Duffman

Bruce, if it requires 4 to 5 turns down to run the best, where would you focus your attention? I have adjusted the float level multiple times and still am looking at 4 to 5 turns down for both carbs to run the best. Plugs look light brown. Crazy ...

Stephen, will be interested to see if you are able to read "full" and "empty" with your fuel gauge. Mine will not read above 3/4 full and less than 1/4 empty, with a new sender. Not sure what the problem is.

Thanks, everyone, appreciate the response! Thought I had screwed up something else!

I searched to see if I could find an answer but was unsuccessful. I removed my half shafts to have new Spicer u-joints installed. Was an easy removal, but I failed to mark the shafts to make sure I reinstalled them at the same location on each side. Is there any special way that they install? Will I be able to tell how they line up without marking them prior? Wish I had paid better attention to this, but I did not!

91 Honda CRX seats, recovered and hole in headrest filled in. Very comfortable and provides good support to back and thighs. Removed CRX bracket and attached to Z bracket with help from spacers and 2 1 1/2" flat bar to attach to Z floor

Looks good, Mike, but am in need of a return line to the tank. Am using the SUs and am looking for a round trip fuel line circuit. Was hoping for something that would route the fuel from the mechanical fuel pump to the carbs and then back to the tank. Your setup looks great with your triples! Interesting setup, Blue, in the MG.

Good point, Julio, am looking for something better, if possible!

Blue, would be nice to have both source and return lines in one unit, instead of 2 separate lines. Would be a nice clean look!

Am looking for ideas for an improved fuel rail for my carb set up, one that looks cleaner and may have fewer touch points on the engine to heat up the fuel. Any ideas or thoughts? Thanks!

Good point, Arne, shouldn't be too tough to plumb the pipe through a lower opening. Might need to modify opening as well.

Bruce, this may be what you are talking about: http://shop.uniquezproducts.com/Cold-Air-Intake-Kit-Datsun-240z-260z-70-75-1300.htm Am thinking of getting one myself!

Looks good, Carl, Dashboard Restorations did mine a few years back as well, still looking new!

Enrique, where is the right door lead?

Glenn, check out my thread, had similar symptoms. Try some of my fuel line tests, worked for me! http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?43424-Electrical-Issue

UPDATE: Well, problem solved! After having the distributor checked out and cleaned up, I realized the distributor was not the problem. But I did improve my electrical lines, added a ground, etc, which had to make it work better! Realizing it was back to a fuel issue, I ran my mechanical fuel pump off a can of gas thru a clear hose and saw good fuel pressure and no "flutter" on hard revving. Then, I ran the same setup from the hard line from the gas tank and saw the same thing. Thinking it had to be the gas tank, I then ran the clear hose from the gas tank to the hard fuel line. Again, ran great, no air bubbles, no problems! So, I deducted that it had to be the hose (or connections) from the gas tank to the hard fuel lines. The hose was a fuel injection rated hose, fairly new, and visually looked fine. The only thing I could see was that the hose was splitting when squeezing the ends. So, I picked up a fuel rated hose and replaced it and my fuel pressure runs up to 4 psi, I get no "flutter" under hard acceleration and she runs like a top! Sometimes, dogged determination wins out over limited intelligence!! Appreciate everyone's thoughts and opinions!

Interesting, thanks Pete.

Good point, Pete. Am afraid that it will be the same problem you have, due to my having the tank boiled recently and the pick-up tube being a good possibility. Am hoping for something easier to find, however! Have noticed a wide variety of fuel pressure readings; from 1.5 to 3.5 psi, at different times of running the engine. Would think that the psi should register a consistent number once it is up to pressure. Mechanical fuel pump visually looks pretty good; top diaphragm is intact, no leaks anywhere. Was a rebuild from about 4,000 miles ago, not much use. Still thinking the pickup tube in the tank. How did you fix yours, Pete?

Thanks, Pete, good stuff!

Forgot to say that the fuel pressure gauge was bouncing around when car started (between 3 to 4 psi) before settling somewhere between 2.5 to 3.5 psi. Thinking air is getting in line somewhere causing the number to change. Also, picking up slight whistling sound when I just start car, goes from low to high, then seems to disappear or not as noticeable. Will try to pinpoint where that sound comes from.

Ok, looks like distributor is fine. Back to fuel delivery as the most likely culprit! Had the tank taken out and boiled a few months back, could have an air leak in one of my pipes in/out of my tank (?). I realize that I need to check the mechanical fuel pump, the fuel lines between the tank and pump, and the tank itself. Any thoughts on the best way to review each? Not sure if you can determine a leaky fuel pump easily. Figured to do a visual check of fuel lines back to tank. May have to remove the in/out line from the tank, requiring some welding/unwelding to remove. Any other thoughts/

Leon, will follow up on your suggestions tomorrow, with some assistance from a sharper mind than mine when it comes to ignition advance issues!

Leon, no haven't tried that, but did replace the E12-80 module. Coil runs warm, as expected, but does not run unbelievably hot.

Randy, I have a newer alternator with internal regulator versus the old style external regulator. Not sure if that might be it, but is possible. Interesting point, Enrique, I have checked the vacuum advance and it seems to work, but have received advice that it could still be the advance that is screwing things up. Have someone looking at the distributor this weekend to determine if that is the problem, will let you know!

Removed the banjo screens in each float bowl already, as they were torn. I had issues with the front carb float bowl valve sticking, but replaced it. Adjusted the floats and checked fuel levels in each when I completed my test drives, both level.

When I floored it, the engine bogs down/misses and lightly pings, does not pick back up. Checked both float levels, adjusted/synced as well as all other aspects of carbs. Fuel pressure has been consistent with idle and when engine revved or held at high rpms. Played with choke while driving and didn't help the situation by pulling on it to different levels. Could I have any issues with my distributor causing everything to be out of balance?