a couple of years, then stopped. Went back through this thread today and followed both Enrique's and Arne's suggestions on where to lube, etc, with sewing machine oil. Well, I must have the best oil out there, because once I put everything back together and connected it to power, my clock was spinning like a Disneyland clock; way too fast!!! My minute hand was spinning like it was in seconds! I have no idea what I might have done but am open to suggestions on how to slow it down!

Bruce, was thinking that the fuel level in the bowls was too low and have adjusted to fill more, thus raising the level in the nozzle and requiring less turns to gain the correct mixture of fuel and air. That was my intent. Will do as you say and reset floats to the 9/16 mark and report back on level in nozzle. These are borrowed carbs, mine have major vacuum leaks and waiting to send in for rebuild.

Gary, here are answers: 1. Yes, have reviewed the Ztherapy video multiple times. 2. I believe standard-sized needles, carbs are borrowed from friend 3. Yes, standard stock intake 4. No real mods, except electronic ignition 5. Car runs well when adjusted at 4 to 5 turns down